CHAPTER I.

NOTES OF A TOUR IN IRELAND.

On the 25th of May, 1822, I left London for Liverpool. In the journey to the latter place nothing occurred worthy of notice: some quarrelling, indeed, happened at every stage where we changed coachman or guard; this was caused by a north‐country captain, who would never give more than sixpence, which was considerably under the perquisite expected, I had almost said demanded, on such occasions. The captain stated frankly, that “times were very bad, and as ships now made nothing, he neither could nor would give any more.” This declaration, however candid and sincere, was neither received nor answered in the most courteous manner, by the coach servants, who took no pains to disguise their disappointment. Their insolence was met and repelled by the hardy captain, whose language, to do him justice, contained but little of politeness or compliment. At several places where we stopped, the peace was preserved only by the shortness of our stay.

It may here be observed that this custom is an imposition which should not be encouraged: every traveller has found it inconvenient. It would be much better were coach‐proprietors to pay their own servants, and include p. 146 the amount of their perquisites in the passage‐money. It frequently happens that one passenger gives more than his fellow‐travellers can afford, and these are always obliged to make up the deficiency by enduring much insolence and vulgar abuse, against which the peaceable passenger has no protection. At half‐past eight, in the evening of the 26th, the coach arrived in Liverpool, and stopped at the Saracen’s Head, where I took up my abode for the night.

Having ordered tea, I sat down at a table where a Spanish gentleman was descanting on the beauty and excellence of the docks, which he appeared to have spent the greater part of the day in examining. As soon as he had disposed of this subject, he spoke of the mode of living in this country, with which he was by no means so well pleased as he had been with the docks. He expressed a particular dislike to the butter with which his muffins had been dressed, and inquired of the waiter, in language barely intelligible, whether he was not ashamed of it? To this interrogatory the waiter boldly answered in the negative, and declared his conviction that there was not better butter in England, nor the world. The Spaniard’s dissatisfaction did not appear at all lessened by this assurance. The next thing he complained of was the prices, which he swore were “infamy in every part of English.” The waiter entertained a different opinion, and was very free in expressing it. Being overpowered with sleep, I went to bed, leaving them to argue the point.

27th. I arose at seven, breakfasted at eight, and went to Pickford’s canal‐office to get some baggage; but found that, owing to some mistake, it had not arrived as I expected, though it had been entered in the office in London on the 14th: the agent, however, promised to use every p. 147 endeavour to get it down, and forward it to Dublin by the earliest opportunity. The “Mountaineer,” steam‐packet, was advertised to sail at six in the evening, and at that hour I repaired on board.

Many passengers had already arrived, and many more were seen coming: at half past six, the lashings were cast off, and we departed. The wind was fair down the Mersey, but when we hauled up to cross the channel, it was directly in our teeth, and blew a pretty fresh breeze. There was a good deal of motion, and more sea‐sickness than I ever before witnessed. Males and females were jumbled together in the same cabin; basins were in constant requisisitionrequisition; “Steward! Steward!” sounded and re‐echoed from every corner, mingled with moans and most piteous ejaculations: the motion rather increased than diminished, and confusion reigned throughout.

28th. About noon we entered the Bay of Dublin, the country around which exhibits a degree of beauty and magnificence, little, if at all, inferior to the delightful scenery of Naples. At 1 a. m., abreast of the Pigeon‐House; and as it happened to be nearly low‐water, the vessel could get no further. Several large, clumsy boats came off, for the purpose of landing the passengers; and never before did I see boats so badly managed. One of them got entangled under the wheel of the steam‐engine, where it was likely to be knocked to pieces; yet not the least assistance was offered by any of the men in the other boats; on the contrary, they laughed very heartily at the accident.

The place where we landed was crowded with creatures, of whom it would be difficult to give a correct description. Their dress, or, more properly speaking, their undress, together with their emaciated, haggard looks, was well calculated p. 148 to awaken feelings of commiseration. Most of them were without shoes, stockings, or coats; and many of them carried, rather than wore, garments composed of innumerable patches, exhibiting almost every variety of colour: it was utterly impossible to say what had been the original. They were all eager to carry our luggage up to the place where it was to be examined.

The examination, which was a mere matter of form, was conducted in a small room filled by persons of all descriptions and sexes, each of whom struggled to get done first. The head‐porter demanded five‐pence for every trunk or box of moderate size, and two‐pence for every small parcel. It is a rule of mine, never to submit to imposition willingly, no matter by what authority or length of time it may be sanctioned; in this case, when the demand was made, I asked, “For what?” The fellow answered my question by asking in turn, “Don’t you see every body gives it?” I told him I should certainly give him nothing, until I knew what service he had performed for me: he did not urge the demand, but was very abusive.

A great number of vehicles called jaunting‐cars, collected at the Pigeon‐House, to convey passengers and their luggage to Dublin. Jaunting cars have often been described, but the horses that draw them have generally put all descriptive attempts at defiance; and those I saw to‐day were truly nondescript. If one of them were taken to London, it might, with very little puffing, be exhibited with as much success as attended the Bonassus some months ago.

A gentleman and his wife, who, like myself, did not much admire travelling through the streets of Dublin on such machines, engaged a man to fetch two coaches, for which service he asked only a shilling, which we agreed to give him. After waiting an hour and a half, we saw him and them p. 149 coming slowly along, and presently they all stopped at a public‐house, where each of the coachmen was to treat the messenger for the preference he had given their coaches. While anxiously waiting their arrival, our attention was attracted by an old beggar‐woman, standing at a distance from any one, abusing and swearing at—we could not imagine whom. She came towards us, and we learned that she was venting her spleen against the gentlemen of Connaught, for not maintaining their beggars. “There are seventy of them,” said she, “just now goin to Inglind to get the faiver and aigy; and when they come back, to be hanged. I am goin to Liverpool, too, but I wouldn’t take a crown to go in a ship with the Connaught beggars.”

The coaches at length arrived, and our thirsty messenger demanded half a crown, though he had agreed for a shilling. Other persons, whom we never before had seen, demanded “something for their trouble,” and behaved very insolently when their demands were rejected. I got away from this place with the loss of my travelling‐cap only. We arrived at Morrison’s hotel about half‐past three.

As my visit to Ireland is purely with a view to inquire into some of the evils, both moral and physical, under which, unhappily, it has too long been permitted to labour, I shall not waste my own or my reader’s time by attempting to depict the scenery of every place through which I may have occasion to pass. I am fully conscious that such a task requires a fertility of imagination, and a depth of talent to which I have no claim. But even could I indulge a hope of success in the attempt, such details would swell this volume greatly beyond the limits which it has been found necessary to prescribe. My humble aim is simply to record every circumstance which may fall under notice, that can p. 150 tend to illustrate the great question I have ventured to discuss.

The knowledge I formerly had of Dublin had never been very extensive or particular, but many valuable improvements have evidently been made within my own recollection: of these the elegant quays, formed of fine hammered granite, erected along the Liffey, confining that river, in its course through the city, within certain limits, are not the least important or useful. The inconvenience formerly experienced from deposits of animal and vegetable matter, when the tide flowed over a much more extensive surface than at present, is entirely removed. The streets, too, appeared much better paved, and cleaner than in former years.

On the score of cleanliness, however, many parts of the city, which I visited, are miserably deficient. The disgusting filthiness of Patrick Street could not, I am positive, be surpassed in the worst parts of Lisbon or Constantinople. This part of Dublin, I am informed, has long been notorious for wanton extravagance as well as dirt, even since the days of Swift: a butcher’s wife is often seen to issue from a house that has not perhaps a whole window, dressed in laces and other finery of some hundred pounds value.

Barrack Street may also be mentioned as exhibiting a degree of depravity and consequent wretchedness, scarcely to be met with any where else. This street is situated just below the barrack, and is filled with public houses, which are constantly frequented by soldiers and unfortunate females in the lowest state of degradation. I have seen some of these wretched outcasts running about furiously intoxicated, and in a state very nearly approaching to nudity!

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The country, for six or eight miles around the metropolis, is beautifully diversified with gentlemen’s seats, the gardens and grounds of which generally display a considerable share of taste. Lucan, a delightful village six miles from town, is celebrated for a spring strongly impregnated with sulphur; its medicinal qualities are differently estimated by different persons as they have happened to get better or worse during its use. Rents are high in this county, though the land is by no means of a superior quality. The natural defects of the soil, however, are often compensated by manuring, and a superior method of cultivation. Wheat, hay, and potatoes, are the principal productions; a very small proportion of oats is raised, and scarcely any flax. Limestone is very abundant, and as it enters into the composition of the soil in most parts of this county, it is seldom used as manure.1

6th June. In company with Drs. Harty and Gamble, I visited some of the prisons, of which I shall submit a brief sketch. It will seldom fall to any one’s lot to see a worse gaol than the Dublin Newgate, which is badly situated, badly constructed, and badly managed. In space, classification, inspection, education, and employment, it is eminently deficient. The manners of its inmates, particularly the females, are distinguished by horrific ferocity. The most that can be said in its favour is, that it is kept as clean as circumstances will permit.

The City Marshalsea exhibits a crowded picture of human wretchedness, reflecting disgrace on the callous‐hearted individuals who have the power, but want the humanity, to p. 152 meliorate its condition. Dr. Harty says, “the Sheriff’s prison is, in many respects, a more filthy and noxious prison than either of the former; it consists of twenty‐five lodging apartments, each about twelve feet square, containing generally from three to ten inmates!!” I am unable to say which of these wretched prisons is the worst.

Smithfield Penitentiary, although injudiciously constructed, is a creditable institution; industry, and its moral attendant, good order, are observable in every part of it. Boys and girls are here taught useful trades, by the exercise of which it is hoped many of them will in future be able to gain an honest livelihood. The new Bridewell is a very valuable institution, though a much more commodious building might have been erected for less money than has been expended on this. Education and employment experience that care and encouragement their importance merits, and there is every reason to hope that their results will be happy.

7th. At six this morning, I left Dublin. The weather being fine, I preferred travelling outside on the coach, which enabled me to see something of the surface of the country. There happened to be a quaker gentleman, Mr. J. Christy, going by the same coach; on getting into conversation with him, he proved exceedingly well‐informed.

The long want of rain is severely felt and regretted by the farmers. The dry and parched state of the corn‐fields plainly shews that the process of vegetation is every where impeded, and in many places almost suspended. Several small parties are employed in planting potatoes; they are principally poor persons who, having worked for the large farmers while they had any thing to do, are now at liberty to work for themselves; but the lateness of the season must p. 153 naturally cause their labour thus directed to produce nothing but weak and defective crops.

It is painfully interesting to witness the manner in which that wretched class of the Irish peasantry, denominated cotters, toil to cultivate the little patch of ground set apart for family support. In front of the cabin, and close to the walls on each side of the door, is a pit for the collection of manure, consisting of dung and filth of every kind, accumulated throughout the winter and spring. When the season arrives for its removal to the potatoe plot, the man is seen up to his ankles, and sometimes nearly to his knees in sludge, scraping up matter, both animal and vegetable, in a state of semi‐decomposition, partly in a fluid state, which is called gullion. This he fills, heedless of the effluvia, into a square wicker basket, called a kreel, (the interstices being clogged to prevent the contents from running out,) which he carries on his back to the “garden,” where his wife is employed in spreading this stuff on the ground with her hands, while some of the children, of whom there is seldom any scarcity, are employed in depositing the seed potatoes on the beds. A certain quantity of ground being thus prepared, the man sets about to cover in the ridges, in which he is often assisted by his wife, but more frequently she goes home to prepare the dinner, which is simply boiling a few potatoes. When boiled, the potatoes are turned into a basket; the pot is placed in the middle of the floor, and is the table on which the feast is placed. There is generally a stool or two, or, in better circumstances, perhaps a chair and a stool for the father and mother; the children either stand or sit on the floor.

As I travel to the northward the quality of the land improves. The soil of Meath is said to be as good as that of p. 154 any county in Ireland. Its eastern side is washed by the sea, between the Nanny‐water and the Boyne, an extent of nearly ten miles. A small portion only of this county can be called waste land, there being little mountain, and scarcely bog enough to supply the necessary fuel: coal is principally used by the gentry. Extensive tracts are set apart for grazing; but great quantities of wheat are raised: the heaviest grain in the kingdom is said to be raised here.2

Between Drogheda and Dundalk I noticed five children running about completely naked, and a great many others very nearly so; the weather was unusually hot, which seemed providentially favourable to the circumstances of these rustic cupids. The cabins, as they fell under observation, although not admitting of any thing like an idea of comfort, were greatly superior to many I had formerly seen in other parts of the country; most of these had chimneys, and some even were provided with two windows. The appearance of the peasantry differed but little from what it was twenty‐five years ago. About seven in the evening I arrived at Armagh.

Lime appears to form the principal geological feature of the country between Dublin and Armagh; that is, limestone forms the substratum of the greater part of that district. Here and there grey‐wacke alternating with amorphous blocks of basalt, is observable; and occasionally there are traces of serpentine. Between Dundalk and Armagh, clay‐slate is met with; but it appears to enter sparingly into the materials of which the north of Ireland is composed. Around Armagh a reddish coloured p. 155 stone exists, I believe in considerable quantity, to which the name of marble is given.

On the morning of the 8th, I got a very good post‐chaise to convey me to Blackwater town, a distance of four miles;—the country both beautiful and rich: about halfway there are two bleach greens, one on each side of the road, which give a pleasing diversity to the scenery. I breakfasted with my brother, who supplied me with a saddle‐horse, and accompanied me in a short excursion into Tyrone3, where the country exhibited a different aspect. The quality of the land is very inferior to that of Armagh, Louth, Meath, or Dublin. The farms are less, the tenants poor, and their mode of farming more contracted, almost despicable.

There is not, I believe, one in seventy of the tenants in this county who can individually set a plough going on a farm; by far the greater number have only one horse, which is lent to a neighbour for a certain number of days, who lends his in return for the same length of time. Those who have land, but no horse, and there are a great many such, get their land ploughed at the end of the season, for which they pay by labour. But it is not always they can obtain that accommodation. I have often seen poor people, men, women, and children, dig up their ground in order to keep pace with the season, and endeavour to break it with a three‐pronged fork, called a grape, and an iron rake, such as is used by gardeners: nothing but wretched crops can be expected to result from such a mode of culture.

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9th. While travelling through the country, visiting the humble dwellings of the peasantry, I called at the house of a man who had formerly been in easy circumstances, and was still respectable, because his integrity stood unimpeached. In the parlour of this once opulent individual, there was a window which particularly attracted my notice, and induced me to make a note of it on the spot. The window‐frame had been made for nine panes of glass, and I remember when it had them; at present there was only one; the other eight were glazed in the following manner. The glass pane was in the left corner of the uppermost row; through the others of the same row two old hats were thrust; immediately below the glass pane was inserted another hat, which, as it wanted the crown, had from the outside some resemblance to the mouth of a cannon, the other two were filled with straw. In the right corner of the lower tier a quarto edition of Lyttleton’s Latin Dictionary was fitted, and the remaining two were perfectly covered by a wooden bowl of a large size. This grotesque description may excite a smile,—on me it had a very different effect. The dictionary belonged to a young man who had been my companion and school‐fellow in early life. I had seen him use it a thousand times. I had often used it myself. It is now rotten, and can be consulted no more.

Just as I was leaving this house, a man, comfortably dressed, came in with a bundle strapped on his back, somewhat in the way that soldiers fix on their knapsacks. He entered freely into conversation with the proprietor of the house, to whom he appeared desirous of selling a part of his burden, which he termed “the right sort.” I inquired what that meant, and was answered,—“A little of the best potteen you ever tasted in your life;—would you like to try it?” I declined this civil offer, and asked how he p. 157 came by it, to which he fearlessly answered, “I make it myself: you may depend on it.” I expressed some surprise that he was not afraid to carry it openly through the country, without a licence; he replied with a contemptuous nod, “Pshat, man, who am I afeard of,—am n’t I a tenant of Sir John’s,—who durst mislist me?” I desired to know, whether, being a tenant of Sir John’s gave him a right to break the laws of the country? He appeared to consider this question quite undeserving of an answer; and shaking his head knowingly, he ejaculated, “Lord help you, you know little about it.”

Whether “Sir John” would have extended to this man the protection on which he reckoned with so much confidence, merely because he was a tenant, I will not hazard an opinion; but of this I am quite certain, that the man himself had not a doubt of it, and that the whole neighbourhood believed it also: and if the worthy Baronet is not in the habit of befriending his tenants in that way, he has the credit of being a more indulgent landlord than he really is; for in this respect his character stands very high. How far poor ignorant men are likely to be benefited by a system, the very essence of which is to establish habits of idleness and dissipation, and to defy the laws of the land, I leave others to determine, who are better qualified to judge of such things than I am.

10th. Dined at the house of a relation, and met many old acquaintances, all of whom are in worse circumstances had I than formerly known them, one only excepted. This one, by unwearied industry and great prudence, had increased his fortune considerably, while all the others had as greatly diminished theirs. The times had changed them more than time itself. The following day I returned to Blackwater town.

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16th. The last few days were spent in riding through the county of Armagh, and the excursion afforded me much satisfaction. The humblest cottages have a superior degree of neatness, and convey an idea of comfort beyond what is commonly found even in those of a higher order in Tyrone. Many of the labouring poor in Armagh have shoes and stockings; indeed the condition of the peasantry seems to be much improved, and they appear much more intelligent than the generality of their neighbours. The face of the country is diversified with hill and dale; it is also well wooded, abounds in orchards, and is highly cultivated; it may justly be called the garden of Ireland.4

On the 17th I rode into the county of Monaghan, and saw many of the poor peasants employed in planting potatoes. One had his ground prepared and the manure spread three weeks, but was unable to procure seed. This man had been ill during the spring; his little all was soon exhausted; starvation stared him in the face, and in order to eke out a weary existence, his wife and seven children “took the country,”—they went to beg. This poor creature called Heaven to witness that he had eaten nothing but dry potatoes for nine weeks, and could not get a sufficiency even of them: his looks too strongly bore testimony to the fact. At the door of another cabin a woman and three children were crying bitterly; on asking the cause, a little girl answered, “the rid cow and wee stirk (meaning the red cow and little heifer) is gone to jail, and my father is gone with them.” The labours of this family had failed to satisfy the demands of the landlord, who, by p. 159 the by, was a middle‐man, and for this their cow and calf, the former the support of the family, were driven away and canted.5

During my ride I overtook a farmer near the town of Monaghan, a Mr. Anderson, who, I found, had travelled through a great part of America, in quest of a spot to settle on with his family. His ancestors, he said, had a farm of forty‐five acres near Monaghan, time immemorial; they had paid the rent regularly, and he himself had done the same. When his lease expired, and he went to get it renewed, he was informed that Lord R—— wished to take the farm, and had offered a much higher rent than Anderson had paid, or than he thought it was worth. It was intimated that Lord R—— wanted to convert the farm into a park; and his lordship obtained a lease of it accordingly. “So far,” said Mr. Anderson, “I could not complain, but that very year his lordship granted a lease of my farm to another person, at a profit rent.” This last sentence will be rendered intelligible to the reader, when he hears that Lord R—— is nephew to the present proprietor, and that at her death the estates will devolve to him. Whether the statement be true or false, I had no opportunity of inquiring; for the honour of the country, and of human nature, I am unwilling to believe it.

19th. This day I returned to Tyrone, and visited the town of Caledon, which I was much pleased to find greatly improved. The noble earl of that name resides a considerable portion of every year upon his estate, and has lately directed his attention to the improvement of the town. Several new buildings are now in progress, which are designed both for use and ornament. Under his lordship’s p. 160 auspices, school‐houses have been erected, and schools established, from which much good may be expected. These humble institutions are the more valuable, and the views of his lordship more praiseworthy, as the peasantry, though miserably poor, are remarkable for shrewd and ready talent, which, even without education, cannot be kept in a state of inaction. The tenants on his lordship’s estates complain that their rents are too high for the quality of the land. It does not appear that any abatement of rent has been made since the peace; reflections on this point, however, I shall reserve for another opportunity. The character of Lady Caledon stands eminently bright amidst the misery of this district. I have not seen a poor person in the neighbourhood who did not gratefully acknowledge, and heartily eulogise, the sympathy with which her ladyship entered into their distress, and the benevolence that gave them consolation and relief.

21st. I visited the village of Aughnacloy, which I was sorry to see declining rather than improving. It, too, has felt the “times.” It was a flourishing little town about twenty years ago; poverty and wretchedness are now its distinguishing features. Thence I proceeded to the town of Balligawly, and the improvement thereabouts is considerable under the immediate care of its proprietor, Sir John Stewart; but there is still great room for improvement, beyond the skill necessary for meliorating the surface of the soil; human beings are there, a prouder concern for a benevolent and wise landlord, than the paltry benefits directly arising from houses and farms ever so numerously multiplied.

Thence I proceeded through an isolated district called the Truagh, which is properly the Connemara of Ulster. The description given from Spencer, page 56 applies p. 161 originally to this quarter;—here still are seen the reliquiæ of that wasteful period. I had often travelled through this wild district when a boy, and although pretty well acquainted with the manners, customs, and genius of its inhabitants, I must acknowledge my inability to give any thing like a correct sketch of them. In such a picture many of the vices and virtues, many of the brightest as well as darkest shades which characterise both civil and savage man, would appear contrasted. The eye glistening with grateful sensibility at the sounds of condolence, lights up the furrowed feature with intelligence; but that divine expression of an innate gem is suddenly clouded with a recollection of debasement, and the grief that all talent in that state is as dross, settles round the heart, and fastens there in a perpetual gloom. For kindness, generosity, and bravery; capability of undergoing excessive privation without complaint; quickness of apprehension, and charity to strangers,—often sharing their last potatoe with those whom they never knew till then,—all these they have from a bountiful Providence, who has stamped many such valuable qualities of social life upon their unsophisticated, unenlightened nature; to that they owe every thing that makes their state comparatively happy,—to man they are indebted for nothing but their vices. With minds wholly uncultivated, who can wonder that their good qualities are so seldom developed, or rendered useful? Treated, as they have always been, with more than neglect, can any one be surprised, however he may lament the fact, that they associate themselves in mutual dread of aggression, the result of ignorance and traditionary terror, and form clans and parties, out of which issue outrageous broils, aggravated by little enmities, and rendered doubly demoralizing by intoxication, the mischievous materials for which are p. 162 everywhere at hand? It were well if these petty disputes among themselves went no further; but they afterwards, in appealing to justice, indulge in the utmost asperity of recrimination, and too frequently is the sanctity of an oath disregarded, when the resentment of the moment is at its height.

Almost every cabin is decorated with a pit before the door, for the reception of the sweepings of the house, and every sort of filth, which, from the rains, and the foul water of washing and other domestic uses, is generally in a half‐fluid state throughout the winter, and emits an intolerable exhalation in the summer. Access to the house is sometimes facilitated by forming a causeway of large stones, set apart, from the door to a landing‐place clear of the gullion. Chimneys and windows are very little used; the fire is always made on the ground, and generally at one or other end of the house, rarely in the middle of the floor.

22d. In my ride this day, happening to be thirsty, I alighted at one of these cabins, and asked for a noggin6 of water; but receiving no answer, I approached the entrance, which had neither door nor any thing like one. A large thorn bush was placed in the opening, and was confined in its position by a heavy stone. There were voices within, but no one was to be seen. On removing the thorn I walked in, and found two children about three or four years old, without any clothing but a short shirt each, playing on the floor: there were also two young pigs in the opposite corner. The father and mother, I learned, had gone to the moss (the usual term in the north for bog), p. 163 and left the two youngest of their children at home. On examining more closely, I found that the poor babes were prevented from getting to the fire by a cord with which each of them was tied by one leg to the post of a bed that stood in the corner. The pigs were secured in the same way, at a sufficient distance from the children; perhaps to prevent them from having any disputes.

Many of the cotters hereabouts are planting potatoes, notwithstanding the very advanced state of the season. Farms here are small; the land cold and ungrateful, and the state of husbandry the very worst that can be imagined.

23d. Returning from Ballygawly, I visited the town of Dungannon, which has a good linen market. Sessions are held here twice a year, at which an assistant barrister presides. Under the Sessions‐house is a gaol, which may be said to be partly underground. This receptacle may boast of every inconvenience that can possibly attend the very worst constructed prisons. So far is classification from being observed, there is no possibility of separating the male from the female prisoners. In the construction of the cells, light and ventilation appear to have been thought unnecessary. These damp and wretched dungeons are ten feet by eight, and are intended for the lodgment of six prisoners each; but I am assured that seventeen persons have been crammed into one of them.

It would really appear that the propagation of crime was alone held in view by the constructors of this prison. The pernicious consequences of having men and women mingled indiscriminately, are too obvious to need illustration or argument,—the fact itself is argument. It will, perhaps, be with difficulty believed, that a prison exists in which there is no water‐closet, nor any such convenience; here that want is disgustingly manifest. In a corner of the p. 164 yard, indeed, exactly opposite the kitchen‐door, two low walls were formerly built, over which a stick was placed, to which all the prisoners (of both sexes) were obliged to resort; but now, even that convenience, if such it could be called, no longer exists. The stick became rotten, and the prisoners have been left to languish without any consideration of the violence their feelings must every hour sustain.

There is neither well nor pump in the prison of Dungannon. Fortunately, the prisoners are transferred to Omagh gaol on the first day of every month; but I hardly know a greater punishment than that of keeping a human being in such a place even for a month. It is but justice to say, and the avowal gives pleasure, that the walls are white‐washed, the cells and bedding kept clean, and the gaoler appears to discharge his duty with as much humanity and attention as the nature of the prison will admit.

Hence I proceeded to Moy, a pretty little village on the left bank of the Blackwater, and verging on the county of Tyrone. Society here is very respectable; most of the persons of whom it is composed, are liberal and well‐informed. On the opposite bank of the river is the fortified town of Charlemont. It has an ill‐attended market on Saturdays, which has long been celebrated for bad beef. I remember, many years ago, a poor man named Harpur, whose cow died of some lingering disease; he skinned his old friend himself, and actually sold her in Charlemont to some of the commissariat stationed at that place. Such frauds are considered venial. The country from Dungannon to Charlemont is exceedingly well cultivated; the soil is a mixture of rich vegetable mould and fine sand of a reddish colour, which is given probably from oxyde of iron; the substratum appears to be clay and sandstone p. 165 principally, with thick beds of gravel occasionally intervening.

25th. Visited the gaol of Armagh in company with my friend Doctor Johnson. This edifice is situated at the extremity of the town, and consists of three stories; a considerable addition has been made to it during the last twelve months, by which it has certainly been much improved, but it is still deficient in many essential points; of these, classification and inspection, particularly the latter, are among the most conspicuous. The plan was originally bad, and no alteration can make it good, except taking it down entirely, and re‐constructing it, but of this little hope can be at present entertained. There are six yards7 for the prisoners to exercise in at particular times of the day; but, during those periods, they are in a great measure concealed from the view of the gaoler and his assistants. Two felons under sentence of transportation effected their escape a few weeks ago. In this prison the males are separated from the females.

In each sleeping cell there are two iron bedsteads, and two prisoners usually sleep in each. There were two women spinning, and another expressed an earnest wish to be furnished with a wheel and flax, that she might be employed also. One of those unfortunate creatures asked for charity, and her manner was more modest, and less importunate than I have been accustomed to notice in females similarly circumstanced. One of them shewed me a letter she had just received from her husband, a convict p. 166 on board the Mangles, lying at Cork, and about to proceed to New South Wales. The letter was signed Arthur M‘Cann; in it he desired his wife “to wait patiently till the end of her sentence, but when she gets out, to be sure not to leave Armagh without committing a crime that will ensure her to be sent after him.” I asked this woman whether she intended to follow his advice, to which she replied in the negative, but stated at the same time, she certainly would were it not for two children, from whom she could not think of being separated. Finding that I had been in New South Wales, she inquired eagerly whether her children would be permitted to go with her: I evaded the question, and endeavoured to impress on her mind a correct idea of the deplorable situation of unfortunate females in that country, of which she appeared sensible; but there were several of her companions who appeared very anxious to be sent thither.

A most laudable effort was made some time since to introduce employment, and five looms were erected; but unfortunately three of them were obliged to be taken down, that the prisoners’ food might be cooked according to a late act of parliament. Several females have been taught to work at their needle, as well as to read the Scriptures. A school has been established for the male prisoners of all descriptions, which has proved most successful; nothing in the concerns of this mansion of misery affords more gratification than its result. A great many who were ignorant of the alphabet have been taught to read, write, and cipher, some of whom are stated to be near eighty years of age. The dietary rule is seven pounds of potatoes, a pint of new milk, and a pound of best bread a day, with a sufficient quantity of salt, for each individual.

Ye wise and good, who now legislate for Ireland, p. 167 compare the gaol of Armagh with the cottages of the peasantry!

A very elegant court‐house was erected a few years since, but it stands a considerable distance from the gaol, which must be productive of much inconvenience, particularly during the assizes.

At half‐past twelve, a few minutes after Dr. Johnson and I left the gaol, we observed several soldiers of the 31st regiment, and some yeomanry, escorting a number of plain, country‐looking men to the prison, whither we immediately followed them. We learned that special information had been received by the lord‐lieutenant of an intended meeting of conspirators in a certain public house in Armagh, on the market day, and that his excellency issued a warrant for their apprehension. This document, it was said, contained the names of seventeen persons; but fourteen only were secured, the others not having arrived, or made their escape in the confusion that ensued. They all appeared to be men of low condition, from whom no serious mischief against the state could be reasonably entertained. There were some papers found among them, the contents of which were kept secret. It is not, however, very probable, that beings of such mean condition would be intrusted with documents of much consequence to any party.

The incident gave rise to numerous and very opposite opinions, some of which were delivered with a degree of self‐importance and seeming mystery that would lead one to suppose that something dreadful was about to happen: others with equal confidence asserted, that “the egg was hatched at the castle of Dublin, and that the farce was got up for no other purpose than to keep the Armagh militia on permanent pay.” The probability is that neither of the parties, whose opinion was thus confidently expressed, p. 168 knew any thing at all of the real cause of the proceeding.

About nine in the evening of this day, a riot took place which appeared to originate in party‐spirit; there were a great many engaged. The constables were not to be found, and had it not been for the prompt interference of the military, the quarrel might have assumed a serious aspect. The principal in the affray was secured and lodged in the gaol. This fellow thought proper to proclaim himself a Protestant, though it is probable he was influenced but little by the principles of that or any other religion, else he would not so readily have broken the peace. Some of the combatants continued to patrol the streets till a late hour, and seemed very anxious to find “ribbon‐men” to fight with. About half‐past ten, I met a party of about 30, several of whom wore red coats; they stopped me, and rudely demanded whether I was a ribbon‐man; but being answered in the negative, they permitted me to proceed, saying at the same time, “It is d——d well for you that you are not.”

26th. I left Armagh this morning in the Belfast coach, and arrived in Lurgan at 9 a. m. Of the fertility and beauty of Armagh county, a brief sketch has been already attempted. There is much picturesque and beautiful scenery in the neighbourhood of Lurgan,—a town deservedly celebrated for its hospitality. The soil appears to be alluvial. In two or three places I observed that the substratum consisted of lime‐stone, and in others of siliceous slate. At Lurgan I got a chaise, and proceeded on the Dromore road, some parts of which command fine views of the counties of Armagh and Down. Paid a visit to Mr. James Christy, of Kirkessick, (a member of the Society of Friends,) who has the reputation of being the p. 169 best farmer in Ulster. I had the good fortune to find him at home, and he most obligingly showed me over his farm: he pointed out many improvements which he has made, and described others which he has in contemplation.

The farm consists of 121 acres, most of it in the highest degree of cultivation. I never saw finer wheat in any country, and yet he assured me that a large portion of the ground was originally a useless swamp, but that by draining and manuring he brought it to what it then appeared. On every subject connected with the state of the country, his opinions were energetic, clear, and liberal. In the course of the evening, he illustrated some of his views by anecdotes, which tended to impress the subject more strongly on my mind. One of them was to the following effect:—

In a parish near Dundalk, the number of Protestants was so small, that it sometimes happened none of them attended the parish church: on which occasions there was, of course, no service. The circumstance of non‐attendance was always ascertained by the rector, (Sir T—— F——,) who sent his clerk to the church a little before the time at which the service usually commenced. It happened that a farmer, a Roman Catholic, very often made his appearance, which rendered it imperative on the clergyman to officiate; and it was generally observed, that the most favourite days for Paddy to display his devotion were those which would be most disagreeable to others. When it rained, hailed, sleeted, snowed, or blew most violently, he was never known to be absent. Of this pious rage he was cured in a remarkable manner. The reverend baronet sent for him, and, before they parted, it was agreed that Paddy’s tithe should he considerably reduced. Since that time the “holy Roman” has never been seen within the walls of the church!

p. 170

27th. This morning I rose at an early hour, and walked over a part of Mr. Christy’s farm, which I had not seen the preceding day. In this little excursion I had the pleasure of Mr. Christy’s company, and derived from his extensive and accurate information the utmost satisfaction on many points of my inquiry, relative to that neighbourhood. He expressed a wish to introduce me to some of his friends at Moyallen; but a gentleman with whom I had promised to proceed to Lisburn happening to arrive, and offering me a seat in his gig, I set out with him.

The face of this county (Down8) presents a greater variety of hills and valleys, lakes, and bogs, on a small scale, than any other of similar extent that I have seen. The soil is fertile, though not deep; the substratum varies in different districts: argillaceous clay and clay slate seem to predominate. Granite, quartz, basalt, grey‐wacke, and transition limestone are also met with. The cottages here are in every respect equal to those in Armagh, and in some particular comforts are superior. In this and the adjoining county of Antrim, an excellent custom is growing into use; namely, that of landlords furnishing lime to their tenants, and requiring them to whitewash their cottages and cabins twice a year. This practice cannot be too strongly recommended; and it is much to be regretted, that it is not generally adopted all over the kingdom. While it contributes powerfully to destroy contagion, a common attendant on filth, it conveys an idea of decent comfort, which not only raises the possessor in his own estimation, but must render his abode pleasant, healthy, and delightful.

28th. Dr. Hancock, of London, had kindly favoured p. 171 me with introductory letters to several of his friends in Ireland, and I waited on his mother with one to‐day. She was slowly recovering from a dangerous illness, and had not for many days received any visits, yet she most obligingly desired that I might be shewn up. I found her sitting up and exceedingly cheerful: indeed I never beheld so perfect a picture of elegant manners, pious resignation, and dignified old age.

29th. A gentleman, at whose house in Lisburn I resided, accommodated me with a horse, and accompanied me in a ride through a part of the county of Antrim. We ascended a hill about four miles from the town, whence we had a commanding view of the surrounding country; from its summit, it is said, part of seven counties,—Antrim, Derry, Tyrone, Armagh, Monaghan, Louth, and Down, can be seen: we distinctly saw the coast of Scotland, and some of the islets in the north Irish channel. I had been often before on ground of much greater elevation, but I do not remember any place where a more extensive or fertile tract of country came at one time under the eye. The soil in some parts of this county is loam, in others clay, and occasionally alluvial: in many places it is exceedingly productive. Its mineral treasures have been but little explored. Beds of sandstone exist in many places, and exhibit strong traces of coal. Limestone is very abundant, and basalt is met with everywhere.

1st July. The friend who rode with me yesterday proposed a drive to Carrickfergus9, and at six this morning p. 172 we set out. Two roads lead to Belfast from Lisburn, both in excellent condition: the new one, which was opened within the last six years, runs through a fine level country; but, as few houses have as yet been erected, and but little done in the way of planting, it presents rather a naked and dreary appearance, when compared with the old one, which truly more resembles a ride through a highly improved demesne than a turnpike road.

This, as well as the two adjoining counties of Down and Derry, is sprinkled with bleachgreens, generally well covered with linen, the snowy whiteness of which forms a delightful contrast to the rich surrounding verdure: to this a fine sheet of water or a winding stream adds occasionally ornamental effect, the whole exhibiting these busy haunts of industry in the most finished combination of landscape beauties.

The town of Belfast is singularly well situated for commerce, being seated at the extremity of a noble bay, which is sheltered on the north by a range of high mountains extending from Fair‐head, and ending in a superb crown just above the town, by which the tyrant winds of the ocean are effectually frowned away: on the south and east side rise the broad, bleak, heathy mountains of Down, which embrace the little towns of Holywood and Castlereagh; whilst the interior country, spreading its swelling bosom to the genial sun, displays a state of cultivation that may vie with places which make a boast of agriculture. These hills supply the town of Belfast with provisions, not only for its own consumption, but largely for exportation.

The staple article of trade, like every other that induces industrious effort, here peculiarly evinces its invigorating power; and the people everywhere appear active, intelligent, facetious, and independent; exhibiting a strong contrast p. 173 to the dull, despairing, melancholy air, that is too much a matter for painful note elsewhere. The wealth which flows in upon this district from its commerce and manufactures, is not laid by in inglorious concealment. The numerous elegant villas, highly improved grounds, and whitewashed cottages that crowd upon the admiring and gratified eye, along the road leading from Belfast to Carrickfergus, afford a pleasing proof that these happier of their nation know how to earn and enjoy the comforts of life. The distance between is about eight miles, but the views are so beautiful, so various, and so full of interest, that the traveller would wish it ten times as long.

Visited the goalgaol of the county of Antrim, of which I had heard various opinions expressed. Some asserted that it answers every purpose for which a gaol is intended, while others affirmed that in it not one of them can be attained;—both parties are wrong; for, it undoubtedly deprives great numbers of their liberty, which is one of the ends for which prisons are designed. Every one must acknowledge that the reformation of an offender should be a paramount object in prison discipline; but whether any degree of exertion on the part of the officers of this prison can effect that purpose is, in my mind, more than questionable.

Complete classification and inspection are indispensable in a good gaol;—in this prison they are both wanting. Two new wings were added to it in 1820, the cell windows of which are by far too small to admit air and light in sufficient quantity, and the whole is still too small for the number it is necessary to crowd into it. In a day‐room, twenty feet by thirteen, there were thirty‐six felons. In a corner of each day‐room, a boiler is set for cooking: each cell is provided with two beds, and two prisoners sleep in each. There are four cells to which the name “solitary” p. 174 is given, but without any apparent good reason, for persons there confined can converse freely with those on the opposite side.

Inconvenience must arise from the passages to the dormitories being injudiciously situated, directly facilitating communication among prisoners of different classes and sexes. A few of the females were spinning linen yarn, but all the males were doomed to idleness, and, unfortunately, there is no place within the walls of the prison where a workshop can be erected. In addition to the above defects, the keeper, Mr. Erskine, assured me that the prison is insecure; and, that, if the prisoners would but keep their own secrets, it would be impossible for him and his assistants to prevent their escape.

It is gratifying to state that some excellent rules have been framed for the guidance of the prisoners, which appear to be carefully enforced. Three humane ladies, Mrs. Hutton, Mrs. Johns, and Miss C. Duncan, perform the praiseworthy task of visiting and instructing the unfortunate females: a similar duty appears to be zealously discharged to the males, by the Rev. W. Flinter, Captain Dobbs, and Alexander Johns, Esq. The Protestant, Presbyterian, and Catholic clergymen, are said to be very regular in their attendance.

A schoolmaster is provided, who receives a salary of thirty pounds; and his services, I consider, are invaluable. Many of the prisoners have been taught to read and write, although when they came in they were ignorant of the alphabet. I saw the hand‐writing of several; one man, upwards of sixty years of age, learned to write beautifully in six months. There were convicts of both sexes under sentence of transportation, detained upwards of eighteen months after trial: these were constantly remarkable for p. 175 refractory spirit, and disregard of all regulations. In the infirmary, two old men were dangerously ill; one of them was detained for his prison fees. Each prisoner is allowed nine pounds of oatmeal a week; six pounds of potatoes, and one pint of new milk a day; one pint of salt a week, and four ounces of soap a fortnight. I cannot conclude this imperfect sketch without offering my humble testimony to the excellent manner in which the duty of the physician appears to be performed. To the politeness and intelligence of Dr. M‘Gowan I am much indebted.

The town of Carrickfergus holds a conspicuous place in the page of Irish history. It has been the theatre of many a hard‐fought contest, and appears to have been a favourite landing‐place for many invaders: king James the first considered it the key to the back door of Great Britain. It was here William the third landed with his forces on the 14th of June, 1690. The town was formerly surrounded by a feeble wall, some vestiges of which, particularly an arch‐way over the north gate, are still remaining. The castle is built on a rock projecting some distance into the sea; the walls are of prodigious thickness: twenty‐two pieces of cannon, long twelves, are mounted: the whole place is said to be bomb‐proof, and its massive appearance is strongly in favour of the assertion.

In the church, which is an ancient building, are deposited various banners, standards, statues, and insignia, belonging to the noble ancestors of the present Marquis of Donegal. These precious relics seem to have engaged but little of either public or private attention, as they are all in a state of decay. The roof being broken in by time, admits rain, by which the floor has become rotten; the banners have felt the influence of humidity also, and the swords and armour are nearly eaten through with rust: the statues p. 176 alone appear to have resisted the combined powers of time, air, and moisture, but still they have not escaped mutilation.

2d. This day I enjoyed a walk along the banks of the Lagan. This river has, by means of a canal, been made to communicate with Lough Neagh, into the upper part of which the Blackwater discharges itself. By this means, a very safe and expeditious navigation for lighters, and vessels of thirty to fifty tons, is opened from Belfast to Blackwater town, and from Newry to the same place, by which an active internal trade is capable of being extended; at present it is considerable. I visited the boarding‐school, near Lisburn, for the education of the children of Friends, which appears to be conducted in an excellent manner. Mr. Druitt, the governor, took great pains to explain to me the principles on which it is regulated, and his method of keeping the accounts; both are, in my opinion, admirable.

3d. My friend proposed a drive to‐day, for the purpose of viewing more particularly the town and neighbourhood of Belfast. The first place I went to see there was the house of correction, situated at the southern extremity of the town. Its form is an oblong square, fronting the north‐west. The keeper’s apartments are in the centre of the building; the right wing is occupied by females, and the left by males. The yards, workshops, and store‐rooms are in the rear: the number of prisoners, male and female, is posted up each day at the entrance‐gate. The greatest objection to this prison is that of its not being large enough to admit of classification among the number it has ordinarily to contain. For its internal government the most judicious rules have been laid down, and the zeal which Mr. Henry, the keeper, manifests in carrying them into execution does credit to the establishment.

Industry is carried to a great pitch; every prisoner p. 177 enjoys the advantage of being usefully employed; and the greatest punishment that seems to be feared among them is, to be condemned to idleness and solitude. This admirable system obviates the necessity of soldiers to guard the prison. The familiar adage, “He that has nothing to do will soon learn to do evil,” has been fully exemplified in our gaols for centuries; but in this one the reverse is demonstrated. The women make up, mend, and wash all the linen used in the prison; they are also employed in spinning, knitting, making list‐shoes, quilts, and mats of every description: several of them also have learned to weave calico. The men are employed in weaving both linen and cotton, chipping logwood, picking oakum, breaking stones, shoe‐making, tailoring, paving, plastering, whitewashing, &c. in the prison.

A handsome and convenient sessions‐house is just finished, within the precincts of the prison, at which the prisoners laboured regularly, which must have been a saving to the county. A man, named James Kelly, wove eighty yards a week of ten‐hundred web, the wages paid for which were nine shillings and nine‐pence; one‐third of which was placed to his credit. Another man, of the name of Cameron, earned 5l. 19s. 8d.; and a woman, named Elizabeth Moore, earned thirty shillings by spinning. These facts need no comment, and the consequences to which they lead are obvious. One of the female prisoners from this place was received into the family of a clergyman more than three years ago, where she has remained ever since with a good character.

In a cell were two unfortunate men, covered with straw, labouring under insanity. Mr. Henry, the keeper, called to them, when one of them sprung up, and cried out, “Mary, get up; make haste, my dear:” the bewildered imagination p. 178 of the poor man made him believe the other to be his wife. What a humiliating picture! It appeared not proper to keep them together. It is, in my mind, wrong, under any circumstances, to keep lunatics in a gaol. To expect that discipline, however excellent, will prevent them from breaking through all regulations and disturbing the prison, must be vain. Mr. Henry told us he had often found the shower‐bath of great service in bad cases: it must be admitted that this is a valuable remedy; but it is one, the administering of which should not be left to the discretion of a gaoler. In a separate asylum, the tempers of those objects of pity might be studied, and their malady greatly alleviated by kind treatment and patience. If it be within the reach of human efforts to promote a cure, I am certain that in nine hundred and ninety‐nine cases of a thousand, this treatment will be most successful; and surely it must be the most congenial to the best feelings of our nature.

The dietary here is seven pounds of oatmeal, thirty‐five pounds of potatoes, and seven pints of new milk, a week. This allowance of milk is not sufficient. Prisoners who behave particularly well, are allowed to purchase tea, sugar, breads and butter.

4th.—A small party having been formed last evening, for the purpose of a visit to Lough Neagh, we set out this morning soon after breakfast. We took the Antrim road, which lies nearly N. W., and runs over several hills of considerable elevation. The country through which we drove is by no means so fine or fertile as that towards Belfast. Passed several patches of bog in which the people were engaged making turf. Potatoes, oats, and flax, are the principal crops in this county; wheat is but little cultivated. The soil appears to be a compound of dark gravel and yellow p. 179 clay, in several places inclining to loam. I noticed several clusters of small quartzy pebbles, some with sharp angles, but most of them rounded by attrition: saw also masses of basalt.

Seven miles from Lisburn is a little village called Glenavy, built on the face of two small hills, with a river between. About three miles beyond Glenavy is a bleachgreen, where we left our vehicles; and Mr. Dickson, the proprietor, very obligingly walked with us down to the Lough, procured a boat, and accompanied us to Ram’s‐Island. On our way thither a perch was observed floating on its back: I took it up carelessly on my hand, having no doubt that it was dead; but after holding it several seconds, and turning it over two or three times, it sprang from me, and regained its native element.

After rowing about an hour and a half we reached Ram’s‐Island, which is most romantically situated as forming a portion of the beautiful scenery of the lake; its area is inconsiderable. The proprietor, the Right Honourable Earl O’Neill, has taken much pains for its improvement. Two cottages were nearly finished, which, I presume, could not have been planned after his lordship’s taste, as they manifest a want both of elegance and convenience. Here are several full‐grown apple‐trees abundantly loaded with fruit, and others of various kinds are about to be put down.

On this island is one of those ancient monuments which have so greatly puzzled antiquarians; I mean, round towers. This one is forty‐three feet high, and thirty‐five and a half feet in circumference: the walls are two feet eight inches in thickness; it has a door and two windows. The door, which faces the south‐west, has before it a single step of stone. The lower window is about seventeen feet from the ground, and looks towards the south‐east; the other fronts the north, p. 180 and is about thirty feet from the ground. I shall not enter the lists with the many who have displayed profound and learned research, to inquire into the purposes for which those structures were originally designed: whatever may have been the use of the one in question, it is soon likely to furnish no longer a matter for argument, as it is verging to decay. One side has already given way, and although it has been buttressed with much care and skill, there is reason to think it will not stand much longer. There are many proofs that this island was formerly a place of resort for the religious, as several traces of a burying‐ground have been lately discovered at the foot of the tower just mentioned.

While sauntering about the island, we picked up along the shore a few small calcedony pebbles, and calcareous incrustations resembling corallines of imperfect formation: beautiful specimens of the former are often found on the shores of the lake, and at a distance of a mile or two from its margin. Other pebbles, the lustre of which has obtained for them the name of “Lough Neagh brilliants,” are occasionally found hereabouts; both sorts, in point of hardness, are ranked next to the diamond. Numerous experiments have determined the specific gravity of these stones to be 1.285; and their component parts 83 to 85 of pure silex, and 15 to 17 of argillaceous and aluminous matter.

In this neighbourhood are found the roots, and even the stems of trees, in a state of petrifaction more or less complete. These exhibit various light shades externally, and always assume a darker hue towards the centre, occasioned, probably, by the ligneous particles there not being extenuated. I had an opportunity of examining a large mass of this sort at the house of Mr. Dickson, before mentioned; p. 181 it was found in a field, two miles from the lake, and from two to three feet below the surface; I could not learn the matrix. The under surface was petrified to an extent of above seven inches, while on the other the petrifactive process had not extended beyond the depth of an inch and a half. The deeply petrified surface, when struck obliquely with a steel‐hammer, emitted large sparks; the other yielded them less distinctly. Another mass of this kind, about eight pounds in weight, was shown me: on one side it gave out sparks freely, and on the opposite the ligneous quality was so perfect, that I cut it with an ordinary knife, and even scraped it off with my nail. Of the change here let the Huttonians explain the modus operandi naturæ. I have not as yet seen in the county of Antrim either granite or gneiss; but have often met with all their component parts, felspar, quartz, and mica, in an isolated state.

The appearance of the peasantry in general is decent and healthy; in neatness and cleanliness they greatly surpass those of any other place I have seen; the principal part of their clothing is of Irish manufacture. Such wretched huts as disfigure and disgrace other parts of the country are not seen here; even the cabins of that ill‐fated and oppressed class of persons called cotters, a class though lately reduced, still too numerous, are often built with stone and mortar. Every reader may not know, perhaps, what is meant by the term cotter; he is a person whom a middleman, some three or four removes from the proprietor, permits to occupy a cabin with a piece of ground, generally a rood, from year to year without lease, for which the cotter agrees to pay at the rate of from five to ten pounds and upwards by the acre; but, as he never can make or save any money to pay a demand so unconscionable, p. 182 the middleman very obligingly takes the amount in labour, at the rate of from seven‐pence to ten‐pence a day without food.

The most noble, the Marquis of Hertford has an extensive estate in this neighbourhood; and I have often heard it remarked that his lands are let at a moderate rate. This certainly is a strong feature in the character of a good landlord, and tends much to establish a reputation; but there are many minor matters by which the happiness and prosperity of an industrious tenantry may be promoted, particularly an Irish tenantry, that, like the keeping, in a good picture, add embellishments to the main design, and render the portrait perfect and pleasing. In order to be of use in a country, a landlord should reside some part of the year upon his estate, and personally witness the condition of his tenants. His presence will stimulate to industry, and the expression of his approbation alone will often be thought an ample recompence for months of unwearied exertion: these are among the blessings which the poor people here have still to expect. The present Marquis has directed his agent to make many improvements in the town of Lisburn, and the roads in its vicinity, of a highly useful nature; but no agent, however zealous and enlightened, can compensate a country for the “everlasting absence” of its natural protector.

5th.—This day I visited a linen manufactory belonging to the Messrs. Coulston, the most curious and interesting establishment, I believe, in Ireland. It is confined exclusively to the manufacture of damask table‐cloths and towels, in which it surpasses, probably, every similar establishment in any other country in the world. Noblemens’ coats of arms, however complicated, are worked in with the neatest accuracy; and the proprietors evince considerable p. 183 ingenuity and taste in the decorations of the field. One of those gentlemen most obligingly suspended the operations of six looms, to explain to me the principles of damasking. In the first loom the men were employed upon a cloth, twelve yards long, and three and a half broad, for the King; in the second was one for his excellency the Marquis Wellesley; in a third, one for his grace the Duke of Leinster; a fourth contained one for the late commander‐in‐chief in Ireland, Sir David Baird; and two others were in progress for particular clubs. Had I gone from London to Lisburn, and returned without seeing any thing but the admirable machinery of this manufactory, I would have thought myself well rewarded for the trouble of the journey.

6th.—Set out at an early hour this morning for Downpatrick, a distance of 16 miles. At no time can a fine country be seen to so much advantage as early in a summer’s morning; and I enjoyed this luxury to‐day in perfection, in company with my friend. We travelled several miles through the estate of the Marquis of Downshire, which evinces unequivocal and most gratifying assurance that some portion of its noble proprietor’s time is spent at home. If report be true, the tenants on this estate pay higher rents than those of the neighbouring gentry; and, if any judgment may be formed from their appearance, they are much better able to pay them.

The crops are in general good; the houses, neatly built, are kept remarkably clean, and most of them have more or less planting around them, I have no difficulty in believing that the Marquis of Downshire is the best landlord in the North of Ireland. He has established something like an agricultural society for the benefit of his tenants. Small prizes are proposed; and gentlemen farmers, p. 184 whose respectability and experience qualify them for the duty, are appointed to decide on the merits of the competitors: the successful candidates receive the honour from the Marquis’s own hand, accompanied by some compliment well calculated to encourage industrious efforts, not only in themselves, but in all those who are present.

Several schools have lately been established in this county, to which, I am informed, the Marquis has contributed liberally. Wheat appears to be more cultivated here, and oats less than in Antrim; potatoes and flax nearly the same in quantity. Stopped at Ballinahinch to feed our horse, and look at the town, which is said to be situated in the centre of the county. It has a decent parish church, two Dissenting meeting‐houses, and a handsome Catholic chapel. At a short distance to the westward is Montalto, which formerly belonged to the Marquis of Hastings, and is now the property of Mr. Kerr, M. P., and brother‐in‐law to the Marquis of Londonderry. The grounds are handsomely laid out, and finely wooded.

The occurrences of 1798 gave to this town and neighbourhood a sort of consequence to which they had no previous claim. The insurgents took up a strong position in Montalto demesne, from which they were enticed by the superior address of the king’s troops, stationed on a hill on the opposite side of the town. The unfortunate inhabitants must have suffered severely: their town was reduced to ashes, and what property they had was entirely destroyed.

There are wells near this place, impregnated with iron, I believe, and sulphur, the waters of which are reported to possess the extraordinary quality of curing every disease, if taken in sufficient quantity, and continued for a sufficient length of time. It is not to be wondered at that numbers have flocked hither in quest of an object so desirable; but p. 185 many a fond and long‐cherished hope has ended in disappointment, occasioned, most probably, by the votarists of Hygeia not possessing the happy secret of knowing when they had enough.

Between Ballinahinch and Downpatrick there are patches of stony ground, with a superficial covering of yellow clay, which produces nothing but stunted whins (ulex europæus:) we noticed also some fields which appeared to have been recently planted with potatoes; but from the very advanced state of the season, there could be little hope of a crop here. A little to the southward, the land is much better: in the immediate vicinity of Downpatrick it is excellent; but that part of the country is very deficient in bog, which causes turf to be scarce and expensive. For fuel, therefore, they depend principally on coal, which is brought by water to Quoil quay, about a mile from the town. Near this is FinebrogneFinebrogue, a good house and pleasant grounds, belonging to Mr. Maxwell, M. P.

About ten we arrived at Downpatrick. After breakfast, visited the gaol, which is almost as bad as it is possible for a building of that sort to be. The construction renders classification, inspection, and employment utterly impracticable. Females of all descriptions, tried and untried, innocent and guilty, debtors and murderers, are all thrown together in one corrupting mass, and kept in a cell not near large enough. Sick or well, there they must remain both day and night. There were twenty‐one thus confined when I saw it, one of whom had been sick four months: it would not have surprised me had they been all sick. Over this cell is a place where a school is kept; it contained several spinning‐wheels, which is the only kind of industry in the prison.

The smell from some of the felons’ cells was intolerably p. 186 offensive. The prison is insecure; and so wretchedly constructed, that, although room is much wanting, there is one yard of which no use is made; it is covered with weeds and long grass.10 A school has also been established for the males; and this, as well as that for the females, has been productive of great good, notwithstanding the disadvantages that operated against them. As a hope is held out that “another prison will shortly be built, or the old one enlarged,” to point out any more defects would be unnecessary. I will merely take the liberty to offer my unbiassed and disinterested opinion, that no enlargement or alteration can convert the present one into what a prison should be; the expence of making it even tolerable would go a considerable way towards the building of one on a commodious plan, in which the morals of the persons confined would not be deteriorated as at present.

Dietary.—Each person is allowed nine ounces of oatmeal, which, boiled with water, forms the article “stirabout” and half a pint of new milk, for breakfast; four pounds of potatoes and half a pint of new milk for dinner, with half an ounce of salt. During the assize week each prisoner gets four pounds of potatoes and half a pint of new milk for breakfast; sixteen ounces of oatmeal made into bread, and half a pint of new milk, for dinner.

Having seen the gaol we proceeded to visit the cathedral, a handsome edifice erected on the site of an old one, which tradition says was built by Saint Patrick. A grave was pointed out where the remains of this tutelary saint are said to have been deposited. The sessions‐house is a noble building. There is a handsome Catholic chapel, a Presbyterian p. 187 meeting‐house, two Methodist chapels, an infirmary, and a free‐school, which was founded, I was informed, by Lord de Clifford.

7th.—Had a very plesantpleasant drive of a few miles to see some ancient remains called the “Giant’s Ring,” in the county of Down. It is a circular plain of considerable elevation, containing about five acres, inclosed by a large mound of earth. In the centre of this plain a number of large stones were piled together, but not in such a manner as to indicate much labour in the construction. The whole bore strongly the resemblance of that sort of monument called cromlech, or of that description of tomb erected at Kit’s‐cotty House in Kent, in memory of Hengist and Horsa. The crops hereabouts are excellent; the ground rich and well cultivated; the country beautified with gentlemen’s seats, and generally inhabited by people of a superior order. On the following day I returned to Armagh.

12th.—Spent the last three days in riding through the counties of Tyrone and Monaghan, many parts of which have no other characteristic than sheer poverty. Swarms of dirty, ragged children, without education, and pining in the utmost exposure of penury, gave an additional set‐off to the meagre and squalid appearance of their parents, exciting at once feelings of commiseration and digustdisgust; whilst their miserable abodes compelled one to consider with astonishment how it was possible for human beings to exist in such circumstances; and yet the frame‐work of both men and women indicates an excellent constitution of body.

This being the anniversary of the ever‐memorable battle of the Boyne, a day hallowed in the calendar of certain persons in this part of the country, self‐denominated Orangemen, and by them always devoted to unbounded p. 188 festivity, I was desirous to observe what might happen at a place where it was understood several bodies of them had determined to assemble. A small town called Middleton, about seven miles from Armagh, was the place of rendezvous appointed: the cause of this place being selected was openly declared by some of those brave, highminded gentry, and was simply this;—some three or four years back, a number of them had met as usual to celebrate the “glorious memory,” and insult their fellow‐subjects, the Catholics, who, at length, driven to resentment, repelled the aggressors, and the affray terminated in the glorious‐memory‐men getting “gloriously” thrashed. This stain on their chivalry they were determined to wipe off, and for this purpose their forces were this day to be concentred on the ground which had before been the theatre of defeat.

At an early hour the road between Dungannon and Caledon was crowded with men, boys, women, and children: most of them wore shoes, many had stockings, and all were provided with flags, scarfs, or ribands of an orange colour; some of these indeed were discoloured by smoke and soot‐rain, but their owners (or more properly their wearers, for it was said that many of them were borrowed), did not appear to prize them the less on that account. The importance of the occasion was heightened by drums, fifes, and bugles, which produced exhilarating discord. Some of the Orangemen and Orangewomen were mounted on horses that appeared certainly to stand more in need of a feed of oats than the airing intended for them in this procession.

Having passed the preceding night at the house of a relation, close to the road, I was enabled to observe minutely every particular of this irregular and grotesque assemblage. p. 189 There lived in the neighbourhood a poor man, named John Beaviers, almost worn out by disease,—hœmoptysis had brought him to the verge of the grave. I had myself prescribed for him, and most rigidly enjoined abstinence and quiet: but so irresistible was the desire to swell the ultra‐loyal ranks, that this infatuated creature was staggering along in the crowd, nobly supported by his wife. On my expressing astonishment and regret at the fatal folly of this man, an acquaintance who was standing by, and who was an Orangeman, said, “The boys must all show themselves; else how could we tell whether they are of the right or wrong sort?” I asked, would any of those “right or wrong” fellows support the poor man’s widow and children if he were called from them. This seemed treading on tender ground;—I got no reply, and my “right or wrong” friend walked off, not at all pleased at my curiosity.

It would appear that part of the infantry, I mean the Orangewomen, got tired on the march, as many of them were seen returning during the forenoon, not preserving the best possible order. Their native thriftiness, which had been awhile smothered by orange ardour, seemed to revive with increased keenness; for most of those who in the morning wore stockings and shoes, had now divested themselves of those unusual, and to them unnecessary, incumbrances. About three in the afternoon I rode to Caledon, a distance of four miles; the way was strewed with orange‐lilies, and at particular places were thrown over it triumphal arches, decorated with orange‐festoons, and garlands innumerable. The scene was quite delightful, and reminded me of the fabled stories of fairy‐land I had read at school.

From Caledon I had three miles further to travel to Middleton; and this road would have been more enchanting, if possible, than the former, had it not been rendered p. 190 less so by meeting straggling parties of the Orangemen, who had taken a premature departure from the aggregate body; not, however, before they had laid in a large store of whiskey and irresistible loyalty. So desirous were they of an opportunity to display this exalted sentiment, that the cry, “Five pounds for the face of a black‐moutht Papish,” (meaning, I suppose, Papist,) was shouted incessantly. Many of them were mounted on horses, which, I knew, were not their own; almost every horse had two riders; and the violence with which those half‐starved animals were driven, fully verified the old saying, “Borrowed horses have hard hoofs.” It was really disgusting to hear the shout from boys whose ages could not have exceeded sixteen or seventeen years; but some of whom, it would seem, were officers, as they bore standards, and were invested with other insignia indicative of authority.

About half‐way between Caledon and Middleton, I met a large body of them; they had fourteen flags, each of which, I was told, belonged to a distinct lodge. In this crowd, I should think, there were between eleven and twelve hundred persons; and I can safely and solemly assert, that in the whole number there was not one decent‐looking individual. This did not disappoint me; for I was assured that men who had any pretensions to respectability could not be found in brotherhood, or in any way associating with such canaille. I do not mean to say that decent‐looking men are not to be found in the Orange ranks at all: I am acquainted with some gentlemen of respectability belonging to that association, who would reflect credit on any institution; but I cannot believe they would so entirely forget what they owe to society as gentlemen, and to themselves as men, to herd with such persons as have just been noticed.

p. 191

The latter part of the road to Middleton exhibited a more complete picture of drunkenness and violence than the former. Extirpation of the unoffending Catholics was a cherished object. In the arms of apparent death, the faint cry of “Five pound—for the face of a—black‐moutht Papish,” was the last articulate sound that could be collected from those heroes, when they fell overwhelmed by the effects of extreme intoxication.

Having heard some of the Orangemen, several weeks before this, avow their determination to avenge some indignity that had been offered to their party on a former occasion, and knowing that a considerable portion of the population of that part of the country were Catholics, who, it was reasonable to suppose, would oppose force to violence, I apprehended serious consequences from the agitation that was likely to prevail; but was much pleased to find less riot and confusion in the town than I expected. Most of the Orangemen had left it; and as those who remained could find no Catholics to fight with, a quarrel there could not easily be excited. It is barely doing justice to say, that the conduct of the Catholics this day was orderly, decent, and peaceable in a most creditable degree.

After sauntering through the town about an hour, and witnessing many acts of extravagance, I proceeded to Blackwater Town, and that short journey presented a striking contrast to the parade of the morning. The condition of one of the “ultras” was both ludicrous and disgusting. A great many falls had extensively rent the hinder part of his nankeen trowsers, which was not observable as he lay on the ground; but some kind friends, desirous of getting him home, placed him across the back p. 192 of a horse, as they would spoleen or horse‐beef11, his arms and head hanging down on one side, and his legs on the other, which exposed the accident. Dangling in this position, sickness speedily came on; and, in all probability, apoplexy would have terminated his “glorious” career, had I not interposed, and requested them to set him down. While suspended across the back of the horse, his loyalty must have experienced considerable diminution, as it was escaping at both extremities.

Others of these worthies, having exhausted their loyal abuse on the yielding air, had supplied the vacuum with copious libations to the demon of ebriety, and were getting home with various proofs of constitutional ability; but many were incapable of proceeding unless supported by their wives or sisters, who, expecting this result, had come to their assistance. The scene resembled groups of calibans intermingled with angelic forms, who were smiling with sober compassion on the unwieldy and senseless burdens they endeavoured to help along. What pity that men should deprive themselves of the blessings of reason, and be rendered incapable of appreciating the enjoyment of civil liberty amidst the delights and charms of female society!

In the transactions of this day, so far as they fell under my observation, the peace was preserved, in spite of the innumerable premeditated efforts made to the contrary, and bloodshed only prevented by the forbearance of the insulted class. Every hostile intention to produce battle lost its object in the grave contempt of those it was meant p. 193 to injure; it is probable that very serious mischief would have ensued were it not for the praiseworthy moderation of the Catholics.

One atrocity, notwithstanding, was committed in the neighbourhood, and the unhappy occurrence is sufficiently demonstrative of the spirit which actuates the human mind when its impulses are at variance with the principles of social life. A party of those whom I had seen at Middleton, on their return, got hold of a poor Catholic, and beat him unmercifully;—he died of the abuse shortly afterwards.

It was reasonable to expect that some steps would be taken to bring the perpetrators of so foul a crime to justice; but the magistrates of the district manifested, in this instance, a spirit of forbearance and forgiveness of which they had never before been suspected: the delinquents were left at large to follow their avocations, and pursue their pleasures, as if nothing had happened. Had they chosen, they might have performed similar exploits the next and succeeding days, ad libitum, without molestation from the local authorities.

I foresee the incredulity of the English reader, who will stare and exclaim, “Impossible! why should such an unnatural state of things exist in a country under the protection of British justice?” Let him go to the spot, he will soon discover the cause of the anomaly. Thousands there will tell him, “It’s no wonder they are spared; are not they all Orangemen, and two of them sons of Justice * * *, the rector?” Let the question be fairly asked, even of the magistrates themselves, the whole mass of prejudice lying between their mode of reasoning and the conviction of the fact—if a party of Catholics had fallen on, and murdered an Orangeman, would they have so p. 194 slumbered on their post? Would not the utmost vengeance of the law have pursued the wretch who had wantonly dipped his hands in the innocent blood of his neighbour? Would not the applause of every honest heart have accompanied the effort which would drag the offender before that upright judge, to whose impartiality and firmness the country is indebted for having fixed this very enormity upon the records of the bench?12

15th. Feelings of irritation and ill‐will among the lower classes of both parties have been manifested, in some parts of the country, since the assembling of the Orangemen on the 12th. A farmer of respectability, a Protestant, related to me a petty incident of this nature, of which he was an eye‐witness, nor did he scruple to give his opinion in terms of unqualified reprobation. It was this. On Sunday, the 14th, while a priest was officiating in a Catholic chapel at Killiman, a party of Orangemen marched up and down before the door, playing a party tune, which is known to p. 195 be exceedingly offensive to Catholics. The congregation felt the insult acutely: their numerical superiority enabled them to resent and punish it. A general engagement was prevented only by the active interference of the priest, who, exerting all his powers of persuasion, the only authority attached to his profession, happily succeeded in restraining his indignant flock,—an effect which, perhaps, no other human means could have accomplished.

The same day furnished myself with an opportunity of witnessing a disposition to make reprisals, evinced by the Catholics, about thirty of whom proceeded in a close body through a hamlet, called Carrick‐colman, inhabited almost exclusively by Orangemen. These fellows were provided with bludgeons, which they brandished in defiance to the Orangemen, whom they were taught by long experience to regard as natural enemies. This hostile movement was occasioned, it is said, by an occurrence long anterior to the 12th of July.

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At a cottage, or small farm house in the neighbourhood, an itinerant fiddler was accommodated with a night’s lodging, and the use of a barn, to give a dance to the peasantry, who, when the labour of the day was over, assembled in considerable numbers. In the midst of their innocent pastime, a lad who, it appears, was an Orangeman and a yeoman, took offence at some one of the dancers, and presently left the house. He went directly to the hamlet and roused several of the yeomen, who sprung from their beds, fixed on their accoutrements, and with their muskets sallied forth to punish the imaginary insult sustained by a brother. The dancers, alarmed at the report of an armed party coming, took to their heels, and were hotly pursued by those redoubted guardians of public peace and constitutional liberty; nor was the hunt discontinued until the affrighted fugitives found refuge in the “Brantry Wood,” shooting‐grounds, belonging to the earl of Caledon.

There are persons, I doubt not, who will look upon these circumstances as unworthy of any notice; or at least undeserving of a place even in the unassuming page of a tourist. In such an opinion I feel it impossible to concur. History, like the theory of botany, may be learned at school, or studied in the cabinet; but he that wishes to understand either thoroughly, must derive his knowledge from actual observation, and careful inquiry in the book of nature. Correct notions of the genius, disposition, and condition of the Irish, must be gained from scenes in real life, else they will not be gained at all. The events just mentioned are the natural, the inevitable consequences of a system to which the vital interests of that country have for centuries been blindly sacrificed. However trifling, in the aggregate of national concerns, such occurrences may p. 197 appear, they have a powerful tendency to perpetuate feuds, and to sever the last remaining link in the great chain of civil life, by which nature binds social man to his fellow‐man. Instead of this divine union, what do we behold? Hatred and a base spirit of revenge, are often the only property that a father has to transmit to his child; these bad passions are fostered in the cradle, nourished during adolescence, and carefully brought to a luxuriant maturity. There is not, I will venture to say, a seminary in the north of Ireland, from the first‐rate academy down to the humblest hedge‐school, that does not furnish convincing illustrations of this proposition. If this frightful statement be correct, and it fearlessly challenges contradiction, should it not be a paramount consideration in the executive to dry up the source whence such deadly evils spring?

That those animosities are kept up and increased by the annual processions and extravagancies of Orangeism, I presume no candid and impartial man, who has any personal knowledge of the country, can question. I would dispassionately ask the upholders of this association what benefits has it conferred on the country? Has Ireland ever derived from it aught but jealousy, discontent, and sanguinary discord? Its advantages, if it have any, are known to very few: its baneful consequences, who does not know? It has been said that the institution was established on the basis of unshaken loyalty, and that at the time of its formation it was necessary to the salvation of the country. The former I doubt not; the latter, as it rests on mere speculative assertion, unsupported by evidence, or the shadow of probability, is wholly inadmissible. But, for the sake of argument, suppose it were true, will any man in his senses pretend to say that an association, p. 198 once useful, should be continued after it has not only ceased to do good, but has become absolutely and extensively pernicious?

The Orange institution has existed nearly thirty years, a period amply sufficient to develope and determine its tendency. If the general welfare of the country were the object of its founders, they must now surely be satisfied of its inadequacy to an end so patriotic and praiseworthy. If, on the other hand, the design originated in selfish motives, which must be advanced at the expence of the nation, their hopes in this regard may have been answered; but in either case the necessity of abolishing it now, out of consideration of the general good, is obvious and imperative. Let the experiment be tried. Let Orangeism be laid in the grave for a period as long as it has lived, and, at the expiration of the next thirty years, there will not be found a well‐wisher of Ireland to vote for its resurrection.

16th. During the last two days I rode through a considerable part of the county of Monaghan13; and to‐day I visited the gaol in the town, in company with the local inspector, the Rev. Charles Evatt. The new gaol is in progress, and will be finished, it is expected, by the end of the year. The plan of this prison is good, and it promises well to be a useful institution. There will be seventy‐seven dormitories for criminals, with appropriate day and working rooms. The gaoler’s house is to be in the centre, and will command a view of all the yards, of which there are to be ten. The great desideranda, classification, inspection, and employment, being secured, strong p. 199 hopes may be reasonably indulged from their combined influence. The old gaol is so completely a sink of wretchedness and infamy, that a description of it would disgust any one of ordinary sensibility; I therefore refrain from noticing it further, more particularly as it will not be necessary to use it much longer as a prison. In this receptacle of misery I saw three genteel‐looking young men, who had been concerned in a duel, which proved fatal to the son of an apothecary.

The Rev. Mr. Evatt obligingly conducted me to the sessions‐house, in one of the rooms of which a “Hibernian school” is conducted under his own immediate auspices. There were present one hundred and thirty‐three children, of whom eighty‐eight belonged to Catholics, who, Mr. Evatt said, neither could nor would send them to a school where any expence was to be incurred. The New Testament class was called up while we were there; each of the children in turn repeated, from memory, a verse from the gospel of St. John, very correctly; only two of them made any mistake.

18th. To‐day rode through a district in the county of Tyrone, called the Brantry, Carrickcastle, and Carnteel, which presented an exceedingly miserable appearance. The quality of the land generally was very indifferent; the tenants poor, and unable to cultivate it in such a manner as to give any hope of a return. I inquired after several poor tenants whom I had known twenty years ago, but they were nearly all gone, and quite forgotten. Being unable to pay their rents, they were ejected from their holdings, and turned adrift upon the world; their places were supplied by others, who, in their turn, two or three years after, shared the same fate: in some places there had been four generations or occupiers within a dozen years. p. 200 An intelligent farmer quaintly answered a question I put to him, by saying, “The gentlemen in this place, Sir, are doing nothing but swopping beggars, (meaning tenants,) and they constantly get the worst of the bargain, for the new‐comers are always worse than the old.”

Sandstone abounds in this part of the country, and the soil is difficult of labour from the stiffness of its quality. No wheat is attempted to be raised in the northern parts of the county; potatoes, flax, and oats are the usual crops; patches of barley and rye are met with occasionally, but those latter crops are by no means abundant.

20th. Slept at the house of a friend in Carrick‐colman the last two nights, where I had sojourned four or five times before, and had the pleasure to hear a party of Orangemen serenade the hamlet every night with a band, consisting of drums, great and small, with fifes and bugles. There is something so truly delightful in the unaffected happiness attending the sports and amusements of the labouring poor, when the grateful return of evening allows them to relax from the toils of the day, that any disapprobation of their innocent pastime is liable to be construed into fastidious ill‐nature. I have no desire to incur such an imputation, yet I cannot help strongly advising that the party‐tunes, now selected for the amusement of the villagers, be exchanged for others of a less offensive and inflammatory character.

21st. Rode many miles to‐day through Tyrone, northward by Ballygawley, and saw nothing but dirt, poverty, and wretchedness. The country abounds in hills, here called mountain, covered with heath, (erica vulgaris,) and strewed with miserable hovels, to each of which are attached a few yards of badly‐cultivated ground, which only makes the barrenness that prevails the more conspicuous. p. 201 Hares and illicit distillers are the only animals that appear to thrive in this district, and it would be difficult to say which are the more abundant. I found the hospitality of the latter quite an annoyance: having drunk no spirits for many years, I was unable to comply with their importunate desire to “just taste it, man,” and my non‐compliance gave general offence. Some appeared to regard me with jealousy, and expressed suspicions of my being an exciseman; they said it was not likely that a gentleman would spend his time for nothing, riding through a country where he had no business.

Many of their hovels were constructed by placing long sticks in a slanting position against a high bank, and covering them with scraws; these were afterwards thatched with heath, and as they did not project above the level of the heathy bank, they could not be easily discovered or distinguished by a stranger, until he came close upon them. The doors of these huts, if doors they can be called, are formed by two perpendicular sticks, and five cross ones, somewhat resembling a gate of rude workmanship, having the interstices filled with ropes made of straw, worked in after the manner of a basket.

Persons desirous of extra comfort plaster these doors with a substance composed of tenacious clay and cow‐dung, which renders them impermeable to the severe winds of winter, or rather helps to make the hut a little less wretched, for the word comfort cannot with propriety be in any way applied to such places. Their bed (they seldom have more than one) is generally formed of straw, frequently of green heath, spread on the ground: a blanket or horse‐rug is commonly used for a covering, but very often they have nothing but their ordinary ragged garments, and these they seldom divest themselves of, even p. 202 for repose, as long as they can be made to stick together. These nests are used as dormitories, not only for the father, mother, and all the children,—the pigs, goats, or cows, if they are fortunate enough to possess such inmates, all inhabit the same mansion, and partake of the same bed if possible.

I happened to pass near a place where five men and a young female were regaling over a bottle of whisky, for the purpose, as they said, of “christening Donald’s castle.” This Donald had been married the day before, but having no house to live in, four good‐natured neighbours volunteered their services to assist him and his bride to construct one. They accordingly had assembled at day‐light this morning, and in thirteen hours they completed their task: the “castle” was finished, and the newly married couple were to sleep in it that very night! Green heath composed the bed, a row of sods was to serve for a pillow, and Donald’s “big coat” with Sally’s cloak had to answer for bed‐clothes.

In the summer months it is difficult to ascertain, with any degree of correctness, the number of persons belonging to a house; for, during June, July, and August, it will frequently be without a single inhabitant at all. It is customary here, and in many other parts of Ireland, when a bit of ground is sown with oats, and another spot is planted with potatoes, for the cabin to be closed, and the family to “take the country,” that is, to travel into distant counties, and beg along until their potatoes and corn are nearly ripe. When the family is large, it is usual for the father and mother, after making a division of the children, to take different roads, and each to tell a woful tale of having been lately left a widow, or widower, as the case may be; to deplore the loss of an affectionate partner, p. 203 which reduces the survivor to the heart‐rending necessity of soliciting alms to save a helpless family from starving.

As far as I can collect from private friends, and other persons well acquainted with the country, the number of children in a cabin is seldom less than four, and that it would average above five, which, with the parents, would give at least seven to every cottage or house. Taking them at five and a half, as I have done, I am quite sure that every estimate of the total population is considerably under, rather than above the truth. From the first moment I was capable of making observations, I have invariably found the increase of children in Ireland to be in an inverse proportion to the means possessed by their parents to support them, namely, that the poorest persons in the country have always been the most prolific; and the more I see of the country, the more decided is my conviction of that remarkable fact. I have often seen nine, ten, and eleven children, all of one family,—some ragged, others quite naked, existing, rather than living, in places that would shock the humanity of an English gentleman to see his dogs or his swine driven into.

In my excursion to‐day I entered a cabin while the family were at dinner; the repast consisted of dry potatoes only, which were contained in a basket set upon the pot in which they had been boiled; this was placed on the floor in the middle of the cabin. The father was sitting on a stool, and the mother on a kreel of turf; one of the children had a straw boss; the youngest was sprawling on the floor, and five others were standing round the potato‐basket. On seeing me enter, the man rose up, and offering me his stool, made a confused apology for his homely fare, and expressed his regret that he had neither whiskey nor milk to give me. He said to his wife, in a sort of loud whisper, “May be the p. 204 gentleman will taste the bull’s milk:” she signified her fear that it was too sour, “but such as it is,” said she, smiling, “the gentleman is welcome to it, and if it was crame or wine, he would be welcome too.” I declined this civility, but knowing how much these poor people are gratified by a stranger’s eating or drinking with them, I took a potato, which not being boiled enough, I put down, and took up another, and another, but all were equally hard. The man instantly put one into the hot turf‐ashes to have it better cooked for me. He said, “We always have our praties hard, they stick to our ribs, and we can fast longer that way.”

The term “bull’s‐milk” will be unintelligible to most English readers, and, I regret to say, there are thousands of Irish whose ears are too finely attuned to bear the rude shock of such vulgar sounds,—whose eyes are too delicate to look for an instant on the afflictions of their desponding countrymen, and whose hearts are made of materials by far too genteel to relieve or pity the agonies of a starving family. I assure myself of the humane reader’s indulgence for this digression. There is a wide difference between the feelings that will be elicited by witnessing distress in real life, and seeing an imperfect account of it on paper: if any man can contemplate such scenes without feeling as much indignant concern as I do, I will patiently endure his censure and his scorn. With regard to the peasant’s beverage just mentioned, it is thus prepared:—A quantity of unsifted ground oats, called seed‐meal, the same materials from which flummery, or sowins, is made, is left to ferment in a very large proportion of water. When fully acidulated by the action of the atmosphere, it is poured off and reserved for use, and may not unaptly be compared to diluted vinegar. Even this, “such as it is,” is in general sparingly used to kitchen the scanty meal of potatoes, which are not unfrequently p. 205 eaten in a half‐boiled state, from motives of pitiable economy, such as has been noticed in the instance of this poor family.

23d. Early this morning left Ballygawley for Omagh, a distance of fourteen miles; the road is good, but the country is exceedingly dreary. A great many of the cabins are not much better than those I had seen the two preceding days; the roofs are often irregularly covered by nature with a green sward, which at a little distance strongly resembles a long‐neglected dunghill. On a nearer approach, the neck of a broken bottle, an old tea‐cup, and sometimes a brogue, (an old shoe,) fixed on the end of a stick, and placed over the door, apprizes the traveller that what at first he, perhaps, mistook for a dunghill, is a house of entertainment!—a place where smuggled whiskey is publicly vended in defiance of the numerous absurd and oppressive measures which the Board of Excise has adopted for its prevention, but which, instead of effecting this, have proved a curse to the country and a greater scourge to the innocent than the guilty.

On many of these humble taverns is written up, “Good dry lodgings,” meaning every possible accommodation for the weary pedestrian, of which a notification is variously announced, such for instance as that already mentioned. Sometimes a wisp of straw, tied to the end of a long rod, projecting upwards from the door, promises only a bed; sometimes a turf, with a tobacco‐pipe suspended as the former, indicates a higher kind of entertainment, consisting of tea, sugar, and tobacco; but if a besom be set up, the traveller may rest assured of refreshment of the very best kind, in which is included whiskey “of the right sort, that never saw the face of a gauger.” It is needless to say, that all these are given with a hearty welcome, which takes p. 206 away every ground of complaint regarding the erroneous boast of dry lodgings, as, should rain descend, there is nothing scarcely to prevent its visitation.

Arrived in Omagh at 10, and at noon renewed my ride through the neighbourhood, which is tolerably well cultivated immediately around the town; but in every direction at the distance of four or five miles, the prospect is dreary and forbidding.

24th. At ten visited the county gaol, in company with the Reverend Mr. Stack, the local inspector. This prison enjoys all the advantages that can result from excellence of situation, being built on a rising ground, the salubrity and cheerfulnes of which are augmented by a river of considerable magnitude in front. It is, however, much to be regretted, that situation is almost the only good quality belonging to this establishment. Badly constructed, it manifests the same disregard of classification, inspection, and employment, which characterize all the old prisons in the country.

Want of proper room renders a commixture of debtors and misdemeanants unavoidable. There are no day‐rooms; the cells of the debtors are fitted up with two rows of beds, one above the other; two sleep in a bed, and fourteen usually occupy a cell. The provisions are cooked in the cells, which makes it difficult or impossible to keep them clean; some of them were so completely filled with steam and smoke, that for some time after entering I could not distinguish any object. Cells seven feet by six and a‐half, contain two tenants generally, but six and more have been crammed into one of them at night, not, it may be easily supposed, for the purpose of sleeping, for that was scarcely possible.

Tried and untried form one undistinguished and corrupt p. 207 assemblage here; and to secure, it would seem, the diffusion and complete influence of moral contagion, condemned felons are kept twelve and fifteen months, and even longer, with the untried, of whom many are subsequently acquitted, but not one ever returns to society uncontaminated. This evil, it may be here remarked, exists in every gaol that I have yet seen in Ireland. The reverse of that wise judicial maxim, which presumes that every man is innocent until he is found guilty, appears here only to obtain; for the moment a person is taken up, whether innocent or guilty, infamy more or less attaches to his name ever after, how pure soever his life may happen to be, and this not unfrequently urges to desperation, and to acts of confirmed criminal habits.

Females have one yard, in which those presumed to be innocent must associate with those proved guilty. Employment is scarcely heard of; a few of the females have spinning‐wheels, but none of them were in use. Male prisoners acquainted with sedentary trades, are allowed to work at them, if they can procure work, but instruction in that respect is impracticable. A school has been established, but I had not an opportunity of witnessing its efficacy.

One hundred and forty‐five is the number of persons confined in this prison at the present date. Fourteen are lunatics, the condition of two of whom is truly afflicting to the observer. Both these poor creatures, females, were quite naked, but could not be prevailed on to wear any clothes, for they immediately tore into rags such as were offered to them. They were sitting on straw, and appeared by no means insensible of shame; the moment the door was opened, they fell on their faces, and endeavoured to hide themselves in the straw. The cells in which these unhappy p. 208 creatures are confined, are by far too small; there are three females in one, and five males in another. The allowance of provision is four stone of potatoes, seven and a half pounds of oatmeal, and seven pints of new milk per weak to each prisoner.

It is gratifying to know that the grand jury have presented eight thousand pounds for the purpose of erecting a new prison. The reverend Mr. Stack shewed me a plan of the new one, which has been approved of and accepted. It was submitted by Mr. John Hargrave, an architect, in whom first‐rate talent, unwearied industry, and inflexible integrity, are said to be united. I have myself had opportunities of seeing extensive buildings erected under that gentleman’s superintendence, which were admirably designed and equally well executed. The high character Mr. Hargrave bears, I believe deservedly, is a good pledge to the public, that those infamous collusions and flagrant acts of dishonesty, called jobs, which are so generally and justly complained of in Ireland, will here be prevented. Under such circumstances a hope may reasonably be indulged, that a useful edifice will be constructed.

The Rev. Mr. Stack having politely urged me to dine with him to‐day, I spent a few hours riding over grounds of his some miles out of town, which he was reclaiming and greatly improving. I afterwards rode through Mountjoy park, and the extensive demesne belonging to the Earl of Blessington, which are rich and well laid out, but not kept in the best order. I had travelled through this part of the country seventeen years before, and within that time it has undergone little improvement.

The town of Omagh is certainly advancing, in consequence of some little exertion made by two or three gentlemen p. 209 of property. The market was formerly held on Thursday, but has been changed to Saturday, to suit the convenience of the linen merchants who have to attend other markets in the neighbourhood, and this gives increased briskness to the trade. There is an excellent court‐house here, standing on an eminence fronting the principal street, whence it is seen to great advantage; one disadvantage it has, however, namely, its being too remote from the goalgaol. There is a church, a Presbyterian meeting‐house, a Catholic chapel, a Methodist meeting‐house, and two schools; the latter are said to be well conducted. There is a very good infirmary, that does credit to Mr. Maxwell, the surgeon.

25th. Started at four this morning, and proceeded to Strabane, a distance of fourteen miles: thence I crossed over to Lifford, the assize town of the county of Donegal, situated at the verge of the county, which must be a very great inconvenience to those who, residing at the opposite boundary, have to resort hither for justice or other county business. There is no inn here to afford even ordinary accommodation for a traveller. I stopped at a house of entertainment which is considered the best in the place, and “bad is the best,” in this instance most correctly applies.

My horse was received and fed by a female hostler, who shortly afterwards appeared in the character of a waiter, and attended me at breakfast. It had rained heavily at intervals during several preceding days, which produced a considerable swell in the river, a circumstance that always brings shoals of salmon from the sea; and every labouring man and boy in the town was engaged in trying to catch them, which occasioned the hostler’s duty to devolve on a female. However badly this duty was performed, still it p. 210 was gratifying to know that even one day in the year could afford employment to every one. Many a poor creature is now busily engaged who for weeks had been pining in idleness and hunger. Fine salmon is offered for sale at three‐pence a pound, but there are few buyers.

After breakfast I waited on the Rev. Mr. Graham, local inspector of the prison, who accompanied me to the lunatic asylum, a place I shall always think on with horror. From its situation, being partly under ground, it is dark, damp, unhealthy, and every way wretched. Although not quite unaccustomed to scenes of misery, the objects I beheld here were quite appalling: the stench that issued from some of the dungeon‐cells, the walls of which are so prodigiously thick, as to give a notion that the place was originally made bomb‐proof, was so loathsome that, to use a vulgar but expressive phrase, “it would knock down a horse.”

Before I was able to enter any of these shocking apartments, I certainly thought there must be great want of attention to cleanliness on the part of the attendants, but when a light was brought I was soon undeceived; ventilation alone was wanting: the cells had been recently whitewashed, and were as clean, and altogether in as good order as the monstrous structure of the apartments would admit. The wretched inmates flocked around Mr. Graham, to whom most of them had some little request to prefer; and the manner in which he complied with some, evaded others, and conciliated all, at once convinced me that he was deeply versed in the knowledge of the human heart. They all approached him as a kind, indulgent father, and his treatment of them appeared well calculated to inspire such sentiments. Some of these unhappy maniacs expressed a strong desire for new potatoes, which were just then in season, and sold at a high rate; but the feeling heart of the philanthropic p. 211 divine could not refuse;—he desired three of themselves to go into his garden, and dig a basketful for their companions.

Since Mr. Graham has had charge of this institution, a greater number of persons has been restored to the blessings of sanity than in any other of similar extent in the kingdom, notwithstanding the disadvantage of the building before mentioned. His system is comprised in two words, kindness and patience. Were lunatics caged up here as they are in many places else, the impure state of the air would, in a short time, put a period to their earthly sorrows; but its pernicious effects are here counteracted, in a great degree, by the manner in which they are employed. In places where any ordinary prisoner is doomed to idleness, it must sound strangely to talk of employing lunatics; yet, however strange, it is here accomplished. Mr. Graham had thirteen working in the fields, and eight others amusing themselves all around. He manages so completely to secure their affections, that very few of them ever think of running away. There are thirty‐three in all, nor has any one of them been visited with the deranging effects of corporal punishment.

From this place we proceeded to the gaol, which is an exceedingly bad one; the advantages of classification, inspection, and employment, being wholly unknown. This state of disorder is aggravated by the introduction of smuggled whiskey, which, in the present state of the prison, there is no possible way of preventing. Mr. Graham assured me, that the number of persons confined every year for offences against the revenue laws was great beyond belief. Whiskey of the best quality is publicly—fearlessly sold in the town and neighbourhood, without paying duty. “Pure Inishowen” for five shillings a gallon; and, in p. 212 the country parts, considerably cheaper. If the Excise Board were to offer a premium on illicit distillation, it is a matter of doubt, whether it would be so extensively practised as it now is, under the fostering care of their preventive regulations.

Besides the thirty‐three lunatics in the asylum, there are eight in the gaol; there are also ninety‐two other prisoners, twenty of whom are debtors. There is one man, Alexander M‘Mullin, who was tried last assizes for a felonious offence and acquitted, but who is still kept in confinement, on what grounds neither the gaoler, the sheriff, nor the clerk of the crown, could inform me. The dietary rate is, thirteen pounds of oatmeal and seven quarts of butter‐milk a week. The hospital allowance is, ten pounds of oatmeal, four pounds four ounces of best bread, seven quarts of new milk, and seven quarts of butter‐milk a week; wine and meat at the discretion of the physician. There is a new prison in progress, under the superintendence of Mr. John Hargrave, which is expected to be finished early in the ensuing year.

The prisoners here were, in general, more desponding than those I had seen in any other gaols; but that may, in a great degree, be attributed to the too free use of whiskey. Mr. Graham sat a long while with each, pouring into their sorrowing minds the heavenly balm of religion, which seldom fails to tranquillize the most agonized feelings: pitiable, indeed, is the wretch to whom it can yield no consolation. In this instance its soothing effects were very perceptible. This venerable gentleman appeared to find so easy an access to the hearts of all the sons of affliction whom he addressed, that I could not help feeling a strong interest in knowing more of him: of this a polite invitation to his house furnished an immediate opportunity.

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I found him fraught with information on almost every topic, and the readiness he manifested to satisfy every inquiry relative to the state of the country, will keep me long his debtor. Our conversation insensibly turned from statistical to literary subjects, and on every one Mr. Graham appeared to be a proficient. He shewed me a large collection of manuscript compositions in prose and verse; in them he said he sometimes “whiled away” a tedious hour. Were they published, I am quite sure there are thousands who would pass away an hour most delightfully in perusing them.

In originality of conception, fertility of imagination, and richness of diction, some of his poems are little inferior to some first‐rate works in the English language; whilst, instead of poisoning the minds of youthful readers, as has been the infamous tendency of some highly‐finished poetical works every day issuing from the press, the scope of these is to inspire the mind with a love of virtue, and to establish principles of morality on religion, its only true and immoveable basis. In this most agreeable society I spent four hours, without feeling that time was passing, but an engagement to meet a friend in Derry compelled me most reluctantly to depart.

Quarries of basalt and stratified sandstone have been opened in several parts of Donegal14, in situations that bear evident indications of the existence of coalscoal. A very fine specimen of galena (sulphuret of lead) has been given me by the Rev. Mr. Graham, which, it is said, is clandestinely brought in considerable quantities into Lifford, and p. 214 sold by the whiskey smugglers, who are supposed to be acquainted with the place where it is found; and it is thought that this valuable mineral is procured from some parts of the Earl of Leitrim’s estate.

From Lifford to Londonderry is eleven miles, the road good, and some spots of the country pretty well cultivated. Arrived at seven in the afternoon. The country through which I have been travelling for the last six days is thus spoken of by Mr. Wakefield, whose extensive work may be consulted with great advantage by every one desirous of obtaining detailed information on the general state of Ireland.

“There is a district,” says he, “comprehending Donegal, the interior of the county of Derry, and the western side of Tyrone, which is emphatically called by the people, “the black north,” an expression not meant, as I conceive, to mark its greater exposure to the westerly winds, but rather its dreary aspect. The higher classes, having no establishments here, are represented by agents, whose character is strongly marked by fawning obsequiousness to their employers, whose confidence they abuse, and unrelenting severity to the tenants, whom they unceasingly oppress. There are immense tracts in this part of the country, which their owners never deigned to gladden by their presence; and many of the grand juries in these northern counties are composed of the men (agents) I have here described.”15

The same writer also remarks, page 735. “The mountain tracts are often let by the side, and, according to every appearance, afford but wretched support to a famished and half‐naked population. This I in particular remarked, in p. 215 the course of a tour which I made through the mountains in Donegal. The condition of the people was miserable in the extreme; they were dirty, superstitious, and it was evident they existed on scanty and bad food. Their habitations presented, if possible, a still more disgusting sight. A description of them could not be attempted without offending the ears of those who have never seen any but the cottage of the English peasant. Their habits are such as might be expected among human beings in the lowest state of civilization; and yet, if the accounts given by some travellers of savage life be to be credited, these people live in a state of comparative luxury.”

If this was a faithful picture, and there is not a doubt of its truth, when Mr. Wakefield saw it, fourteen years ago, when the farmer could take the produce of his industry to market, and promptly sell for more than double the price he can now get; a time too, when every poor labourer could get constant employment, and more than treble the present wages; what would that close and generally accurate observer think of it, were he to see it now, when the farmer cannot dispose of his produce at almost any price, and the peasant cannot procure constant employment at any wages, or even for his food?

26th. Rose at my usual hour, four o’clock, and walked round the city walls, which are furnished with five gates, and are said to be an English mile in circumference. On the south and south‐east sides are gardens, and fruit trees covered with fruit, some of which might be gathered by persons from the walls. On the north and north‐west sides the town has extended greatly beyond the limits of the old city. On the north‐west side, within the walls, are a chapel of ease, a large Dissenting meeting‐house, and a Methodist chapel, all apparently well built, and presenting p. 216 a very decent appearance. From the wall over the south‐west gate the city is seen to great advantage; on the left, the bishop’s palace; on the right, the new court‐house, which is the most elegant and commodious place of the kind I have seen. In its rear is the cathedral, a venerable pile of gothic architecture falling to decay: it was built by the Irish Society, in 1633.

There is a wooden bridge of excellent construction, one thousand and eighty feet in length, with a draw‐arch on the town side: it was framed in America, and built by a Mr. Cox, a native of that country. A large metal pipe extends from a hill on the opposite side of Lough Foyle along this bridge, and supplies the town with good water. Passing over this bridge I had another good view of the town; it was just five o’clock; the sun had fairly mounted above the horizon, and the morning was delightfully fine. The town, rising somewhat abruptly in the foreground, exhibited a neat and handsome appearance, whilst higher hills behind finished the outline irregularly on that side: the extensive sheet of Lough Foyle was perfectly unruffled; there were some vessels in the harbour, and some small craft in the offing, peacefully resting on the glassy surface of the water, and defying every effort of the sailors to give them motion; it was a perfect calm,—the sails hung idle, and not a sound was heard, save the light hum of bustle in the town.

Nearly in the centre of the town is a small square, called the “Diamond,” where the market is held; a plain brick building stands in the middle, which serves as an Exchange; it was built about two hundred years ago. At an early hour the market is well supplied with potatoes, butter, and butter‐milk, the quantity of the latter appeared enormous. The entrance to the harbour is narrow, but it is neither p. 217 difficult nor unsafe. The little trade of this place is chiefly with America, whence it imports flax‐seed, barilla, hemp, tallow, &c.; its chief export appears to be emigrants and money. I was not able to learn any thing like the annual amount of emigration; some persons of whom I inquired estimated it at three, others at four thousand, and some at five thousand: be the number what it may, it is quite certain that not one in a hundred is of the Catholic persuasion. These are, as it were, wedded to the soil, which they never voluntarily desert. Mr. Wakefield in his excellent work on Ireland, gives the following forcible picture of this degraded class of the community.

Speaking of Down, he says, “No country affords a more striking proof of the superiority which education and wealth have over numbers. Were an enumeration made, the Roman Catholic population would, I believe, preponderate; yet these people are depressed beyond all conception, and what may appear astonishing, they bear their degradation without murmuring or complaint. Familiarized with misery, they have acquired an habitual apathy, and have become indifferent to those objects, in which the inhabitants of a free country are always interested: they seem neither to know or to feel the extent of their misery. Insensible to, and seemingly careless of, the great events that are passing in the world, they are never heard to express an opinion on any political subject. Their whole ambition is centred in an unnoticed and unknown existence. They do not weave, but are remarkably expert at knitting; and it is observed that they are less industrious than the people in other parts of the country. The debasement and self extinction into which they have fallen pervades their whole habits, and has become more strongly marked p. 218 in their demeanour and appearance since the general arming of the Protestants in 1798.”16

Close to the city is a large building called the college, and the county infirmary, the latter of which is, I believe, well conducted. After breakfast I waited on the local inspector of the prison, who was polite enough to accompany me immediately to that place, which is situated on the west side, a little way outside of the city. The old prison is an exceedingly bad one, but I refrain from giving a description of it, as a new one has been erected, which it is hoped will be fit for the reception of prisoners in a few months. This extensive prison is well situated, and is constructed on a good plan. What is called jobbing too generally attends the execution of public works in Ireland. It is not meant to say that such influence has been exercised in this one; but I could mention several, in the cooking up of which this favourite spice has been unsparingly used. I know one, not a hundred miles from the spot on which I stand, on which upwards of thirty thousand pounds have been already expended—by the county, and it is not yet finished; when it is, the expence most probably will be nearer forty than thirty. I am far from intending to censure the parties who contracted to execute this work; I know them neither by character nor name. Every man has, I conceive, a right to make as good a bargain for himself as he can; but men who thrust themselves forward to cater for the public, should not be entirely destitute of the faculty of blushing;—“where there is shame there may be virtue.” I have been assured by competent authority, that the undertaking alluded to might have been built and completely finished for sixteen thousand pounds.

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There are two schools in the old gaol, but neither of them appears to be well attended. The local inspector has laudably exerted himself to supply some of the prisoners with materials for working at sedentary trades, but with little success: it is hoped that in the new prison he will have a better field for the exercise of his humanity. The diet rule here is, twenty‐eight pounds of potatoes, ten pounds of oatmeal, seven quarts of buttermilk, and half a pint of salt per week.

At noon rode about fourteen miles through the county towards Colerain, by the old road leading through the village of Muff, parish of Faughanvale, and Ballykelly, and was greatly pleased with the scenery; the crops promised to be most abundant. A considerable portion of this country belongs to the Grocers’ company. I returned to Londonderry17 in the evening, and reckoned that I had been accosted by thirty‐five beggars during my ride. I had this evening an opportunity of hearing something of the character and circumstances of the Rev. Mr. Graham of Lifford, of whom mention has been made above.

It gave me sincere gratification to find the high opinion I had so soon formed of the character of this worthy man confirmed by the testimony of others who had long known him. He is no less exemplary for benevolence and piety, than distinguished for learning and talents of the first order. He was ordained in 1799, by Doctor Young, bishop of Clonfert. Through the medium of Dr. Knox, then bishop of Killaloe, and now of Derry, he obtained a curacy at Kilrush, and did duty in five united parishes, an extent of twenty‐five miles. In 1809, he was removed to p. 220 the diocese of Derry, where, on the emoluments of a curacy and the pittance allowed him as local inspector of the gaol, he is struggling to support a wife, and to educate his family, consisting of no less than eight children. He has not been backward in employing his powerful abilities, as well in defence of the church, as in support of the tory administration. His services have been felt and acknowledged, but remain to be rewarded; for, after a lapse of twenty‐three years, he still remains a curate.

27th. Anticipated my usual hour of rising, and walked round the city walls before four o’clock. At five took a ride towards Fawn, and observed parts of the country better cultivated, and producing finer crops than I had seen for some time. Returned to breakfast at ten; set off soon after noon, and at four arrived in Strabane, whence I walked over to Lifford, and called on the Rev. Mr. Graham with whom I passed a most agreeable evening. During my stay, a convalescent lunatic came in, and made his report, that “he had worked eleven hours that day.” On leaving this excellent individual, I could not help saying to myself, how unavailing is worth without interest, and with it—how unnecessary!

28th. Left Strabane at half‐past four this morning, breakfasted in Omagh at ten, and arrived in Aughnacloy at three in the afternoon. Between Strabane and Omagh I met thirteen beggars, and thence to Aughnacloy twenty‐one others.

Although tithe does not appear to have formed any part of the observations contained in the preceding journal, its omission does not arise from any inattention to the subject. Fully sensible of its importance, I have endeavoured to collect the sentiments of the people in every place I visited: family connections, and private friends in many p. 221 parts of the country, have facilitated my inquiries, and promoted their object.

That tithe is a source of great discontent even in Ulster, admits of no doubt whatever; and that every class of persons, of every religious persuasion, would sacrifice much to be relieved from its weight, is equally certain. It is, however, probable that it might be levied without any very serious opposition, so long as the farmers are able to pay it out of those means which arise from other branches of industry besides that of agriculture. Candour owes it to the character of the clergy in this province to state, that their tithes are valued at a rate comparatively moderate, and that some remarkable instances of lenity have occurred highly creditable to the parties who had to make the claim. That it is a grievance, and operates with galling effects upon the people, is manifest from the resentment shown on many occasions: in the parish of Aghaloe, for instance, where I am now writing, the Hon. and Rev. Archdeacon Knox demanded a small increase of tithe, which was resisted by the parishioners with great obstinacy. The case was litigated, and decided in favour of the Hon. Archdeacon, but his claims were, nevertheless, rejected. Tithe‐proctors were employed, one of whom is said to have spoken very unguardedly of the compulsory measures he intended to pursue; when he went to carry his threats into effect, he was assailed by a number of men, dressed in women’s clothes, who beat him to death, and almost killed another tithe‐proctor who acted as his assistant. Among the many who oppose this demand, are Protestants of opulence and respectability, determined to resist it as long as possible.

29th. Started at five, proceeded into the county of Armagh, and spent the remainder of that day in Blackwater Town. During the last three or four days, I found p. 222 the atmosphere tainted with exhalations from decomposed vegetable matter, occasioned by steeping flax in stagnant water, until the inner or woody portion undergoes a putrefactive process, of which the fibrous part is less susceptible; a practice common in every part of Ulster. With respect to the influence of these exhalations in producing disease, various opinions have been advanced, and confidently maintained.

Theoretical reasoning, and analogical induction, would certainly pronounce judgment on their pernicious tendency, while experience would as certainly declare them harmless. Having spent the early part of my life in Ulster, where the cultivation of flax and the manufacture of linen form the staple article of trade, I had innumerable opportunities of noticing the effects produced by these offensive effluvia. I have seen men, women, and boys, up to their knees in ditches filled with flax, the smell of which was intolerable to persons unaccustomed to it: day after day, and year after year, have I known the same persons thus employed; yet I never saw or heard of an instance where fever could be fairly traced to this cause.

Catarrhal and pulmonary affections have often arisen from this, as they would, most probably, from an equal extent of exposure in any other way. Water in which flax has been steeped is certainly fatal to fish, and its smell is peculiarly disagreeable; but in answer to the question, Does it, or does it not induce disease? I should say from considerable experience, it decidedly does not.

30th.—Set out early, and arrived in Monaghan by nine o’clock. At eleven started again and proceeded to Clones, a small town in the county of Cavan. This county abounds with hills, some of them so large as properly to admit of the term, “mountain,” (in the Irish language p. 223 accurately distinguished by the word, slieve,) which, however, is generally applied to every spot that produces heath. Except in the neighbourhood of gentlemen’s seats, this country is almost bare of wood, which gives it a dreary and sterile appearance greatly beyond what a closer inspection will prove to be the fact.

From Clones I proceeded by the end of Lough Erne to Belturbet18, without observing much variety in the country. The peasantry often present as wretched an appearance as I noticed among the inhabitants of the black north; pits for dunghills in front of the cabins, close to the doors, are seen every where. The females exhibit a more slovenly appearance than I have yet seen; it is often difficult to distinguish the sex by the dress, for women are seen in every field at work, with a man’s patchwork coat tied round the middle with a thick straw or hay rope, and a hat very often without a crown, furnished with a band of the same materials. I saw no children to day absolutely naked, but the living rags that many have hanging round them, are, in my mind, a thousand times worse than nakedness. Between Clones and Belturbet three young wretches were employed in a way more exquisitely disgusting than I ever noticed among the savages of any country. They were sitting at a door, picking a garment of some sort, but decency forbids to mention how they disposed of the legions they were destroying.

The crops everywhere look fine; the people engaged pulling flax and making hay with a jocundity of manner that but ill accords with their miserable appearance; these p. 224 are the only employments at present to be seen, except here and there a woman carrying a kreel of turf on her back, with a stocking in her hands, which she knits as she goes along.

31st. Had my horse fed, and was on the road by four o’clock this morning; the weather very fine and the country improved since I saw it before; neat country seats, and picturesque glens occasionally enlivening the prospect. Arrived at Newgrove before nine, distant from Belturbet eighteen miles, from which place I departed at noon, and arrived at three in Castleblaney. The demesne and grounds around Lord Blaney’s mansion are laid out with great taste. The poor in the neighbourhood spoke favourably of his lordship as a landlord; and many of his tenants appear in every respect greatly superior to those of any gentleman I had noticed in that part of the country. There is an excellent inn here, and the prices more moderate than are charged for very inferior accommodation in other places of the kind.

1st August. Departed at four, and proceeded through Keady and Middleton to Armagh, whence I returned to Blackwater town: in the evening rode over to Charlemont, and thence through the village of Moy, to the house of a relative in the neighbourhood. Here I found some of his friends waiting my arrival, who, as they understood I was about to return to Dublin, said it would be in my power to render them and many others a very important service, if I would take the trouble to undertake it. Being assured of my willingness to do so, provided no improper motive urged their request, they informed me by one of their number who acted as spokesman: “You know, Sir, that a certain nobleman is a large landed proprietor in this country; we are his tenants, but we know little of his p. 225 lordship, and therefore cannot complain of him; he seldom comes among us, and when he does, his stay is so short, and he is then so constantly attended by his agent, that poor men who may think themselves aggrieved cannot get near his lordship to state their complaints. The whole estate has long groaned under oppression most cruelly exercised by a villain of a bailiff, who can do what he likes with the agent. You know, Sir, that turf is our only firing in this country, and this bailiff has the entire distribution of the bog, which is given in lots according to every man’s holding; but we are obliged to bribe him every year for giving us what is justly our right: a sum of four or five guineas given by each tenant this year, will not ensure the possession of our bog for the next.

“If a lease drops,” continued he, “it can never be renewed without paying this man a large fine. I know at this moment a lease that has been dropped on the estate nine years; the thing is kept a secret,—the old low rent continues to be paid, and, as the circumstance is well known to the bailiff, he is not likely to keep his mouth shut for nothing. Complaints have often been made to the agent against this man’s extortions, but in no one case has satisfaction been obtained. We have been called rebels, and threatened to be committed, if we refused to submit to the ‘laws.’ When the landlord was down, some years ago, many of the tenants tried to see him, but the door was so carefully guarded by constables, that no one ever got in. Some wrote letters, which those constables promised to deliver, but nothing more was heard of them. A few have even walked beyond Dublin, to lay their grievances before his lordship, who always referred them to his agent,—one of the very two they went to complain of. In this way the tenantry are robbed every year; the landlord is robbed p. 226 too, and we have no remedy. Now, sir, as you are going to Dublin, if you would take an opportunity to see his lordship, and lay our case before him, there can be no doubt that he would inquire into it. Our land is too dear as it is, and some of us will not much longer be able to pay either the rent or the bailiff’s bribes.”

I had heard of the insolent exactions of this bailiff from a hundred mouths, but could find no one courageous enough to come forward to prove the facts. I told the party that if they would furnish some affidavits to that effect, I would apprize his lordship of the matter, but could not otherwise interfere; yet such was the prevailing dread of incurring the agent’s wrath, who they had too much reason to believe, was invested with unlimited control, that they shrunk from the danger. They all declared that they had bribed the bailiff, by the hands of his wife, several times at his direct bidding, but he had too much caution and experience to receive it himself. They declared their conviction that if they offended the bailiff, it was the same as if they had sinned against the agent.

Several leases had dropped a few years before, and were not renewed, on which account they felt particularly alarmed, as they were, every instant, at the mercy of their enemies. They say, one and all, “My lease is out, and if I say a word, Mr. ——, (the agent,) will destroy me; I will be turned out, and my family may starve.”—“But,” added they, “if Lord —— will come down, and promise not to let us be hurt, we will tell him the whole truth: before the agent we are afraid to say any thing.”

Should his lordship ever condescend to open this volume, it is sincerely hoped that this page may catch his eye, and engage his attention. He has the name of being a humane and a religious man. In the name, then, of humanity and p. 227 religion I humbly, yet earnestly, call on his lordship to hear the cries of his oppressed tenants. Their complaints may be groundless, in which case it is unjust not to clear the character of the agent and bailiff of such false aspersions; but be the case as it may, investigation cannot fail of doing good. The landlord’s smile, like the sunshine from Heaven, will dissipate many a heavy cloud, and cheer up many a drooping heart. To have been a stranger to their condition so long may be considered a misfortune; but if ignorance be wilfully persisted in, the most lenient will be compelled to consider it criminal, if not disgraceful. However novel or innovative it may sound in Ireland, I confidently maintain that tenants have an undoubted right to claim protection from their landlords: their title to this is as good, and as consonant to the divine principles of justice, as that by which he claims and receives his rents.

2d. Visited Dungannon, and proceeded thence to Tullyhog, a village eight miles north of the former place, and thence to Stewartstown, four miles from the latter. This part of the country is very thickly inhabited, and more generally cultivated than most of the other parts of Tyrone. Flax is raised in considerable quantity, and every little farmer is also a manufacturer of linen. To the little profit arising from this branch of industry, and the price of a pig, which had probably been his bedfellow and mess‐mate from its infancy, and which he usually sells at Christmas, he trusts entirely for the amount of his rent and tithe.

In the evening I rode to Moneymore, seven miles further: the country thereabouts assumes a much more barren aspect, and becomes “mountainous.” On the 3d I set out early, and rode to Magherafelt, a distance of five miles, and passed thence, as there was no one stirring, to Ballynascreen, nine miles further. The people in this district are p. 228 badly clothed, and live very wretchedly; and yet, amidst all the distress they endure, the females reserve wherewith, out of their humble industry, to dress in tawdry cottons on market‐days and Sundays; on which occasions, if they have any distance to walk to a neighbouring town, they decorate themselves in the whole of their flimsy finery, but carry their shoes and stockings in their hand, or tied up in a cloth, until they approach the place. At the first convenient stream, or green spot, they put on their stockings and shoes, and adjust their head‐dress over the stream, or by a little pocket‐glass, and with brilliant eye and joyous step trip along with their companions. On week days, however, the picture is odiously reversed, as all the females, both old and young, exhibit an almost total disregard of neatness in dress, for which their poverty alone can serve as an apology. Illicit distillation is much practised here, and carries its peculiarly deteriorating effects into every retreat of social life, as is painfully visible in the low state of morals.

4th. Set out on my return this morning at four, and reached Magherafelt by eight o’clock, very little gratified, having witnessed nought scarcely but uniform misery and penury all the way. At five I met three men and a boy, all quite tipsy; only one of them had a coat, and none of them had either stockings or shoes: a little farther on there were two ragged boys quarrelling, who also appeared to be intoxicated. It is usual, I am informed, for the persons engaged in making illicit whiskey, to stop the passengers, such as are of their own class, and treat them with a part of their maddening store, in order to secure them in their interest, and not betray them to the excise; hence the scenes just described are not infrequent. Returned to Blackwater‐town, having this day travelled forty miles.

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6th. Having now seen the greater part of Ulster, I went to Armagh, and spent part of the day with my friend Dr. Johnson. We rode through the demesne, and a considerable part of the estate of Sir Capel Molyneux, both of which are in excellent order. The peasantry on this estate are comfortable, and shew all the characters of independence; the ground appears rich and well‐cultivated; and contrasting the present with what I had recently seen about Magherafelt, I could not avoid expressing a wish that every portion of the kingdom had to boast of the advantages enjoyed upon this favoured and thriving property.

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CHAPTER II.

NOTES OF TOUR CONTINUED.

There is no part of the province of Ulster that does not present many objects so deserving of notice, that it would be difficult for the most superficial observer to traverse much of it, without having his attention strongly attracted, and a lively interest excited by the various condition of the population. In one district the benevolent mind will find delight in contemplating an intelligent, industrious, and independent peasantry; and in another, at the distance of only a few miles, the heart will dissolve in pity for the extreme degradation and abject wretchedness of the same class of persons, inhabiting the same soil, and surrounded by the same physical advantages. Curiosity, if not a better principle, will urge him a little further, to explore the limits of such seemingly unaccountable evils, and, if possible, to discover their origin. Feelings of this nature protracted my excursions in the north much beyond the time I had at first intended. The acquisition of certain facts led irresistibly to the investigation of other matters, with which they were necessarily interwoven; and as I proceeded, so important, so deeply interesting, so imperative of solemn consideration did the state of this great province appear, that I take my leave of it, for the present, with heart‐felt concern, and a reluctance raised by anticipations which time alone can cancel.

7th August. Left Armagh in the Dublin coach, and p. 231 stopped at Dundalk, for the purpose of visiting the gaol, and looking over the town and neighbourhood. After breakfast I waited on Mr. Biggar, a magistrate, to ask permission to see the prison: he was not at home, but his son very obligingly came with me. The gaol of the county of Louth is a square building of small size, consisting of two stories; it is not the most commodiously constructed, but it is decidedly the best regulated prison I have yet seen in the kingdom, except the Belfast penitentiary.

A considerable addition was made to it in March 1820, and it is in contemplation to enlarge it still more. The old prison is appropriated to debtors. In the new one, felons are kept on the ground floor, and persons for petty offences above: there will soon be accommodation for four classes of male prisoners. There are at present four day‐rooms, as many work‐rooms, and seven yards, besides a garden, which is both useful and ornamental. Adjoining the prison is the court‐house, into which prisoners for trial are directly marched, without taking them outside the gaol, or requiring military assistance. There are schools in which each class of prisoners is instructed for two hours in succession. To these, as to every other duty, great attention appears to have been paid, and the result is most gratifying.

The females are employed in spinning, sewing, knitting, and picking oakum; but great difficulty is experienced in getting sale for the articles they manufacture. There are two committees; that of the ladies attends three times a week. Three clergymen are said to be very regular in their attendance. I had the pleasure of meeting the Catholic one, the Rev. Mr. Duffy, in the prison; his conversation evinced much liberality and sound judgment. I asked him whether he had any objection to the prisoners p. 232 of his persuasion reading the Scriptures; to which he replied, with great frankness, “Not the least; I not only wish the Bible to be in their hands, but I sincerely wish its principles to be in their heads and hearts.”

The total number of prisoners is forty‐six; there are at present in the prison, convicts who were sentenced eighteen months ago: this practice, so general in Ireland, can not be too severely censured. The yard for untried minor offences is considered unsafe. The keeper’s apartments open into the yards, which greatly facilitates inspection. The keeper is Mr. John Crowe, whose intelligence and unremitting attention to the duties of his office are highly meritorious. The condition of the prison does him great credit; it could not be kept in better order. The dietary scale is, one pound of oatmeal made into stirabout, and half a pint of new milk for breakfast; four pounds of potatoes, and a pint of buttermilk for dinner; three pounds of potatoes, and a pint of buttermilk for supper. Breakfast at nine, dinner at two, and supper at seven o’clock.

Soon after returning to the inn, I received a visit from a young gentleman, whose father invited me to dinner, which I accepted, and meantime proceeded to take a view of the town. Dundalk is an ancient irregularly built place, but the additions within the last twenty years have contributed greatly to its improvement and salubrity; its situation is low and marshy, being built at the head of a large shallow bay, skirted on the north by the Carlingford mountains, along the foot of which is a well‐cultivated tract, called Cooley, numerously peopled by a hardy race of men, who engage alternately in farming and fishing. The export trade of this port, which is inconsiderable, consists of cattle, hides, beef, butter, linen, and corn. Dundalk is a close borough under the patronage of the p. 233 earl of Roden, whose influence, combined with that of the Right Honourable John Foster, commands the return of members for the county of Louth.19

After dinner, Mr. D., knowing my wish to see as much of the country as possible, proposed a drive, to which I gladly acceded. We visited the Blackrock, a watering place of some note: it is distinguished just now by the presence of Lady Blaney and her elegant daughter. From this place we continued our drive through the estate of Lord Clermont. Great part of this land is good, and it is let for its utmost value: the tenants, however, are said to be less distressed on account of arrears, than are those paying inferior rents on other estates, as the moment it is ascertained that their payments are defective, from inability to make up the wonted demand, they are released from all annoyance as to further claims by immediate removal.

8th. Having last night taken a place to Drogheda in a coach that starts from Dundalk every morning at four, I rose early to‐day, and at the usual hour the coach set off. The first stage to Castlebellingham we got on very well, hut the horses we took from that place could not be kept on the road; several times the coach was very near being overturned; the driver flogged the poor animals most unmercifully; one of them fell down in the street of Dunleer, and in a few minutes expired. The crops along the road to Drogheda appear fine and abundant, but approaching to this place they appear not so heavy as to the northward. The peasantry of the county of Louth are uncommonly strong, robust, and healthy, and rather more respectable p. 234 in their general appearance than many others I have seen; their clothing is of domestic manufacture chiefly.

After breakfast I waited on Mr. Smith, a magistrate, to ask permission to see the prison; this gentleman regretted that indisposition prevented him from accompanying me, but he sent a person with directions to the keeper to admit me. This gaol, like that at Dundalk, is small, but in most other respects is greatly inferior. It is of a square form, surrounded by two walls; there are four yards for felons and misdemeanants, and one for debtors. This prison, though comparatively new, is constructed by no means on an eligible plan, as it affords very imperfect classification, and is wholly deficient in inspection and employment. The tried and untried are generally kept together.

When there are no female prisoners, as is the case just now, the males are put into the female side, and then are pretty well classed. There are only ten dormitories, and two solitary cells. The debtors have only two apartments or cells; and prisoners confined for petty offences have to be marched nearly one‐third of the whole circumference of the prison from their cells to the day‐room, and the same inconvenience takes place in returning them to their cells at night. The infirmary consists of a single ward, in which both males and females must be treated together, should they happen to be sick at the same time, of which, it may at least be supposed, there is a probability: such a case, however, has not occurred since the prison was opened. Mr. M‘Kenna, the keeper, who appears a very intelligent man, says no punishment is half so efficient as solitary confinement.

From the 19th of June to the end of September, each prisoner is allowed two pounds and half of good brown wheaten bread, a quart of butter‐milk, and half a pint of p. 235 new milk per day: the winter dietary consists of six pounds of potatoes, one pound of oatmeal, and three pints of butter‐milk a‐day. Formerly three shillings’ worth of bread a‐week was the allowance.

The county of the town of Drogheda20 comprehends little more than an area of three thousand acres. The town of Drogheda is built principally on the north bank of the river Boyne, about seven miles from its mouth, which is defended by a bar; it is, however, navigable for vessels of considerable burden, and has a good share of trade. Its exports are similar to those of Dundalk, but its corn trade is more extensive: the main article of export is a strong kind of sheeting, known better by the name of “Drogheda linens,” which are manufactured in the town and neighbourhood; this commodity is in great demand, and is entitled to a bounty, under the supervision of the linen board. Timber and deals from Norway, and coal from the opposite coast of England constitute its principal imports; the latter is transmitted into the interior by means of a canal. The town contains many remains of antiquity, which might be reasonably expected from the important part it occupied in the history of the country: part of the palace of King John is still standing, as are also some portions of the parliament house in which Poyning’s laws had been enacted.

I noticed here several small hand‐carts, on which is painted the word “mendicity;” these are drawn through the town, and stop a short time at every door to receive broken victuals for the poor. One of these I observed in its progress through the longest street in the town, (West‐street) p. 236 but saw no contribution offered. At three in the afternoon, continued my journey to Dublin.

9th. Having engaged a jaunting‐car, last night, to Kildare, I was on the road a few minutes after four this morning, and was fortunate in getting an excellent horse. Arrived at Naas at half past nine. A conveyance offering to Maryborough just as I had done breakfast, I took advantage of it, and proceeded thither. The general character of the country through which I have travelled to‐day, being part of the counties of Dublin, Kildare, and Queen’s, is that of being exceedingly level. The county of Kildare21 exhibits specimens of good and bad farming in the extreme. There are many large fields of excellent wheat, and not a few smaller ones not worth reaping. The peasantry are badly clothed, and live most wretchedly.

The cabins exhibit a variety of construction different from those to the northward, being built, the lower half, or better, of the walls, with stone and clay mortar, and the upper part with clay or sods, and coated with a thick covering of straw thatch: a want of cleanliness is remarkable about all of them, even those inhabited by the wealthier class of farmers. A large square in front of each farmhouse, called the bawn, is usually a common receptacle for all sorts of manure collected from the dwelling‐house and cattle‐sheds, and this stock is increased by feeding every description of domestic animals within this square with a most wasteful profusion, apparently systematic.

I attempted to count the number of beggars I met to‐day, as I had sometimes done in Ulster, but found it impossible, p. 237 they were so excessively frequent. Near Naas I met two miserable looking women, accompanied by seventeen children. Queen’s county22 abounds in bog, some of which lies low, and appears marshy for want of a way to discharge the rain‐water. The crops of corn and potatoes look exceedingly well; the peasantry appear badly supplied with the necessaries of life, and every place swarms with beggars, who solicit charity in a manner different from those of the north, where a woful countenance is always presented, and some dire misfortune usually related; but here the application is often made with a smile, and followed by a facetious story, or mirth‐moving display of spontaneous wit.

To an elderly man who accosted me in this strain, I remarked, “You must have a light heart, notwithstanding your distress;” to which he replied, “Yes, Sir, I have a light heart and a thin pair of breeches, and the world for a praty garden,” at the same time slapping his hand against his thigh, which flung aside the skirt of his threadbare mantle, and exposed that portion of his brawny person literally naked. This man happened to have a biscuit which I had given him still in his hand; looking wistfully at me, he asked another; “It is for a sick man,” said he, “who wants it more than I do.” Not having the means of complying with his request, “Then,” said he, chuckling with a sense of internal pleasure, “Phil Corrigan must get this, for I got my supper last night, and he got neither dinner nor supper.” Saying this, he went over to the road side, where a very miserable man p. 238 was sitting, and seating himself down by him, forced him to eat it, at the same time cheering the poor creature’s spirits with some lively remarks upon the ragged group around them.

10th. Engaged a horse last evening to proceed to Philipstown, the servant promised to be ready at four, but it was past five when he made his appearance. The morning was gloomy, and rain was strongly indicated by the cloudy shrouding on Sleibh‐bloom, a chain of mountains, which extend about fifteen miles between Queen’s and King’s counties; the servant seemed anxious to delay the journey, but I was determined to proceed, and departed. Passed through Morett, and arrived at Port‐arlington by ten, a distance of eighteen miles. This little town is situated on the banks of the Barrow, which commences at the foot of Sleibh‐bloom, and winds its course through the neighbourhood of Mountmelick, Port‐arlington, Leacastle, Monastereven, Athy, Carlow, Leighlin‐bridge, and Ross, where it is joined by the Nore, and a few miles lower down by the Suir, terminating at Waterford haven, whence these joint streams pass into the sea. The number of houses in this town is calculated at 375, the population at 2,350. The number of beggars is astonishing. Got another horse, and proceeded to Clonegowan, seven miles; thence to Philipstown23, eleven miles, where I arrived at three in the afternoon.

The country through which I travelled to day‐isto‐day is better watered than any I ever saw, the island of Mauritius perhaps p. 239 excepted. It appears as if nature had portioned out the land of these counties, and determined the boundaries of each portion by a delightful little stream. Fuel is in great abundance everywhere. The land, which is rich and productive, is let usually from three to six guineas an acre; formerly this rent was easily raised, and willingly paid; of late years it has been found very difficult of collection, and in another year, many think, it will be quite impossible. This state of things is rendered still more depressing by the demand of tithe, which is found to bear with peculiar severity upon this part of the country. The rate of tithe, I have been informed, is as follows; wheat, twelve shillings an acre; same for barley and bear; eight to ten shillings for oats; meadow, six shillings and sixpence; and one guinea and a half for one hundred sheep.

Foliated or slaty lime appears greatly to predominate as the substratum; granite and gneiss are met with, the latter of so compact a texture, that it is often polished, and used for chimney‐pieces and other ornamental purposes. There are scarcely any manufactures; solitary individuals have tried to weave both linen and cotton, but soon gave it up. The price of labour is exceedingly low; several of the peasantry were willing to labour for their food through the summer, but could not get employment even on those melancholy terms, consequently they were obliged to beg, or driven to the alternative of committing robberies to save themselves and children from starving. Many of those who led an itinerant life, or had resort to criminal means for support, are at present engaged in the harvest, yet the number of beggars is still immense. Education is at an exceedingly low ebb. I waited on the local inspector to obtain permission to visit the prison, but was not fortunate enough to find him at home, and an engagement p. 240 in Dublin prevented me from remaining another day for this purpose.

11th. Set out at half‐past four, and arrived at Newbury at eight. This being Sunday, the lower classes are dressed in their best clothes; the females appear partial to red ribbons, with which they are decorated in profusion: these ornaments are purchased, one would suppose, at the expence of more comfortable articles of dress; for some girls having their head‐dresses thus bedizened, with large bouquets of wild flowers in their bosoms, had not at the same time either stockings or shoes. Beggars here exceedingly numerous and more importunate than usual. At ten continued my journey to Rathcoffey, thence to Leixlip, and arrived in Dublin shortly after nine in the evening.

13th. Rode into the county of Wicklow24, a distance beyond Bray, and returned to town in the afternoon.

15th. Having engaged a place on the Kilkenny coach, yesterday, I left Dublin at six this morning, the day delightfully fine. Breakfasted at Naas, where the coach was surrounded by beggars of the most squalid appearance, many of whom, as already noticed, evinced great humour in their manner of soliciting charity, and as travellers generally dislike sorrowful complaints, their mode of application appeared by far the most successful. We got into Kilkenney about six.

A considerable part of the road over which I travelled to‐day lay through the county of Carlow25, in which there p. 241 are many delightful situations, and fine houses occupied only by servants or care‐keepers. Slaty limestone and clay‐slate appear to be the prevailing substrata; the houses and cabins are constructed of them with great facility, as their sharp fracture scarcely needs the use of a hammer to give a face, whilst the flatness of the stone makes the pieces lie so even and close, as not to require cement: the fields are enclosed with “dry‐walls” built in a similar manner. Near the town of Carlow, there are two quarries, one of granite, and another of black marble: I had not an opportunity of examining either.

Large parties are employed reaping wheat and barley; the crops of which are lighter here than I noticed any where to the northward. Beggars to‐day not so numerous as formerly, as the harvest gives temporary employment to a great many men; but women with large families cannot earn sufficient by reaping to relieve their children’s cravings; they are therefore compelled to travel the country, trusting to casual charity. From Carlow to Leighlin, the road runs parallel with the river Barrow, which contributes much to the general beauty of the country, and renders the scenery in many places perfectly picturesque.

16th. Spent the whole of this day riding through the country. There is no part of Ireland, nor, perhaps, an equal extent of country in the world, that can afford a livelier interest to the inquirer, than Kilkenny.26 The naturalist, the politician, the philanthropist, will each find material for p. 242 patient investigation. The attention of the mineralogist will be attracted by indications of lead, copper, and silver; beds of sandstone, containing pyrites and oxyde of iron, and frequently glistening with mica and quartzy pebbles, in abundance. Lime in different forms and variously combined, is every where to be met with: marl and calcareous sand have been dug up, and are thought to exist in large quantity. It is much to be regretted that this excellent manure has not more extensively engaged the attention of the farmer.

Marble is found here of every hue, from the jet black to the lightest grey, fantastically tesselated, and often exhibiting organic remains of antediluvian formation. There are also quarries of granite and sandstone flag; but the most useful article of all remains yet to be mentioned—coal, which has long been advantageously raised here, and of which many parts of the country present very promising indications.

The corn crop is good, and that of potatoes is excellent; still the state of agriculture is susceptible of very great improvement. Draining, manuring, and grassing, are too little attended to: the finest and most fertile valleys are reserved for pasture, and this perversion of the use of nature’s bounties follows chiefly from an intention of avoiding tithe; yet the supply of vegetable produce adequate to the vast increase of population is so necessary, notwithstanding this great drawback on the resources of the country, that cultivation is gradually creeping up the hills to meet the wants of the people. Potatoes, wheat, and oats, are the usual order of crops; a second, and sometimes a third crop of oats is taken, after which the ground is neglected for some years. I noticed here and there a patch of flax not much larger than a good‐sized table‐cloth.

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Education has been decidedly making progress during the last ten years, but still a vast majority of the peasantry is grossly ignorant, whilst under these disadvantages many of the children are used to evince talents of the very first order. It is not unusual for members of the same family to devote themselves to all the grovelling toil of husbandry, without being able to shew even a little reading and writing, whilst another more fortunate in education displays an accurate knowledge of the Greek and Latin classics. Instances have been related to me, on most respectable authority, of youths having made considerable progress in mathematics, astronomy, sculpture, painting, and poetical composition, with scarcely any assistance. What a pity that such genius should not have an opportunity of being developed! Had a Newton been born here, the lamp of science might be still unlighted!

17th. Rose early this morning, and took a long ride before breakfast, in a different direction from that which I had taken yesterday. At ten I waited on Mr. Hutchinson, local inspector of the city gaol, who politely accompanied me thither. This prison is built in a narrow street in the middle of the city; the floor six feet below the present level of the street: over it stands the court‐house. Only four classes of prisoners can be accommodated here, there being only four wards for their reception; one of these is occupied by male debtors, another by felons, a third by petty offenders, and the fourth by females for every description of crime. Thus it is evident, that classification is deficient, and inspection is still more so.

There are only three yards for the prisoners to get air and exercise in; the females and debtors have access to the same yard, but at different hours. There is a fourth yard, of which no use can be made, on account of the p. 244 windows of a brewery opening into it. The inconvenience might be obviated by building a wall a sufficient distance from the brewery, and raising it as high as may be found necessary. This has been often represented to the grand jury, who have always treated the subject with neglect. A board of superintendence was appointed some time ago, in which the Earl of Ormond took a distinguished lead. A principal object of this association was to introduce employment: the noble earl supplied spinning‐wheels; Mr. Hutchinson, the inspector, provided flax, and many of the females were engaged in spinning. A respectable woman was engaged at a moderate salary to superintend them, and a schoolmaster was also appointed to instruct the males; but the grand jury refused to present the trifling amount of these two valuable and highly necessary servants’ wages; consequently the laudable purpose was dropped, and the spirit it was intended to excite of course subsided with it. The country should surely be flourishing and happy where the public purse is guarded with such frugal care, and the public morals protected with such patriotic zeal!

The devoted attention of the local inspector forms a pleasing contrast to the prevailing apathy; the cleanliness of the prison, bad as it is, and the respectful demeanour of the prisoners, prove how faithfully his duty is performed. The dietary is one pint of oatmeal, four pounds and a half of potatoes, and a quart of new milk every day, except Sunday, when two pounds of best bread, and a pint of milk, are allowed.

From this place I proceeded to the cathedral, and was introduced to the Rev. Mr. Phillips, who had just finished reading to an exceedingly small audience;—I saw only one, who appeared to be a mechanic, having an apron p. 245 tucked round his waist. The porch of this ancient pile displays a degree of modesty, almost amounting to bashfulness, in the person or persons to whom the management of it has been intrusted. The pious of former times evinced some taste, and took more than ordinary care, in adorning the interior with finely polished marble; but some of the present day have manifested their humility by hiding the whole beneath several coats of whitewash. Portions of this snowy veil have fallen off in several places, and exposed the old vulgar extravagance within, giving an appearance somewhat resembling a large patchwork quilt. It is feared that even these small patches are offensive to certain chaste eyes, and will soon be covered, for there was a bucket of whitewash standing at the gate. The taste here displayed resembles the artist’s skill, who represented the Israelites passing through the Red Sea, and the Egyptians going to be drowned—by daubing the wall uniformly red.

Hence I proceeded to the county gaol, about half a mile from the city. It is a fine building of a square form, with sufficient room to admit of tolerable classification; but it is very deficient as to inspection. There are nine yards, of which, two only can be seen by the keeper or assistants from any part of the prison: in these the worst description of prisoners is very properly kept. Experience has abundantly demonstrated the efficacy of solitary confinement; but, as there are no solitary cells, it is impracticable here. Mr. Phillips, the local inspector, appeared sensible of this want, and stated that he had represented it. It is earnestly to be hoped, that the spirit of economy which refused to pay a matron and schoolmaster for the city gaol, will not extend its pernicious and pitiful influence to this.

In each dormitory is a hole not quite six inches square, for p. 246 the admission of air and light; but they appear by no means sufficiently large for such a purpose, more particularly as the iron doors fit closely, and the whole prison is surrounded by two high walls, which prevent a thorough circulation of air. Employment has been introduced, but it appears to be going on very languidly; there was only one loom, and that did not seem to have been lately used. A school has been established, from which much good may be exacted. The dormitories being placed on the inner side of the corridors, looking into the square, the prisoners of every class are enabled to hold conversation the whole night, if they are so inclined.

It is much to be regretted, that, while this prison was in progress of building, there was no person to offer a little useful advice, by which the last mentioned inconvenience, and some other trifling ones might have been obviated. In long‐continued dry weather there is a scarcity of water: the main sewer has not sufficient fall, which occasions the water‐closets to be sometimes stopped up; and as these are inside the prison, they become offensive; every now and then the main sewer requires to be cleared, and while this operation continues, it is quite a nuisance.

The dietary allowance is nine pounds of potatoes and a quart of new milk a day, for five days; on the intermediate days two pounds of good bread and a quart of milk are issued. This latter is the allowance at present for every day, the potatoes not being considered good. The cost of bread is three‐pence half‐penny, milk three half‐pence a day.

Having examined this place, I visited the house of correction, a large building, capable of containing a great number of persons. The governor’s apartments are in the centre, and on each side is a wing, the right for males, p. 247 the left for females. Delinquents are committed by the judges at assize time, or by the magistrates on ordinary occasions. Wheels and flax are provided for females to spin; and the males are employed sometimes in pounding hemp, sometimes in pulverizing sandstone, but the greater part of their time is spent in idleness. There is no weaving, nor any provision for education, or instruction of any kind to promote moral improvement.

There are four airing‐yards, two solitary cells, two kitchens, three dining‐rooms, four working‐rooms, and four sleeping‐wards filled with cradles, in each of which two or three persons usually sleep: thus thirty or forty persons are every night turned into one room! This injudicious measure alone would be sufficient to invalidate the claim of this institution to the title it bears; but there are others strongly corroborative of the fact, some of which have been mentioned. Having heard that this establishment is quite a hobby with some gentlemen of the grand jury, and many others, I regret, for the sake of humanity, to be obliged to assure them, that it must be remodelled and conducted on a different principle before the morals of any delinquent can be by it reformed or improved. The dietary on a first committal is, nine pounds of potatoes and a penny for milk each day: on a second committal one pound ten ounces of brown bread is the allowance, and water alone for drink: on a third committal, the same allowance as last, and the hair to be cut off.

Adjoining the house of correction is a lunatic asylum capable of containing twenty persons: there are seventeen at present,—nine males and eight females. On the male side there are two corridors, each containing three cells; on the opposite two corridors, containing two cells each. The cells for males are about eight feet square, and each p. 248 contains two beds: the cells for females are twelve feet square. There was nothing among the forlorn tenants of this mansion of wretchedness different from what is met in every such place; but in every one there is enough to make the heart sick, and to fill the mind with lowly gratitude for the enjoyment of those inestimable blessings of which we behold them deprived.

This happening to be the great fair‐day for the sale of frize and various kinds of coarse woollen manufactures, it furnished a good opportunity of seeing the peasantry. Two of the greatest evils under which the poor of any country can labour are scarcity of food, and want of clothing, and every day throughout this inquiry presents innumerable instances of both. Among those, however, now before me, there is certainly no want of clothing, for I observe many of the men wearing two coats, and others three, although the thermometer stands at 79°. It is true, indeed, that there are many others at the same time without any coats, and almost destitute of covering. The entire wardrobe of an ordinary farmer may be seen on his person every day he goes to a fair or market. Some at this moment pass before my eyes wearing two coats, who have neither shoes nor stockings. Conversation appears to be carried on principally in the Irish language, and it is invariably used whenever they have to express emotion or passion. The quantity of wool and woollen manufacture in the fair to‐day, is greatly short of what I had been led to expect.

On the subject of tithe every individual to whom I have spoken regards it as an odious and oppressive tax on industry, and that too of the humblest and most indigent class of the community. A farmer near Inch candidly avowed that he had laid down his land for grazing, to avoid p. 249 this exaction, and that he would continue to do so, although he believed it would be more profitable to raise corn, for which, he said, his land was much better adapted; another between Kilkenny and Callen made a similar declaration. Had an opportunity of seeing the interior of the Earl of Ormond’s magnificent castle. Its noble proprietor does not swell the ranks of the “everlasting absentees.”

At five in the evening left Kilkenny with the Waterford coach. Among the passengers was an intelligent gentleman, whose name, I subsequently learned, is Sir John Kean. Arrived in Waterford at ten, and immediately retired to rest.

18th. Took a long ride into the country, in a westerly direction, to the town of Killottery, and thence south‐west to Newcastle, distant from Waterford about twelve miles. The ground is low and marshy, and the country but indifferently cultivated, considering its proximity to the city. As I went out there were very few persons out of bed, but as I returned the peasantry were in motion. In front of several cabin doors the men were engaged in shaving one another standing; and near them groups of females were sitting on their hams dressing and examining each other’s hair, prior to putting on their Sunday clothes. Such filthy scenes had been familiar to me in Spain, but here they were, in some measure, unexpected; and although the circumstance appeared a strong historical feature in the people’s character, still it was disgusting to be seen. Noticed many children basking in the sun, and some running about, unincumbered with any clothes whatever.

Returned to the city at ten, and after breakfast went to church, where a good congregation of well dressed people were assembled: the part of the church usually occupied by the military, was crowded to excess; and, after p. 250 service, when the soldiers were drawn up outside, their number appeared much greater than I had observed elsewhere.

After church took another ride in a south‐east direction along the Suir, to the lands nearly opposite Ballyhack. The country here is very superior to that which I saw in the morning; but it is disfigured with many wretched cabins, each provided with its reservoir for every description of filth,—manure for the potatoe‐garden. These baleful nuisances have been lately emptied, for their accustomed use, but such deposits will continue to be made a nucleus for contagious matter, until the concurring efforts of an enlightened legislature, and the sympathizing presence of the benevolent gentry, shall bring about a better state of things.

Passing along the Mall in Waterford, about eight in the evening, my attention was attracted by a crowd before a door, and asking the cause of their assembling, I was informed that a sermon was about to be delivered by a Methodist preacher. The door was opened at the instant; a great many respectable looking persons entered, and I walked in also. In a few minutes a young man appeared, and took his station behind a chair, which served as both desk and pulpit. I confess my expectation was not highly raised by his appearance; but I was soon convinced that I had formed a very incorrect estimate of his talents. As he proceeded, his countenance brightened up, and in illustrating some of his arguments, he manifested a knowledge of natural history, mathematics, and astronomy, that I little expected to hear in such a place. The discourse lasted about an hour, and had it continued an hour longer I do not think the patience of one of his auditors would have been too severely taxed.

p. 251

19th. Rode out this morning to Killottery, and thence a few miles towards Muthel, which lies west from the town. The land hereabouts appears of an indifferent quality, and is as indifferently cultivated; the cottages are worse than those I saw yesterday, and the poor are both ragged and neglectful of personal cleanliness, more especially the females. At eleven a. m. called at the house of the inspector, who was not at home; but his servant directed me to another gentleman who, she said, officiated for him; this person also was from home; I therefore went to the city gaol alone.

An idea of this prison can be conveyed in very few words. In classification and inspection it is wholly deficient, and as to employment nearly so. It has three yards, one for male debtors, one for male criminals, and one for females of all sorts, with a small spot for the infirmary. There are no solitary cells, and all the male prisoners are quite idle, and must remain so while this place is used as a prison; for there is no room to erect workshops: all the ground belonging to it would scarcely form one yard of a proper size. The females have the name of being employed in knitting, spinning, and washing; but the construction and confined limits of the building forbid any thing like regular industry.

The pernicious custom of detaining felons upwards of a year after conviction, obtains here. Some years ago, convicts were detained until a batch of seventeen had collected; these were sent off in August 1818: there are seven of that description here at present. There is no school for any class of prisoners. A clergyman of the Established Church and one of the Catholic persuasion attend. The prison allowance is, one pint of oatmeal and half a pint of new milk for breakfast; three pounds of p. 252 potatoes and a pint of sour milk for dinner; three half‐pence worth of bread and half a pint of new milk for supper. Of this gaol I shall only further observe, that its incommodious structure involves the violation of the laws every day; that it is insecure, and that no patching or mending can make it answer any purpose of a prison, except that of mere incarceration.

The county gaol is separated from the foregoing only by the sessions‐house, and is on a much more extensive scale, yet it is very far indeed from what a prison should be, although it has lately been enlarged, and, I believe, improved. Classification and inspection are defective; there are only two yards in which the prisoners can be seen. It would not be quite correct to say there is no employment, for I saw many of the prisoners gambling, and otherwise very improperly employed. There are seven yards in all, but a part of the prison is not occupied, from an apprehension of the building falling in. Convicts here, as in the city gaol, and every other in the country, are detained a long time after receiving their sentence. I have not met any one who could inform me as to the object of this detention. As there is no school established here for the inculcation of good, these condemned felons will prove expert masters for the diffusion of evil. The dietary here is similar to that of the city gaol. It is intended, I believe, to repair some of the defects of this prison, and to enlarge it still more, which may, indeed, improve it, but can make it neither good nor useful.

Visited the house of industry, which appears to be well conducted, and productive of much benefit; there are two hundred and seven persons in it at present. The Catholic clergyman is allowed to perform divine service for those of his communion on Sundays, and the Protestant inmates p. 253 are left to seek religious instruction how and where they please. Some benevolent persons, actuated by a desire of improving the moral condition of these persons, used to attend and read the Scriptures to them; but the practice is said to have excited the displeasure of a dignified individual, who, it might be reasonably supposed, should have felt the strongest interest in promoting it; it has, in consequence of the interposition of authority, been discontinued.

It seems that some of the persons alluded to, after reading the Scriptures, used to expound certain difficult portions of the text, which occasioned the interference just mentioned. In all places where there are persons holding different religious sentiments, it is proper, undoubtedly, to check all unauthorized or officious interpretation of the sacred volume, but the propriety of preventing every one from reading the Gospel to aged persons, of whom, perhaps, none could read for themselves, is not quite so evident. Belonging to this institution, and under the same roof, is a lunatic asylum, in which were thirty‐seven pitiable objects.

From this place I walked to the house of correction, nearly a mile out of town. This building is new, and possesses the rare advantage of having a quantity of land, twenty‐three acres, I believe, attached, in the cultivation of which the male prisoners must generally have healthy and sufficient employment. The females are employed in spinning wool for the use of the prison; the wool is supplied by the city. There are four yards and forty‐one cells. It is exceedingly ungracious, nor less disagreeable, to speak in terms of disapprobation of every thing one sees in a place; but every consideration must yield to truth, p. 254 and truth compels me to say, this place is capable of being improved.

In the first place, the infirmary is built on the most incommodious spot that could have been found on the whole premises; it serves as stairs for prisoners to ascend the wall, and effect their escape: four men escaped on the 21st of July, and were retaken after committing a robbery on a priest of the name of Mony. The infirmary smokes so as to render it impossible to keep a fire lighted in it: there is sufficient room for it to stand in the garden, where these inconveniencies would be obviated, and the patients might enjoy the additional advantage of purer air than they have at present.

There ought to be looms, or some provision for industry within the prison; for when bad weather, or any other cause, prevents the prisoners from working in the fields, they must necessarily be idle, and that should never be permitted. Some mode of education appears indispensably necessary. A little attention to these particulars, however trifling they appear, would greatly promote the usefulness of this institution. Hence I proceeded to the fever hospital,—a commodious structure, well situated, and conducted in a manner as certain to promote the cause of benevolence, as to redound to the credit of its judicious directors.

Spent the remainder of the afternoon in looking at the town, and examining the habitations of the poor; I entered not less than sixty‐three cabins, in not one of which, and they were not selected on account of their exterior attractions, was there any thing indicative of comfort. The floors of some of them are seven or eight inches below the level of the street; the fires were nearly extinguished in a great many, and ventilation is remarkably defective in all. Parts of the roof have rotted in some places, and fallen in, and p. 255 by this miserable means air is admitted to a few, but which, it would seem, the occupiers are anxious to exclude. Very few indeed are provided with any thing that can properly be called furniture. No one surely can wonder that this city should never be entirely free from typhus. The clothing of the poor is, if possible, worse than their dwellings; but I am inclined to think they are better fed than those in many other districts. In the slaughtering season offal is plentiful, and from its cheapness comes occasionally within the reach of the poor.

The city of Waterford27 is advantageously situated for foreign trade, being built on the northsouth side of the Suir, which is here expanded into a magnificent stream, about fifteen miles from the sea. A well‐built quay, upwards of a mile in length, with a sufficient depth of water to admit ships of large burden, is a great convenience for the merchants. The principal exports are beef, pork, and butter; in the quantity of the latter it exceeds any port in the kingdom. A fine wooden bridge, provided with a draw‐bridge, extends across the Suir, and may be said to unite the counties of Waterford and Kilkenny. An inscription in the centre proudly records that this noble edifice was built by Emanuel Cox, “a native of America.” Every lover of Ireland must surely regret that the cultivation of native genius, in every part of the country so exuberant, should be neglected to that degree as to render it necessary to fetch an engineer or architect from America, to construct a thing so simple as a wooden bridge.—On the p. 256 subject of tithe I have endeavoured to gain information from every one with whom I had an opportunity of conversing, and the answers obtained invariably manifested a stronger repugnance to the payment of this demand than was observable in any other part of the country.

20th. Left Waterford this morning with the Limerick mail, and proceeded to Clonmel, where I arrived in time for breakfast. The road leads along the north bank of the Suir, which is well wooded and surrounded by beautiful scenery, nearly the whole way. The morning was serene, the road good, the country rich and well cultivated, and the harvest most abundant: such a combination of circumstances was well calculated to give life to agreeable feelings; but all such were often repressed by seeing vast numbers of fellow‐creatures, more than half naked, who, in many places crowded the road, and consisted almost exclusively of women and children; the proportion of the latter appeared enormous. It is customary in towns, particularly on market days, I know, for beggars to borrow, and even to hire children, that the appearance of a large family may the more strongly excite commiseration; but it is scarcely to be supposed that distressed females would encumber themselves with the children of others in travelling through the country. It would not pay them for the trouble. Some of the most miserable objects I ever beheld came around the coach in the town of Carrick‐on‐Suir; one unhappy woman had a child in her arms, which, she said, had died of want. The child was certainly dead, but whether its death had been occasioned by famine I could not ascertain. It may here be observed, that the cabins in the neighbourhood of Carrick, as well as the peasantry themselves, present the darkest shades for a frightful picture of human misery.

After breakfast I waited on Mr. Robert Grubb, whom p. 257 I found on the road, superintending some improvements which had been commenced for the purpose of giving employment to the poor starving peasantry. It is difficult to say what part of the character of this gentleman is most estimable. Regardless of all petty distinctions of sect or party, the bugbears only of little minds, his whole time is devoted to lessen the sorrows of the afflicted; and for the attainment of this praiseworthy end, his well cultivated mind and unwearied zeal peculiarly qualify him. In company with this gentleman I visited most of the public buildings in the town.

The county of Tipperary gaol is an extensive building; a moderate share of attention would make it a good prison, a quality to which, I regret to say, it has at present but little of a just claim. There is no employment of any sort, nor have the prisoners an opportunity of learning aught but vice. On Sundays divine service is performed in a room much too small to admit all the prisoners, though there is a chapel in the centre of the prison, in which every class may be accommodated, without being exposed even to each other’s view; yet it has never been used. To a question on this subject, the answer returned was, “It would be dangerous to assemble all the prisoners together for that purpose.” I confess I do not clearly understand the meaning of this reply; if, instead of “dangerous,” the word troublesome were substituted, it would perhaps render the thing more intelligible. Mr. Grubb agreed with me in thinking the apprehension of danger quite groundless.

There are ten yards; but three of them are unoccupied, and of course useless, because the gaoler thinks them insecure. In this, like the former objection, I found it impossible to concur. The whole prison is surrounded by p. 258 a wall of considerable height; and outside of that, at a distance of many feet, by another. In the area sentinels are planted, whose connivance, as well as that of the turn keys, would be necessary to effect an escape. As the prison now is, classification is defective; if the three yards were put to use, it would be very complete. A strong spirit of accommodation is manifested towards debtors, whose wives and children are allowed to live in the prison; we noticed several women and children who were said to be thus circumstanced, while other debtors complained that they had been compelled to sleep on the floor without beds.

It struck me that parts of the prison were not so clean as they might have been, and should be: some of the water‐closets were very offensive, though metal pipes lead to them all from a cistern at the top of the building. As the prisoners are doomed to idleness, it would be an indulgence to them to work at the forcing‐pump, and to keep the cistern filled. There are coal stores, and other conveniences, of which no use is made, while some of the sleeping‐cells are filled with coal.

Some distinguished personages, in a fit of ardour, I am informed, undertook the inspection of this prison about two years ago, and attended very regularly for a few weeks; during that time several more humble individuals, who had long shown a disposition to promote its interest, found it necessary to discontinue their attention, which has not since been renewed. Soon afterwards, the zeal of the exalted individuals began to sicken, and in a very little while died outright. Since that time the prison and its inmates appear to have excited but little interest in any class of the community. A late act of parliament, enjoining certain regulations in prisons, has not been carried p. 259 into execution, although the judge of assize (Moore) took much pains to impress upon the proper authorities the necessity of complying with the law in this respect.28

Fifteen felons are under sentence of transportation, some p. 260 of whom have been a long time detained. The gaol allowance is fivepence worth of bread, which the prisoner is permitted to sell the moment he receives it, and a price of 3¾d. is fixed, with which the prisoner purchases potatoes, salt, and milk, at the highest retail prices, and thus sustains a double loss. Would it not be more consistent with the dignity and regularity which ought to be preserved in all public establishments, to fix a proper dietary, and prevent a miserable system of peddling, by which the wretched captive is cheated out of one‐fourth of the pittance humanely allowed by the public?

The House of Industry affords an asylum to a large number of aged and infirm persons of both sexes, most of whom are employed in some way suitable to their infirmities. I saw a great many at work, who were all well clothed, and appeared quite contented. A portion of this house is set apart for the reception of unfortunate and disorderly females, who are kept at work during the period of their imprisonment: I saw about seventy of them spinning. While Mr. Grubb and I were there, the dinner was announced, on which they rose from their work, walked into the dining‐hall, and seated themselves at a long table in a quiet and regular manner: their repast consisted of potatoes, milk, and salt.

Another part of this building is appropriated to lunatics; there are fifty‐four at present. The manner in which these creatures flocked around Mr. Grubb, and his soothing treatment of every one who addressed him, reminded me strongly of the Rev. Mr. Graham, of Lifford. Many of these aliens to social happiness implored my intercession for permission to go and visit a parent,—a sister,—a wife, or a child. Some fibres of nature’s tender cords still remained unbroken. One poor fellow caught me by the p. 261 skirt, and with fervid agitation, asked me, “Why am I kept so long from my Mary? Let me go and see her now.” I endeavoured to get away, but his grasp was firm;—he looked sternly in my face, and exclaimed, “Mary thinks I’m dead—Mary doesn’t think I love her—but you know I love her—every body knows I love her—doesn’t Heaven know I love her? When may I go to her?”—He burst into tears, and seemed torn with agony. I made another effort to release myself from a scene that would have melted a heart of stone; but he seized my hand, pressed it to his lips, and sobbed out,—“Aren’t you the bishop?—do—do, I know you will—go, and tell my Mary, I’ll come to her to‐morrow—and tell her to put little Cain’s green jacket on.” Tears streamed down his cheek;—he anxiously watched for my reply; I bowed assent,—he again pressed my hand to his lips, fell on his knees, and permitted me to get away: I left the spot with feelings which no language can express.

Although I have more than once obtruded this subject on the notice of the reader, I cannot refrain from earnestly hoping, that it may henceforth receive a larger share of attention than has yet been given to it. The most unfeeling heart would sicken at the indescribable misery of some of the receptacles for lunatics, both public and private. Let him who would censure this appeal remember, that not a single ray of joy can illumine the minds of those most unfortunate objects;—that they are shut out from all earthly happiness;—that almost every tie which can bind rational man to existence is severed; and surely his humanity must recognize their claim to have every physical comfort carefully administered. Barbarous and ignoble must be the soul that could dictate unkindness, and cowardly the hand that would wantonly apply the cutting lash, or the galling chain, to a p. 262 brother thus humbled at his feet,—to a fellow‐man formed after the fair image of his Maker, but now, by the mysterious will of Omnipotence, bereft of Heaven’s sublimest gift, man’s brightest gem,—the faculty of reason.

The dispensary, and fever hospital, are now, happily, not much frequented. The mendicity society has done incalculable good; its house affords shelter, and the means of subsistence to many miserable persons who would undoubtedly perish if left to shift for themselves.

In the afternoon, Mr. Grubb accompanied me in a short excursion I was desirous of making into the county of Waterford. The pernicious custom of forming dunghills in front of the cabin doors, and even inside the cabins, formerly so prevalent in Tipperary29, is, I am assured, still practised. Some benevolent individuals have endeavoured to improve the condition of the poor; but their efforts have not been aided, as most of the great, (if the possession of property alone can deserve such an appellation), look on with an indifference inconsistent with the natural warmth of the Irish character, or fly to other countries from scenes which can afford no pleasure, or may damp those agreeable prospects which alone can render luxurious life capable of full enjoyments, but strangers to those delights that touch the soul in making others happy.

With respect to tithes in these parts I have not been able to collect much authentic matter; as far as my information does extend, the demand inspires sentiments of discontent, and even of hatred, not only against the person authorized to receive its amount, but against the whole system, which they look upon with abhorrence, and consider as iniquitous and oppressive. Wholly uneducated and unenlightened, p. 263 they have conceived an erroneous idea, “that if the clergy can get the fleece, whoever chooses may take care of the flock.” If education were to produce even no other effect than that of proving the fallacy of this deep‐rooted opinion, it would be of incalculable benefit to the country, and would at least help to correct that mischievous habit which custom has long made familiar among the lower orders, namely, that of discussing the nature of tithes, with regard to which the humblest peasant who rears a stalk of corn or potatoe, is become a professed casuist, and a confirmed calculator.

21st. Set out this morning on the Cork mail. Among the passengers were a Mr. F——, one of the grand jury of Kilkenny, and Mr. T——, a dramatic gentleman, whose talents are well known in every part of Ireland; I was fortunate enough to get a seat beside the former, and found him well‐informed and conversable. He acknowledged frankly that the “House of Correction” at Kilkenny had been productive of but little substantial benefit to the public. On every topic that came under discussion, his opinions were offered with candour, and tended to counteract that lassitude which frequently attends a long journey on a coach.

The crops are worse, generally speaking, in the country through which I passed this day than in any other part of the south I have yet seen, and the harvest is more backward. In several districts to the northward, the corn was reaped and stacked many days ago; to‐day I noticed many fields of corn far from being ripe. Beggars not quite so numerous, although the cabins of the poor are as bad as I have seen them any where. The mendicant profession on this road appears to assume more independent and systematic character than is observable in other places; huts are constructed along the side of the road, in which the p. 264 beggar sits at ease and accosts the passenger, who flings his charitable offering, without danger of its being lost, to the object of his compassion, as the tenant of the hut is seldom without a female companion, if a man, or a crowd of children, if of the other sex. These temporary habitations are met with on almost every road in Leinster and Munster, but never did I notice them so numerous as on that just mentioned.

The general appearance of the poor, whether begging or working, is truly pitiable; several people labouring in the fields without so much covering as a shirt; a tattered garment fastened round the loins, and covering in shreds only about half the thigh, serves for all. Throughout the summer, work could not be obtained at any wages; and in order to eke out life, the poor were obliged to pawn and sell their rags of clothes; and now they are compelled to go naked. Heaven only knows what will become of them in the winter! This wretchedness is not confined to a single spot; its pressure is felt by thousands, though in some places less severely than in others. The very worst appeared between Clogheen and Fermoy, the road by which the coach travelled through Ballyporeen and Killworth.

It was the fair day of Ballyporeen. The coach passed through at one o’clock, when business is at its height, and the fair is usually full. The name of the town30 bore a corresponding import with its abject appearance. The groups of half naked people, of all descriptions of age and sex, formed an assemblage of the most extraordinary appearance, of which words can convey no representation; yet amidst all the privations with which they appeared to p. 265 have been visited, the notion of a festival seemed to light up an expression of gladness upon every countenance, but their joy served only to make their long‐settled sorrow more conspicuous. The articles for sale were scanty, and of the homeliest sort: three lean cows, some pigs, calves, and sheep in similar condition, formed the live stock. Almost every man and boy was provided with a large stick, or rather club, as if prepared for battle; but the general distress had made them unable to purchase whiskey, so that every concern for a breach of the peace was needless. Even the disposition to enjoy the accustomed dance seemed laid aside,—so altered were the rustic manners by the pressure of penury.

Arrived in Cork about six, and could not procure a bed at any respectable hotel, the town being crowded by persons attending the assizes. It is customary on such occasions to raise the price of every sort of accommodation, for which, however, there appears no necessity, for the hotel charges in every part of the country are most exorbitant; and wherever the treatment was the filthiest and worst, there I have invariably noticed the charges to be the highest. I have been sometimes obliged to stop at places where I preferred sleeping on the floor to occupying the lively bed which was prepared for me; and yet my bill at those places was usually greater than at Gresham’s, in Dublin, where the accommodation is certainly first rate.

22d. The proprietor of the Chamber of Commerce here procured me a bed last night at the house of a shopkeeper; and at my wonted hour I arose this morning, and walked through the city. Visited the market, which exhibited complicated misery; it was, in fact, a moving mass of rags and dirt, swearing, obsceneness, and fighting. Two women fell out about carrying a basket of vegetables that p. 266 had been purchased, and tore each others clothes all to pieces; they were both streaming with blood, and more resembled the idea one would form of furies, than rational beings. This incident gave rise to several other battles, in which many persons of both sexes appeared to be engaged; all were at once umpires and combatants.

Walked through some of the lanes, between six and seven o’clock, and visited several cabins after the families had risen. I was desirous of knowing how many persons had taken refuge in those places for the night, but I found the people very unwilling to gratify my curiosity, and in suffering their fears to be overcome, they intimated their expectation of “a treat” for their civility. The following table exhibits a concise view of the result of my inquiries, in eleven houses, on this occasion.

Number of Houses.	Number of Families.	Persons Present.		Persons Absent.		Total in each House
		Males.	Females.	Males.	Females.
1	2	5	8	2		15
2	3	10	7	3	1	21
3	1	3	1			4
4	4	12	15	2	1	30
5	4	11	12	1	2	26
6	3	9	6	3		18
7	2	5	8			13
8	4	13	11		1	25
9	1	2	4			6
10	3	7	7	3	2	19
11	5	8	12	5	2	27
Total	32	85	91	19	9	204

If the statement of the persons from whom the foregoing information was obtained may be credited, those cabins p. 267 average a population of eighteen and a half to each; and even if they deceived me as to the persons belonging to them who were then absent, still those whom I myself numbered give an average of sixteen to each house: it should be remarked also, that all these persons were Catholics. I inquired in each cabin how many had slept there the preceding night, but could only obtain answers from two of them, namely, the third and fifth; the question appeared to alarm and displease all the others: one man observed, “I suppose you are a Millstreet Peeler (the term applied to police‐officers,) come here to look after some of the innocent blades; but take my honest word for it, I have nothing to do with it, nor never giv’d one of them a mail’s mait, nor a bit of my blanket.”

This table is not introduced for the purpose of determining an estimate of the whole population; for I am well aware how very difficult it is to arrive at any thing near the truth in such an undertaking, that, in fact, correctness is in most cases absolutely impracticable. When in the north of Ireland, some of my relations gave me the number and names of certain families, to whose houses I afterwards went, and put the question “How many are you in family?” but in no instance was the answer correct,—it was always under the actual number. Whatever be the cause of this disposition to represent their families as being smaller than they really are, it is quite certain that it pervades all the lower, and even middle classes of the Catholics in every part of the country; and that the poorer orders of Protestants are influenced by the same spirit, but in a much less degree.31

p. 268

I had visited Cork in January, 1817, since which time, it appears greatly altered, and altered for the worse: several houses have been added, the population has wonderfully increased, and distress has more than kept pace with them both. Walking through the town, I met a highly valued old friend, whom I had not seen for several years; he invited me to his house in the country; I explained to him that the sole object of my visit to Cork was to see the people, and gain correct information on that and other points. He promised to assist my views respecting both, and we drove out of town in the afternoon.

24th. My friend, having a yacht, invited me to have a sail through the harbour at Cove, and along a part of the coast. We visited the Surprise, a frigate fitted up for a convict depôt, and afterwards a convict ship, called the Countess of Harcourt, about to proceed to New South Wales with male convicts. Her complement of prisoners had nearly arrived, and the judicious arrangements of the surgeon‐superintendent, Dr. Armstrong, had already produced regularity; they were all as tractable as sheep; many of them were even quite cheerful. They might well be contented;—it was a happy change for them.32 The condition of a convict in New South Wales is ten thousand times more comfortable than that of a peasant in Ireland,—in fact, there can be no comparison between them.

Having remained with my friend five days, and seen most places of any interest in the neighbourhood, I determined on prosecuting my journey. At seven in the morning p. 269 of the 27th, I left Ring, and proceed to Cork by water, a distance, I believe, of nine miles; the scenery was replete with beauty. The country rises boldly on both sides, giving the idea of a first‐rate river winding its majestic course through a romantic glen richly planted, and thickly—rather too thickly, indeed,—bestrewed with beautiful cottages.

28th. Part of yesterday and the whole of this day have been spent in visiting the prisons, of which it is painful to speak or to think. In front of the Bridewell there are logs of wood, one end placed against the wall and the other extending into the street, by which the building is prevented from tumbling down,—an event most desirable, were the prisoners not to be involved in the ruin; for a worse prison cannot exist;—I mistake, the city gaol is worse, though not so dilapidated.

Here females of all descriptions, young and old,—novices in crime and accomplished offenders, are squeezed into a room twenty‐four feet and a half by twenty‐three and a half, without sleeping room or yard: here they cook and wash, and instruct each other in every thing that is infamous. The male prisoners are not quite so wretchedly off; they have three apartments. The superintendent, the Rev. Dr. Quarry, has made great exertion to organize a school, and not without success, although the only place in which it can be held, is the guard‐room among the soldiers. A new gaol is being built about a mile out of town, which ought to be a good one. The dietary is, two pounds of best wheaten bread, and three pints of skimmed milk a day.

The county gaol is not quite so bad as the former; and as a considerable addition has been made, on an excellent plan, which will soon be ready for the reception of prisoners, p. 270 it is hoped the manifold evils of the former can now be avoided. I had an opportunity of conversing with Robert Costello, and the celebrated Captain Rock, Walter Fitzmaurice; both under sentence for the abduction of a young lady, to which, it appears, they were instigated by a monster named Brown, who has yet escaped the hands of justice. A school has been established here for several months, and has produced much good; many have learned to spell and read who previously understood nothing but Irish. The very liberal arrangements that have been made for the erection of prisons, give strong ground to hope that something like prison discipline may at last be introduced.

It would be uncandid to leave Cork without offering a justly‐merited tribute of admiration to the talents and address of some of its cooks, as well as the magnificent spirit manifested by certain citizens who encourage them. I remember, the last time I was in Calcutta, to have heard the extravagance of a gentleman greatly spoken of, who had a pie made of the roes of six hundred mangoe fish, which were said to have cost a rupee each. What an exalted idea would not our Asiatic friends entertain of a place, where a certain dish costs upwards of fifty thousand pounds? There is one preparing, not far from Cork, which has already cost more than forty thousand pounds, and will reach sixty thousand pounds, by the time it is ready for use. I have seen this huge pie, and walked round it: its walls, or partitions, are numerous, curiously formed, and cannot fail to answer some of the purposes for which they were designed; a single one of them is said to have cost twenty thousand pounds; the material of which it is formed was manufactured under the superintendence of a great grandson of Esculapius, who sold a good share of the spice with which this enormous dish is so highly seasoned. How p. 271 delightful to have a finger in such a pie!—There must surely be sweet picking on some of the bones!

29th. Secured a place yesterday on the Tralee Mail‐coach, and set out this morning at an early hour. When we had proceeded about a mile, one of the springs gave way, which obliged us to wait until the coachman returned to Cork and brought a smith to repair it. A very few miles to the westward of Cork, the country wears a rugged face, is badly cultivated, and exhibits a frightful population. Breakfasted at a little town called Macroom, which had been the theatre of distress, discontent, and disturbance last winter; the number of beggars that surrounded the coach, during this short time, exceeded any thing I had before seen. Men and women of all ages stood in a throng; the moving appeal of the females, contrasted with the silent, haggard aspect of the men, filled the breast with horror and compassion. Amidst all their wretchedness, these hardy tenants of the hills seemed to feel deeply the debasement of poverty; each man carried a stick, an accustomed companion, which had given occasional importance, perhaps, in the day of comparative comfort, among rivals at the fair or market; and even now it seemed an object as cherished as their last remaining strip of clothing.

Just before the coach started, two soldiers came up. They appeared to engage strongly the attention of the ragged crowd that stood requesting charitable relief. One of these, tossing the tattered great coat he wore, off the upper part of his arm where it hung upon his shoulders, said: “’Tisn’t long, Emund, since them fellows wouldn’t flourish about here in that way.” “No,” said his companion, “you may say that; and if they’re wise, they wont stay here long.” A third exclaimed, “They’re all blood‐suckers, and have no call here.” Many others p. 272 muttered something in Irish, and all appeared to unite in execrating the unoffending soldiers.

Stopped a few minutes in Millstreet, where the beggars were as numerous as at Macroom, and looked, if possible, even worse: a great proportion of them were either blind or pretended to be so. The country still badly cultivated, and wearing a desolate appearance; the cabins excessively wretched. Met a great many little farmers driving their stunted horses with back‐loads of butter, three casks each, to the Cork market. In this way, almost all the butter made in Kerry is conveyed to Cork, each horse carrying about three hundred weight,—a distance sometimes of more than a hundred miles.

Arrived in Killarney about three in the afternoon, and hearing that Dr. Elrington, Bishop of Limerick, had arrived for the purpose of holding a visitation, and was then in the church, I went thither. Several very interesting facts were elicited, which, were I here to detail, might have the appearance of invidiousness. An extraordinary anecdote, related by the Rev. Dean Bond, may be permitted. The reverend gentleman stated, that in the parish of Brusna there is not a single Protestant, and only one individual who can speak English. He also stated, that, in the year 1795, Admiral Moriaty interested himself to get a church erected. When it was finished, which happened to be on a Saturday, the key was given to the clergyman, with a request that he would go the following day, and read the service if he found any one there. He went accordingly, and could find neither people to preach to, nor church to preach in. The Catholics, he said, had pulled it down, and in one night carried it all away!

The visitation terminated before five, and most of the clergymen dined with the bishop; a small party, however, p. 273 dined at the hotel, where I was one. Desirous of gaining local information from such good sources, I put some general questions, which introduced a conversation, in which the state of the country, and the condition of the people were discussed. The distress of the poor, and inability to procure employment, were admitted by every one; but the ignorance and superstitions of the lower orders were urged with pertinacity, and the natural character of the Irish was represented in colours somewhat darker than I thought it deserved.

A circumstance of a trivial nature occurred, which for the moment tended to remove all difference of opinion. A poor fruit woman came into the room, and offered “Kerry pippins” for sale, declaring, “there isn’t betther in the known worl.” None of us seemed inclined to part with our money. “They’re only a fippenny a dozen, plase your honour: I’ll give you a baker’s dozen for a fippenny, and God knows I want it; for my husband hasn’t a bit of work this six long weeks.” She praised her “Kerry pippins” so loudly, and solicited for “a one fippenny” so earnestly, that the Rev. Mr. Matthews could not refrain from purchasing. He took a dozen at the price demanded, laid down the money, and the poor woman departed highly thankful. The apples did not realize the high character she had given of them; we all had partaken of them, and all taxed her with untruth. “There is nothing like truth or honesty in one of them” was just uttered, when the fruit‐woman again made her appearance, quite out of breath. She exclaimed, “O Sir, you giv’d me a guinea.” Mr. Matthews replied “I could not have given you a guinea, for I had no gold in my pocket.” She insisted on it, and stepping to the table, laid it down. It was twilight at the time, but a candle happening to be brought in, the reverend p. 274 gentleman exclaimed: “It is certainly half‐a‐guinea; have had it a great many years, but did not know it was in my pocket: I cannot imagine how it came to be there.” A gentleman present drily observed, “There is something that strongly resembles honesty in that poor woman’s behaviour.”

30th. Rose at four, and walked directly towards the lakes. Early as was the hour, I was pestered with poor fellows offering themselves as guides; I accepted the services of one, and was attended by five others, each striving to do something for me that might entitle him to a trifle. I returned at nine, a good deal fatigued. Having some doubts whether I had not misunderstood the anecdote related yesterday to the bishop by the Rev. Dean Bond, I had an opportunity this morning of being fully satisfied, as I was so fortunate as to meet him and a great many other clergymen at breakfast. He told it again, and in the very words as I had written it down.

I had made some inquiry about the apple‐woman who returned the half‐guinea last night, and found the story she told about her husband being out of work, perfectly correct: she happened to be in the house at the time, and I spoke to her on the subject. She declared that she could not keep the money, and be happy. “The priest,” said she, “would do nothing for me, and God would not forgive me; I am a hundred times happier than if I did keep it.” The poor soul seemed perfectly delighted with something I said expressive of approbation or praise.

I was favoured this forenoon with an opportunity of looking over the accounts of the committee for the distribution of charity; they appeared to be kept with great regularity, but many of the poor are complaining that they have not been impartially treated. It would be quite impossible p. 275 to please all. In the course of conversation after dinner yesterday, the Rev. Mr. Dowling represented the state of the peasantry in his part of the country, (Caher‐civeen) in a manner so interesting, at the same time politely offering me an invitation, that I determined to accompany him, and a little after four we set out.

The first thing that struck me, as we passed through the country, was seeing great quantities of potatoe‐ground turned up; whole fields are dug out, and but few are untouched. After leaving the town of Killarney, and getting beyond the lakes, the country puts on a wild appearance, being heathy, destitute of wood, and very badly and sparingly cultivated;—the cattle and sheep lean and diminutive. About seven arrived in a village, called Killorglan, which, for dirt and dreariness, may vie with any inhabited place in the universe; here we were to remain for the night.

An old black oak chest was opened, and some tea‐cups with other “splendours” of the kind were taken out, which, I fancy, had not seen day‐light for many months. Our landlady observed, “I washed them well, but I’ll wash them again, if you like.”—Tea was brought to us ready made. Had there been a blackthorn hedge, or any hedge or shrub in the neighbourhood, I could have readily believed that our “tea” had grown there. After this feast, one bed was prepared for Mr. Dowling and me. It is a common thing, in this country, for two travellers, even of respectability, to sleep together; on this occasion I preferred the floor, and never did I sleep more soundly.

31st. Had a long walk before breakfast. This repast consisted of eggs, tea, and toast; the first were fresh and could not be dirty; the others were the best the place could afford. Left this hotel at nine, and travelled twenty‐one p. 276 miles over a bad road, which is the first I have seen in Ireland. I think it physically impossible for human beings to exist in a worse plight than are most of those in I saw to‐day. Some of them had commenced digging their potatoes, almost as soon as the bulb was formed; and now almost every little garden, the cotter’s sole estate, is exhausted,—the winter’s hope has vanished; want stares them in the face;—their emaciated bodies are uncovered; and nothing can be earned in the way of employment. Surely this is consummate misery! Can imagination picture any thing more?

Amidst so much poverty I was surprised to meet so few beggars, but a little reflection explained the cause. So prevalent is distress, that mendicants might go into twenty cabins, and there get nothing but condolence; they, therefore, spare themselves the trouble and fatigue of travelling about the country for nothing; their common phrase is, “One may as well sit idle as work idle.” Whenever we passed a cabin, the number of ragged females, and children frequently stark naked, who ran after us for miles asking charity, too plainly demonstrated the heart‐rending calamity that has overspread the country.

Mr. Dowling appeared to be known to every person as we passed. Great numbers came to complain to him that they had made repeated applications for relief from the charity, and had spent many days in vain expectations on that account. One man shewed a summons issued against him because he complained of the partial manner in which he had been treated a few days before. We were overtaken on the road by a gentleman named Blennerhasset, a landed proprietor in that neighbourhood, who stated that the complaints of his tenants with respect to the distribution of the charity were very numerous.

p. 277

Arrived at the glebe‐house, Caher‐civeen, about three o’clock. Being perfectly a stranger in this part of the country, I was astonished to hear that in the course of the evening several persons had come for the purpose of speaking to me. They were all desirous of making complaints relative to the distribution of the charitable fund, with which I assured them I had nothing whatever to do: they manifested much disappointment, and even went away with evident reluctance and discontent.

1st. Had an opportunity, as usual, of seeing something of the country before breakfast, which differs in no respect from that spoken of yesterday; poverty and nakedness apply equally to land and people. Went to church this forenoon, and numbered the congregation very easily. There were seven persons altogether, including the clergyman’s wife, two children, and myself. Close to the church is a Catholic chapel, which I observed could not contain above one‐third of those who assembled in the morning to worship: there is one much more capacious being built in in the neighbourhood.33 After mass, the number that crowded round Mr. Dowling’s house to make complaints respecting the charity, was quite amazing. I repeatedly assured them that I was only travelling for my private gratification, and had no concern with public affairs; but their clamour grew louder; and Mr. Dowling suggested the propriety of hearing the representations of a few of them the following day, to which I consented; and they went away with as much apparent delight as if their grievances, whether real or imaginary, had been already redressed. p. 278 Several assured me that the charity oatmeal had been kept so long, and so little attention had been paid to its preservation, that it was damaged and unfit for use. I went this evening to ascertain the fact, and found the assertion wholly groundless,—the oatmeal is as good as need be. It is a thousand times better adapted to the use for which it is intended, than is the house it is stowed in, which happens to be the prison, and is nearly as bad a one as can be found in the country.

2d. At an early hour this morning a crowd assembled in front of Mr. Dowling’s house, and after breakfast a few were admitted. The representations of these persons were unanimous in substance, but lest what they advanced should lose any part of its importance, Mr. Dowling, who is a magistrate, examined them severally upon oath, which they voluntarily took as they came forward. They stated, that through the pressure of severe want they were compelled to dig up their potatoes at times when it was physically impossible they could do so with any benefit, but rather with a ruinous waste of that resource in future wants; and that many of them with numerous families had to subsist on even that miserable and worse than scanty supply for an almost incredible length of time;—that when the charitable distribution took place, they received occasional relief in return for daily work, at reduced wages; but that the relief so extended was virtually only about one half the amount of the order obtained from the distributors:—some declared, in the same solemn manner, that they were refused either provisions or work, whilst both were afforded to other persons like themselves, who were more fortunate in obtaining relief:—but all their declarations bore upon one point, namely, that they had not experienced relief to that extent, nor with that wholesome impartiality which the p. 279 subscribers must have had in contemplation. As this information involves some delicacy, though much of public interest, I have given the matter thus summarily, leaving the motives or merits of the proceeding as it stood between the parties concerned.

While these inquiries were going on a gentleman came in, Captain Berrell, revenue surveyor of the island of Valencia, and in the course of conversation stated that he had subscribed three pounds towards a fund to provide for the poor; and when potatoes arrived for that purpose, he had recommended one man as a fit object for relief, but he was refused; for which reason he would not again subject himself to a similar humiliation. This gentleman gives it as his opinion, that, from the manner of distributing the provision, it would have been much better had none at all ever arrived in that part of the country, and that the poor will be worse off next year. As many were driven to shift for themselves, and subsist on herbs and weeds, he thinks others might perhaps have done so too; whereas by constantly attending in hope of getting relief, many lost their time, and were obliged, after all, to return to to their cheerless homes, and embrace their wretched families with tears, all the solace left them. Without money, he further observes, they could seldom obtain any thing, be their wants ever so urgent.

In the course of the forenoon, Mr. Spotswood, a magistrate for Valencia, came in, and remarked that most of his tenants had been refused relief; that many of them have made affidavits of the fact before him; and that he himself would have very little hesitation in swearing that every one of them is true, as he knows the persons by whom they were made, and never suffered any one of them to make an affidavit without carefully examining him p. 280 on the subject. About this time one of the persons who came forward with their complaints, and whose appearance was somewhat superior to the others, produced a large bundle of papers purporting to be affidavits, which on examination appeared to have been sworn before the Rev. Michael Dowling, and John Spotswood, Esq.; these documents were accompanied by a written paper, now in my possession, of which the following is a copy:

“Affidavits, by different individuals complaining of having received none, or not a due proportion of the charity provisions imported by the London Committee for the relief of the Irish poor.

	Affidavits.
“In the parish of Valencia	109
—————— Killinane	49
—————— Prior	70
—————— Glenbegh	73
—————— Cahir	48
—————— Dromid	32
—————— Killermulagh	11
The number given Mr. Warmington to lay before the London Committee	84
Total	476”

Had I remained here some time longer, and been disposed to seek for information avouched in this manner, I could have collected materials for a volume. Some statements relative to smuggling are reserved for another place. This happening to be the fair‐day in the little town of Caher‐civeen, I went to see the country people assembled; and never did I see a village fair so crowded. p. 281 There were a good many black cattle and sheep, both of a diminutive growth; but I was informed there were no buyers. I saw a heifer, a year and a half old, disposed of for nine shillings, and that in payment of an old debt: I saw a lamb also several months old, which brought only twenty‐five pence. Some idea may be formed of the depreciated state of things at this period, from the fact, that the Rev. Mr. Dowling received but one pound nine shillings, out of three hundred pounds due and to be paid on this very day for account of tithe.

In the course of the afternoon a battle took place, in which about a dozen persons of both sexes were engaged, and mauled one another without the least mercy. One man appeared to be an object of general hostility, and he defended himself with wonderful address; but the prowess of a woman vanquished him at last. This Amazon took off her apron, and enclosed in it a large angular stone, and winding this terrific catapult two or three times round her head, she then let fly at the head of her towering antagonist, still holding the ends of the apron in both her hands. The blow brought him to the ground streaming with blood; it was not necessary to repeat it; he lay along as senseless as a log. I was not able to learn the cause of the quarrel, but was told they were all Catholics.

Captain Berrell had formerly commanded a merchant‐ship, and touched at several foreign ports, some of which I had myself visited since his time, which served to bring us more speedily acquainted. He invited me to accompany him to Valencia; having accepted his invitation, we departed about seven, and did not arrive till near ten, the tide being against us. He told me that Mrs. Berrell was descended from the ancient kings of Munster; and her p. 282 magnificent hospitality, together with her dignified easy manner, appeared strongly corroborative of the assertion.

3d. Although brought up to the sea, Captain Berrell has proved himself an excellent farmer, and in that respect sets an example to his neighbourhood. He showed me a large tract of deep bog planted with potatoes, which promised as good a crop as any in the country: sea‐sand forms the principal ingredient in the manure by which this land has been reclaimed. I was favoured this morning with an opportunity of copying a chart of the Island of Valencia made by Captain Berrell himself, in which the soundings in every part of the harbour are laid down. After breakfast the captain’s two sons accompanied me in a ride nearly round the island: we called at the house of the Right Honourable Maurice Fitzgerald, where the oatmeal provided for charitable distribution is deposited. About seven tons are still remaining, and the meal is in good condition, although I had been assured it was all spoiled. Indeed, great care and pains appear to have been taken for its preservation; it had been kept in an upstairs room, but the floor gave way, and it was removed to a store‐room, which being considered unsafe, it was brought back again, and deposited in a parlour.

The accounts from beginning to end were shown me, and they appeared to be kept with great exactness. Nothing can be less enviable than the task imposed on the members of this and the neighbouring district committees; they have undoubtedly devoted much of their time to discharge the duties of humanity, and no one can question the fact, that vast numbers of distressed individuals have had their sufferings alleviated by the distribution of the charitable funds placed at their disposal.

p. 283

We afterwards visited a slate‐quarry, in which several persons are employed; their operations appeared to evince very little of that skill which is necessary to give any hope of success. Valencia exhibits the appearance of nakedness to the full extent of that term, similar to those parts of Kerry already noticed; but in proportion to its size it seems to be better cultivated, and more thickly inhabited. In the course of our ride numbers of poor persons of both sexes flocked around us, earnestly pressing on our attention several affidavits descriptive of peculiar distress, and expressive of disappointment experienced with regard to charitable relief: these documents bore the signature of Mr. Spotswood, the magistrate already mentioned, and of the Rev. Mr. Warburton, the rector of Valencia. In praise of this latter gentleman I had heard that the public voice was unanimous, which made me the less unwilling to peruse any papers recommended by signatures so highly respectable. I shall take leave to copy one or two of those affidavits, leaving the reader to form what opinion may seem most fit upon the tenour of each.

(Copy.)

“County of Kerry
to wit.

By John Spotswood, Esq., a magistrate for said county. The affidavit of Johanna Driscoll, of Valentia, in the barony of Ivrah, and in said county:

“Who came before me this day, and, being duly sworn on the Holy Evangelists, deposeth, that her family is seven in number; that the support of said family cost her this year one pound and two pence; that she was obliged for want of money or credit to commence to dig potatoes on the first day of July last; that during that time since she dug to the amount of ninety‐two spades of potato ground; and p. 284 that she only got five pottles of charity meal without payment. Sworn before me this first day of August, 1822.

(Signed) “J. SPOTSWOOD. (Signed) “JOHN WARBURTON,
“Rector of Valentia.”

her
“Johanna x Driscoll.”
mark

(Copy.)

“County of Kerry
to wit.

By John Spotswood, Esq., a magistrate for said county. The affidavit of David Murphy, of Valentia, in the barony of Ivrah, and in said county, labourer:

“Who came before me this day, and, being duly sworn on the Holy Evangelists and examined, deposeth, his family consists of five in number; that he has no means to support said family except his daily hire; that the support of said family cost him this present year one pound fourteen shillings and three halfpence; that after consuming said sum, he was, through mere want and necessity, obliged to commence to dig potatoes on the seventh of July; that since that time he has dug to the amount of forty spades of potato ground, and that after making several applications for some part of the charity meal, he got none except what he paid for, notwithstanding all his distresses. Sworn before me this first day of August, 1822.

(Signed) “J. SPOTSWOOD. (Signed) “JOHN WARBURTON,
“Rector of Valentia.”

his
“David x Murphy.”
mark

I shall trespass on the reader’s patience with only one more, which was presented by a person whose appearance p. 285 indicated the last degree of wretchedness; it runs as follows:

(Copy.)

“County of Kerry to wit.

“By John Spotswood, Esquire, one of His Majesty’s justices of the peace for said county:

“The affidavit of Catherine Connor, alias M‘Carthy, of the island of Valentia, barony of Ivragh, and in said county, who came before me this day, and being duly sworn on the Holy Evangelists, deposeth and sayeth, that her family consists of ten in number; that the support of said family cost her this present year six pounds fifteen shillings and five pence; that after consuming the entire of that sum for their support, she was obliged to commence digging potatoes on the seventh day of July, and continued to dig since, and that she dug seventy‐one spades length34, and got no part of the donation, except what she paid for. Sworn before me this thirty‐first day of July, 1822.

(Signed) “J. SPOTSWOOD.”

her
“Catherine x Connor.”
mark

At the time I had made up my mind to accompany Mr. Dowling to Cahir, it was my intention to cross over to Valencia, thence to Dingle, and on to Tralee, whither my portmanteau had been forwarded from Killarney; but p. 286 a heavy swell rolling into the bay, prevented boats from passing; I was on that account compelled to shape my course for Cahir.

4th. Mr. Dowling having offered to accommodate me with a horse, I set out this morning before five, and arrived at Killorglan by nine, after as miserable a journey as can be imagined. It rained heavily, and blew quite a hurricane, by the force of which the horse I rode was several times blown into the ditch. I had some knowledge of the entertainment of this place; I expected little comfort, and was not disappointed. Although drenched with the incessant rain, I was obliged to take my breakfast, such as it was, in a room without any fire. When I last breakfasted here, the contents of an egg happened to be let fall upon the oak‐table, which still remained in the same place, and had assumed the hardness of cement; I have no doubt, from the general state of circumstances, that a traveller going that way some years hence, may find it in a high state of preservation. At ten, continued my journey across a range of moderately high mountains, during which I encountered more boisterous weather than in the early part of the day. At half‐past twelve arrived in Tralee. In the neighbourhood of Cahir and Valencia, some of the materials for building, such as stone, sand, and slate, are found in abundance, but there is no appearance of lime, and timber must be imported.

Having got rid of my wet clothes, I called at the house of the local inspector of the prison, the Reverend Mr. Hurley, but was not fortunate enough to find him at home. I went alone to the prison, where I was equally unsuccessful, meeting neither the gaoler nor the principal turnkey; an assistant, however, conducted me through the prison. This edifice was opened for the reception of p. 287 prisoners in 1817, and consequently is nearly new. I was a good deal surprised to find the man who went round with me very eager to draw my attention to every thing which he considered a defect, whether in the construction or management of the prison; I had generally observed persons of this description anxious to gloss over and extenuate faults.

It required very little penetration to discover the defects of this prison, as they lay open to the observation of the most superficial observer, without officiousness on the part of any one else. Classification, inspection, employment, and education, are all in a state of deficiency. The day‐rooms are described as being so smoky when a fire is kept up, that no one can remain in them; I saw one in this condition. There being no regular place for cooking, the prisoners are obliged to cook for themselves the best way they can, which is usually at all hours of the day, either to suit their habits or convenience, and this keeps the place constantly dirty. The dietary is ten pounds and a‐half of potatoes, and a quart of skimmed milk a‐day, during five days each week; for the other two days, three pennyworth of best wheaten bread, and a quart of milk each day; some of the prisoners showed me their allowance of milk, which they complained of as being sour; and there was good ground for the complaint, for it was quite unfit for use.

Returning to the hotel, I met the under‐sheriff, who walked with me to the old gaol, in an apartment of which four lunatics were confined, chained to the wall. They were thought too furious to be taken out for the purpose of exercising either mind or body, and nothing like employment had been tried: it is feared that their convalescence will be very tedious. The Reverend Mr. Hurley called on me in p. 288 the evening, and expressed regret that he was not at home when I came, and signified a wish that I would again visit the prison with him the following morning, to which I readily agreed.

5th. Mr. Hurley came shortly after nine; and our first visit was to the secretary of the central committee, who happened to be from home. We next went to the house of a merchant, with whom the accounts had been deposited: this gentlemen laid them all before us, and took some trouble to make me clearly understand the principle on which they had been kept. I have more than once had occasion to express the satisfaction I felt at looking over accounts of this description; and, as far as I am capable of judging, these have been kept with great accuracy and impartiality; yet, even here, several of the poor are complaining.

From this we went to the gaol, and visited every part of it. During our stay a poor woman was brought in, committed for stealing threepence‐worth of food. Several of the female prisoners made importunate and very impudent demands for charity. On looking over a book in which persons, visiting the gaol, are requested to put down any remarks that occurs to them, I observed the name “Thomas Spring Rice.” Having heard much of that enlightened gentleman’s talent and zeal, I was induced to peruse the whole of his remarks, which are made at considerable length, and in a very masterly manner. The first paragraph is so admirably descriptive of the inaptitude of this establishment to its end, that I am tempted to enrich my page by giving it a place.

“It is very much to be lamented, that the very considerable sum which the county gaol of Kerry has cost, should have been expended on a design totally inapplicable p. 289 to a large prison: but even if the plan had been an eligible one, the scale on which it is built is totally inadequate to the number of criminals generally committed for trial. Seven and eight persons, it appears, are sometimes confined within a cell, originally intended for one prisoner only. There is but one staircase for the entire prison; one chapel, in which criminals and debtors, males and females, the tried and the untried may communicate together without due restraint. It will be found that this intercourse, as well as that which takes place from the windows of one class and the yard of another, must endanger, if it does not defeat the successful proceedings in many trials. The supply of water is very ill managed; it neither affords a mode of cleansing the sewers, nor does it provide proper labour for the criminals. The beds are of the most dangerous, expensive, and objectionable kind,—the want of any description of gaol cloathing, or of employment,—these furnish a list of objections to the gaol of Tralee, as at present constituted, such as rarely can be brought against a modern prison.”

I had the pleasure of meeting the physician of the prison, Dr. O’Connell, whose polished manners and well‐informed mind must make him a great acquisition to the society of Tralee. Intending to go on to Tarbert this evening, I had ordered a gig, which was just announced when a letter was presented to me, addressed, “To the Inspector of Prisons.” I handed it over to Mr. Hurley, local inspector, who was then with me; but after perusing it, he observed, “This is intended for you, it contains complaints against me.” The prisoners, erroneously supposing that I was an inspector of the gaols, had addressed to me certain complaints against Mr. Hurley, who regretted exceedingly that I could not remain another day to gratify him with being present at an investigation of those charges. p. 290 I had little doubt they were unfounded; for I had noticed, the preceding day, something like a hostile or party spirit manifested towards that gentleman, by some of the attendants and prisoners.

I was aware that the local inspector had, on several occasions, received the thanks of the grand jury;—had his public conduct been less meritorious, it is more than probable he would have been a greater favourite with those amongst whom the complaint originated: the prisoners appear to be only the tools of others more deeply interested. Mr. Hurley assured me that the complainants should be heard by competent authority, and that a copy of the report thereon should be forwarded to me.35

At 2, p. m. I set out and travelled northward, the country varying but little from those parts of Kerry already noticed. Was again pursued by children quite naked, many of whom followed two or three miles; the road being rugged they were able to run as fast as the horse could proceed. Travelling for the first thirteen miles was tolerably well managed; but after feeding the horse, and crossing p. 291 a ferry, the animal became restive: the remainder of the journey grew tedious and disagreeable. I was stopped on the road by a woman of rather decent appearance, who presented a paper, and desired me to read it, which I did, and found it to be a certificate couched in extravagant terms in favour of a man whom she stated to be her husband. She next presented a pen and ink for me to sign my name, which I declined, having never before heard of the individual: the woman seemed quite astonished at my want of civility, and observed, “Every body I meet does it, that is a scholar; what harm will it do you?” I asked her how I could certify a thing of which I had no knowledge whatever; to which she replied in an angry tone, “Better gentlemen nor you has put their names to it, you may depend on’t.”

At a village called Ballylongford, the servant procured another horse to take us four miles, but before we got half the distance he set up like the former. The person from whom he had been hired was running after us, and as soon as he came up the driver immediately began to try what effect flogging would have on him, as it had ceased to produce any at all upon his horse. The poor man bore the first couple of lashes with great patience, but the moment another was given, he rushed on the driver, pulled him headlong out of the gig, and with his own whip returned the obligation with compound interest. I was still two miles from Tarbert; it was already dark, and I had fatigued myself by walking after the first horse had given up. I endeavoured to reconcile the combatants, which the promise of a naggin of whiskey easily accomplished: the one took my portmanteau on his shoulder, the other undertook to draw the gig, and we all marched on in the best possible humour.

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6th. The poor at this place are as little satisfied with the charitable distribution as those in any part of Kerry. Persons of seeming respectability assert with great confidence, “that all has not been done that might have been done, and that some things have been done from which no very great advantage was derived by the poor.” Many agree in thinking, that had no provisions been imported “it would have been a very bad job indeed.”

At 1 p. m. departed for Limerick by water, and was much delighted with the scenery. In no part of Europe have I seen a finer river than the Shannon. It is superior to the Thames in every respect except in trade, for which it is far better situated, and a thousand times more accessible, as ships of the largest size may sail many miles up it in perfect safety, without a pilot. But, alas! most of these advantages are thrown away,—its trade is contemptible. In consequence of the Court being open for the trial of insurgents, and a subscription‐ball to be held this night, there was some difficulty in getting a bed.

7th. Called on the Local Inspector of the city gaol, the Rev. Mr. Gubbins, who accompanied me to that establishment. If I say the building is old, it is almost unnecessary to add that the gaol is bad, for I have nowhere seen an old one constructed on a good plan. In this, classification, inspection, employment, and instruction are all wanting: it is, moreover, badly ventilated, and excessively gloomy. The keeper does not reside in the prison, which must add to its numerous disadvantages. The dietary is, a pint of coarse oatmeal, a quart of new milk, and a twopenny loaf a day: some of the loaves were weighed before me, and they seemed to average one pound three ounces. This prison might be made tolerable by adding to it the old p. 293 county gaol, which adjoins it, and is not at present used for any purpose.

From this I proceeded to the new county gaol, an extensive building, constructed on an excellent plan. Classification and inspection are here perfect; but employment and instruction appear to be as yet deficient. As, however, it has not been long occupied, it may be fairly presumed that its discipline will be greatly improved. Females have nothing to engage their attention, or wherewith to employ their time, except washing; and the males have only to work at a pump for a short time, and raise a small quantity of water. Hopes are entertained that a stepping‐wheel will be introduced shortly, which will be of infinite value to the county.

As spinning and the manufacture of linen are but little understood in this part of the country, would it not be worth while to employ a well‐conducted elderly woman to teach the females to spin, and work at their needle? A similar system might be adopted for the men. If some looms were erected, and a competent person provided to instruct them in weaving, the yarn spun by the females could be converted into linen, which would be some saving to the county; and many of the persons, thus instructed, would be enabled afterwards to earn an honest livelihood. Some objection appears to lie against allowing the prisoners clean sheets only once a month, and suffering the dirty ones to remain unwashed sometimes a month longer. There is no point of view in which this practice can appear beneficial.

The dietary is, seven ounces of oatmeal made into a quart of stirabout, which is eaten for breakfast with a pint of new milk; three pounds and a half of potatoes, and a pint of sour milk for dinner; this allowance is, in my opinion, by no means sufficient: the milk, moreover, is often p. 294 bad and unwholesome. Mr. Sands, the local inspector, had very properly noted these circumstances in his journal, and represented them to the managing committee, but no alteration has yet been made. These remarks are thrown out with great deference; the committee who direct the concerns of the prison have manifested great zeal in their attention to the interests of humanity; their regulations are most judicious, but they are not quite complete: very little more will make the county of Limerick gaol inferior to none in Europe.

Visited the house of industry, which gives shelter and sustenance to not less than three hundred and eighty‐three individuals who would be entirely destitute, and many of whom would perish without such an asylum. Its inmates consist of ninety‐eight poor women, and forty‐three men; ninety‐five girls, and eighty‐nine boys; and fifty‐eight lunatics, of whom forty are females, and eighteen are males: this disproportion of the sexes is remarkable. I saw the children at school, many of them have made wonderful progress for their years. The walls are hung round with boards, on which psalms and elementary lessons had formerly been pasted, but they are now worn off or quite illegible; they have not been renewed for seven years.

One of the lunatics, Joseph Boucher, appeared to be very ill of a bowel complaint, under which he has laboured for three weeks; the attendants state, that he has not been seen by any medical man for the last four days! Can this be possible? It is much to be regretted that so excellent an institution should not have the advantage of a commodious house. The directors and attendants appear to discharge their several duties with great fidelity. I have not seen better order or more respectful behaviour any where.

I went into several houses in Limerick, and found the p. 295 population greatly beyond any thing I could have imagined. Three families often occupy one room, and forty‐three or more persons one house. I numbered thirty‐one in a house between two and three in the afternoon; and there was a room containing two families more, to which I was not admitted. It is hardly necessary to say that all these places presented a very wretched appearance; but such sights have now become familiar, and produce but faint impressions on the mind, compared with what they did at first.

Since my arrival in this part of the country, I have heard so much said by every class of persons in praise of a certain gentleman, a landed proprietor, who constantly resides on his estate, that I am induced to mention him, in the hope that some others, by emulating his example, may also secure, while living, the affections of the poor, a tremendous majority in Ireland, and leave to posterity a venerable memory. The name of this respected gentleman is John Waller. His tenants are said to have lived in comparative luxury amidst the late widely spread ravages of famine and disease. They required no part of the bounty so charitably contributed by generous Englishmen; nor would he suffer a road to be made through his estate with the charity money. It seems something like a libel on the country thus to distinguish an individual who does no more than his duty. There may be many others who do so with equal zeal;—I have no doubt there are thousands,—but I was not fortunate enough to be present when any of them were spoken of in terms of such enthusiastic affection as characterized the eulogy on the virtues of Mr. Waller. The means by which this enviable popularity has been acquired are extremely simple; he wisely identifies his own interest with that of his tenants, being fully persuaded that they must stand or fall together.

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8th. At nine a. m., set out for Nenagh. About three miles from Limerick, there were two carts with timber standing in the road, close to a bridge at the foot of a hill. As we descended the hill, the coach‐horses took fright and could not be restrained; there was just room to pass the first cart, but not the second; the horses were galloping at full speed; the projecting end of the timber was on a line with the pier of the bridge; the coach struck against both at the same instant. The shock threw the driver before the heads of the leaders, a distance of at least eighteen feet: I was sitting on the box beside him, and, foreseeing the accident, held on firmly. The coach was broken, but not one in or on it sustained the least injury.

As the timber carts were the cause of the accident, we all blamed their drivers, but found, on inquiry, they could not help it. They had left Limerick at day‐light, and proceeded about a couple of miles, when several fellows who had been concealed behind a hedge, jumped on the road, and fell upon them with bludgeons, and beat them most unmercifully. I went to a public‐house whither they had been carried, and found them sadly abused. One had two contused wounds, which laid the skull bare for an extent of nearly three inches. This poor fellow was in a comatose state, and exhibited all the symptoms of apoplexy, but became sensible after losing a considerable quantity of blood. The head of the other was greatly contused, and he had sustained other bodily injury, by which he declared and swore, “I’ve bled above a bushel, and am sure there isn’t another quart in my whole carcage, if you would squeeze me in a smith’s vice.”

While endeavouring to administer such remedies as the place afforded, a magistrate of the name of Crampton arrived, and in his care I left the ill‐treated fellows. As to p. 297 the cause of the outrage, nothing satisfactory could be learned. Some stated that these men, having seen a party of fellows assembled under suspicious circumstances some time before, had spoken of it unguardedly, and that the present chastisement was “only a bit of a hint to keep them from blabbing the next time.” Whether this sage remark originated in fact or mere surmise I know not. In consequence of the accident, we did not arrive in Nenagh till half past one.

It would be difficult to point out a finer piece of road than that from Limerick to Nenagh, twenty‐four miles; there is scarcely a hill in it, and for miles it is perfectly straight. The country, indeed, exhibits a cheerless appearance, being badly and scantily cultivated; the hedges few, and scarelyscarcely any trees. Two or three miles from Limerick, on the left, is Mount Shannon, the seat of the Earl of Clare, which is seen to great advantage, as contrasted with the nakedness of the surrounding country. A few miles further, on the same side, is Castleconnell, by far the handsomest village I have seen in the south. The Shannon is here expanded into a fine sheet; the neighbourhood is tolerably well wooded; the houses being all whitewashed, give an idea of comfort that strongly reminds one of Down or Antrim; and the idea gains strength from a little bleachgreen, the first I have seen in Munster.

The county of Limerick is better adapted for the growth of corn than any other, I believe, in the kingdom, and large quantities are raised in it even now; but if certain checks on industry were taken off, the quantity would be enormous. Thousands of poor, who are pining in idleness, would then be employed in raising food for their starving families, and cultivating those extensive tracts of country, p. 298 over which cows and sheep are now thinly scattered, or which lie entirely neglected.36

Having got a gig I proceeded to the northward about seven miles, and called on two gentlemen to whom I had introductions. One of them, Mr. Fitzgerald, a landed proprietor in both Tipperary and Kerry. From this gentleman I was desirous of obtaining information as to the state of rents, and inquired whether he did not think they should be greatly reduced. He agreed with me fully that they should, and that unless a reduction do take place, landlords will very shortly get no rents at all. “For my own part,” said he, “so far from getting rent, I have been obliged to support my tenants this year, else many of them must have starved.”

Mr. Fitzgerald’s connection with the South appears to have brought him well acquainted with the sentiments of the people. Tithe exactions, he says, are the exhaustless source, whence spring nine‐tenths of all the evils under which Ireland is groaning; that the ingenuity of man can devise no efficient remedy, while this oppressive millstone is left to hang round the neck of the poor, and to repress all their industrious efforts. It is not the poor alone of this or that persuasion of religion who are discontented: he states that the system is equally hated by every sect and class of the people. That this is really the state of the case is fully corroborated by my own observations in every part of the country. In the evening returned to Nenagh.

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9th. Visited the Bridewell: in this place criminals of every description are associated. There is a chamber called a day‐room, provided with a large window communicating with the street. The prison is situated beneath the sessions‐house, and its state is any thing but clean. Several of the prisoners complain that they are obliged to lie on the bare boards, some of the cells being entirely destitute of bed and bedding; yet this, hard as it is, is infinitely better than the piles of filth, called beds, in the sleeping places.

I waited on one of the magistrates, Mr. O’Meara, to inquire whether beds and bedding could be procured, to which he replied in the negative; and further observed, that Mr. Holmes, the proprietor of the town of Nenagh, represented the case to the grand jury last assizes, and that they would not present any thing for it. There is one yard, both incommodious and insecure; if any exercise be permitted in it, all the prisoners of course associate; but I fancy it is not often used. The key was covered with rust, and opened the lock with difficulty; hence I presume it is not often called for. The dietary allowance is similar to that which obtains in the county gaol, the merits of which have been already sketched,—five‐pence worth of bread a day. The prisoners’ appetites are expected to act like barometers, and keep pace with the rise and fall of the markets.

At noon left Nenagh, and returned to Limerick. Called on the secretary to the Central Committee, the Rev. Mr. Pinkerton, who showed me the manner in which the accounts of the charity had been kept, and explained the principle on which the distribution had been conducted: they both appeared admirable. All relief from the charity ceased this morning; still many poor creatures are nearly as ill off now as they were the first day it was opened. p. 300 There are crowds of poor, ragged and hungry, who can obtain no employment. What are they to do?

Four deluded wretches have expiated their offences this morning. No reflecting man, whose mind is not wickedly perverted, can question the necessity of restraining the wild career of such men; but whether extirpation be the best and only remedy that can be applied to such evils is, to say the least of it, not quite so evident. Those unfortunate beings, regarding themselves as martyrs to a good cause, not only met death with indifference, but embraced it with frenzied ardour. “We are only a branch off the tree; there are plenty left to do the business,” said they, while standing on the awful threshold of eternity. Happy for the country had these evil‐starred men carried their sentiments to the grave; but there is too much dangerous reason to fear they have bequeathed them to sympathizing companions, who are but little disposed to put the candle under a bushel.

10th. Waited on the Rev. Mr. Pinkerton again this morning, and had a long conversation with him relative to the country, on the state of which he appears to be well‐informed. A meeting of the committee having been appointed for this day, he very politely invited me to accompany him thither, and I accepted the invitation. I had the honour of meeting the bishop, Dr. Elrington, who manifested a desire to promote the object of my inquiries, for which I feel sincerely obliged. The state of the country appeared to excite in his lordship the liveliest interest; he has no doubt that the poor will be as badly circumstanced next year as they have ever been. The behaviour of the unhappy men who suffered the preceding day, coupled with his very extensive knowledge of the country, struck him as strongly portentous of future mischief. The p. 301 conversation was deeply interesting, but being engaged to proceed to Ennis by the mail, I was compelled most reluctantly to depart. His lordship had already told me of the distress felt by the clergy; he now repeated with peculiar emphasis, “I beg to impress it on you, that the clergy can get nothing whatever.”

It is impossible for any man who values the welfare of this country, and the cause of religion, to contemplate such a state of things with indifference. The fact alone is alarming, and if the circumstances in which it originates be duly weighed, the necessity of applying some efficient remedy will appear of vital importance to the wellbeing of the state:—vox populi.

Several parts of the road to Ennis are bad, and a great deal of the country is rugged and uncultivated; in many places the surface is so completely covered with stones, (limestone, it appeared,) that a single blade of grass is not sustained. There is, however, a great deal of good pasture land; some of the finest sheep I ever saw are here. The road passes through the estate of Sir Edward O’Brien a considerable way; and about seventeen miles from Limerick, his splendid mansion is seen from the road, but not to advantage. I believe Sir Edward is the most extensive farmer in Ireland.

Arrived in Ennis shortly after five, just as a committee of ladies was breaking up. This meeting was called at the request of Lady O’Brien, for the purpose of making arrangements to benefit the poor. The exertions of Lady O’Brien to alleviate the sorrows of the distressed, appear to have been zealous, unremitting, and highly efficient: her benevolence has not been thrown away. Many a prayer I have heard offered up to heaven for her ladyship’s preservation and happiness. Surely a name of this p. 302 sort, and the sentiments which must be inspired by the consciousness of deserving it, are as enviable as any that can arise from a “rout,” a “drum,” or an “at home,” where none are fed but those who can well afford to feed themselves.

11th. Waited on the Rev. Mr. Fitzgerald, local inspector of the prison, who accompanied me thither. The county gaol of Clare is by no means badly constructed, though it cannot at present be called a good prison. One irreparable evil attends it, that of being situated on low ground, consequently there is not sufficient fall from the sewers, which is sometimes productive of considerable inconvenience. For classification and inspection provision has been made; but employment, though not neglected, is not sufficiently extensive and constant. Education is, unfortunately, entirely wanting. A school was instituted formerly, from which the very best effects resulted. Many who came in totally ignorant went out able to read and write; but the grand jury gave it no encouragement, and it dwindled into disuse.

It would not fail to be highly interesting to the public if that august body would condescend to state their motives for not encouraging education. “A little learning may be a dangerous thing” among an overgrown and starving population; but just as much as would enable them to read the Scriptures, which would teach them their duty to God and their neighbour, and would moreover inculcate patience under the severest afflictions, might be encouraged, one would think, without much danger.

The Rev. Mr. Fitzgerald is endeavouring to get the school re‐established. That gentleman’s exertions have not been unsuccessful, in other respects, heretofore; his judicious regulations and unwearied attention have been p. 303 productive of a degree of order among the prisoners, and cleanliness throughout the prison, highly creditable to all its officers. It is much to be regretted that the ladies have not yet formed a committee to extend their benevolent care to this prison. The Catholic clergyman performs divine worship at nine o’clock on Sundays, the Protestant at eleven. The dietary rule is a loaf weighing two pounds, and a quart of new milk a‐day, to each prisoner.

From this I proceeded to the house of the secretary to the Central Committee, whom I was not fortunate enough to find at home, but was referred to another gentleman, who favoured me with a view of the accounts, which appear to have been kept with great correctness. There is a balance of four thousand two hundred and twenty‐nine pounds odd in favour of the charity, which the committee intend to lay out in releasing from pawn articles of clothing and furniture, which the poor were obliged to dispose of during the spring and summer. I saw a large basket full of pawn‐tickets which had been brought in, and five times as many more were expected. Nothing can be more judicious or humane than the active measures the committee are adopting. Wringing distress had compelled thousands of poor to part with nearly all their clothes, and the entire of their furniture; all the peasantry are ragged, if not naked, and many have neither pot nor saucepan left to boil their potatoes in.37

12th. Having hired a gig yesterday to convey me to Galway, I set out this morning at day‐light. The road for the first thirteen miles is bad, and the country very p. 304 indifferent; corn still standing in the fields, and the crop very light. At the time I left Ulster, nearly six weeks since, almost all the flax had been pulled some time; but here are small patches only in blossom, called “blue‐bow,” which will require some weeks to ripen. The season is much later here than in other parts of the country; and the mode of farming, if it deserve the name, the very worst I have anywhere seen.

Towards Gort, the road and country improve a little, and continue to do so nearly three miles north of that little town; they then grow worse again, and for eight or nine miles the country is wholly unproductive,—an acre of it would scarcely feed a goose. I never saw so complete a picture of desolation; the eye wanders over an immense tract of country, in which neither tree, nor shrub, nor vegetable of any sort, is discernible. Fuel too is wanting; and yet there are cabins scattered over it, around which a scanty verdure, produced by extreme art, is an exception to the general barrenness; and swarms of children, the dressing or undressing of whom gives their mothers no trouble whatever.

In the course of the journey I alighted and went into several cabins, which are almost as destitute of furniture as the children are of clothing. In one I found eight persons,—a man, two women, and five children, all, except two of the latter, labouring under fever. Each of these two had a raw potatoe in its hand, but there was no fire to cook them; nor was there a creature that could hand another a cup of water,—there was not so much as a cup of water in the house. Four lay in one corner, with nothing between them and the clay floor but a few old rushes, and no covering whatever but the ragged garments they wore; the other two lay in the opposite corner, on a similar bed, p. 305 with a thing over them that had once been a blanket, and was now absolutely moving with vermin. Gracious Heaven! what will become of this afflicted family?—The only cooking utensils in the place were two iron pots and an old tin saucepan; I desired my driver to fill them all with water from a pool close by; but he refused to touch any of them, lest he should catch the fever. I was glad to learn that this iron‐hearted calculator was not born in Ireland or Britain! A poor stocking‐man came up before I went away, who consented to attend them one day, and most cheerfully went off to a huxter’s to procure a scanty supply of the necessaries of life. In another cabin into which I went, there were two persons sick; one with fever, the other, consumption.

At three in the afternoon, arrived in Galway. The first place I visited was the fever hospital, which, unfortunately, has too many wretched inmates, and each succeeding day brings in fresh objects. Visited several of the public buildings in the course of the evening.

13th. Walked through the town at an early hour, and visited many cabins soon after their occupants had risen, and nothing can exceed the wretchedness that every one presented. I have often tried to describe those places, but language is vain: to have any thing like a correct notion of them, they must be seen; worse than these I should think quite impossible. There were twenty‐nine persons in one cabin, but I could not learn of how many families they consisted.

Visited the county gaol, which is constructed on an excellent plan, and enjoys every benefit that can possibly arise from a good situation. The great advantages of classification and inspection are fully secured; but employment is very deficient, the males are completely idle. p. 306 There is a committee of ladies, some of whom attend every day to instruct the unfortunate females, who have profited greatly in every respect by this humane attention. Linen yarn, rugs, and several fancy articles were shown me, which had been manufactured in the prison by persons who had never before used a needle.

There are two schools, which appear to be well attended, but there is a scarcity of books; few of the prisoners understand any language but the Irish. Want of employment, want of baths, and want of apartments for crown evidences, are among the principal defects of this prison; the floors are formed of rough flags, which must be very difficult to keep clean. Divine worship is regularly performed, and the Catholic clergy make no objection to the Scriptures, or any other useful books, being put into the hands of prisoners of their persuasion. Dietary allowance, two pounds of brown bread a day, without milk, or any other nutriment whatever. The baneful practice of detaining felons after conviction was noticed in the prisons I first visited: I am now enabled to state, that it obtains throughout all the prisons in the kingdom; here they are detained eighteen months. It should be remarked, that this error can only be rectified by the government.

On the south side of the county gaol is that belonging to the county of the town, which has the benefit of good situation in common with the former, and this is the only advantage it possesses; classification, inspection, employment, and instruction, are wholly wanting. There are only three wards, with a yard to each, for all descriptions of prisoners of both sexes. An addition was made to it last year, which appears to have been of very little benefit to the prisoners, whatever good it may have done to persons outside. The floors are as rough as those p. 307 of the other prison, and culinary utensils of every sort are wanting.

The local inspector states, that “the grand jury will not present a shilling to provide any thing for this prison, though its wretched condition has often been represented to them.” If any unforeseen, unmerited, or unfortunate accident were to compel a few of those feeling gentlemen to become inmates of such a place for a single week;—if they were obliged to eat a brown loaf, and drink water out of a nasty old hat, as the prisoners now do, the case would, doubtless, be very cruel; the whole country would be filled, and justly too, with indignant complaint. Of what materials are the more humble prisoners supposed to be formed? Have they no rights which should be respected, or feelings which should not be wantonly outraged? Many of them may be innocent, but even allowing the contrary to have been proved, still have they claims on humanity, which will seldom be disputed. He who can deny himself the exercise of that divine attribute, mercy, on the broad principle of unbending justice, cherishes a sense of propriety by no means to be envied. The dietary is, two pounds of brown bread only, similar to that of the other prison.

In one of the cells was an old man employed in setting up types for printing a newspaper. There were in another cell three men, Matthias Doran, Timothy Malony, and James Killeen, confined under circumstances somewhat extraordinary. Nearly ten years ago, Doran and Malony were convicted of selling a small quantity of whiskey on which duty had not been paid, and all the property they had was sold at the time to pay the fine, but the sale fell short of the whole amount. Doran was afterwards employed as a revenue policeman, and the other followed p. 308 some little industrious occupation without molestation, and maintaining a quiet inoffensive character until the 22d of August last, when they were both thrust into this miserable prison for the remainder of the fine. Killeen’s case is exactly similar to the foregoing, except that his offence was committed and his property sold only six years ago. I took some pains to ascertain their character, and was assured, on authority of the first respectability, that they were all harmless and industrious. Conceiving that their imprisonment was owing to mistake, or the interference of some attorney desirous of fees, I submitted the case to the Right Honourable Henry Goulburn38, as the most direct channel through which redress might be obtained.

Leaving this mansion of idleness and wo, I waited on the secretary of the Charity Committee, the Rev. Mr. D’Arcy, whose politeness, intelligence, and benevolent zeal are too well known, and his merits too generally appreciated, to receive any additional honour from my pen. He showed me the accounts, which have been kept in a manner so clear and simple, that there is no difficulty in understanding them. He, moreover, invited several members of the Committee to meet me in the evening, for the purpose of more fully explaining the general principle on which they had acted. The public spirit and humanity manifested by some of them do credit to themselves and their country.

By their judicious arrangements, and devoted attention to the duties they had undertaken, many thousands must have had their sufferings greatly alleviated: the number of p. 309 poor persons that sought refuge from starvation in this town during the summer is incredible; but in their flight from famine they plunged into pestilence; and many fell victims to contagious fever, a certain attendant on poverty and want of cleanliness.39

There is not a district of Ireland where the meliorating effects of education are more necessary than in this. The general body of the people is, as it were, immersed in Bœotian night: Mr. Hardiman, in his History of Galway, page 294, makes the following remark: “From what has been already said, it may be concluded, that the inhabitants of the Claddagh are an unlettered race, but they seldom have either inclination or time to be otherwise. They rarely speak English, and even their native language, the Irish, they pronounce in a harsh discordant tone, sometimes scarcely intelligible to the town’s‐people. It is said, that they consider it a kind of reproach to speak English, or to send their children to school, and that a schoolmaster among them would be considered a phenomenon; but of late, there are some exceptions to this rule.” A small man of war, His Majesty’s ship Brazen, is at present in the harbour, and occasions some stir and bustle in the town.

With respect to its commodiousness for extensive trade there are many opinions. In several respectable publications it is described as possessing many advantages, being easy of access, and perfectly safe, which appears to be the opinion also of the inhabitants. I have conversed with many naval officers, who had long served on this station, p. 310 and they invariably described it as being a most dangerous coast during the winter months. Several have assured me, that they never encountered worse weather in the North or China seas than here.

The harbour and coast abound with fish; but this exhaustless treasure, which, if properly managed, would greatly enrich the country, and give useful employment to the people, is of comparatively little value, owing to the fishermen’s want of means to prosecute their avocation with advantage, as well as their inability to cure what they succeed in taking. The following remark on the subject is taken from Mr. Hardiman’s History, page 296.

“The herring fishery, which is the most valuable on the coast, sets in twice every year; first in harvest, and afterwards in winter. For some years past, the herrings, from some unknown cause, made their appearance much later than formerly: the winter fishery, which usually began early in November, and ended on Christmas eve, does not now commence until the end of February, or beginning of March; but the vast shoals annually taken are astonishing. The herrings are larger, and esteemed of a much better quality, than those taken on the coasts of Scotland, but that industrious nation far exceeds us in curing and saving the fish. On the commencement of the season, vessels from England, Scotland, and many parts even of Ireland, attend in the different creeks and harbours of the bay, and purchase the fresh fish, which is immediately cured and prepared for exportation. It is much to be lamented, that this practice does not awaken the attention of the merchants of the town, who might individually, or by forming themselves into companies, take advantage of those treasures which people of other countries annually carry away from their doors. The liberal encouragement, however, now p. 311 held out by government to the Irish fisheries may, perhaps, stimulate their industry. For this encouragement the country is not a little indebted to the late collector of Galway, whose exertions to promote this great source of national wealth are deserving of the highest praise.”

It is in place here to observe, that premiums of every description are on too high a scale, being out of the reach of the poor generally, for whose benefit they were originally designed; monopolies are formed by means of superior capital, and the rich merchant generally reaps, though the poor labourer may sow. This particularly applies to the fisheries on the south and west coasts of Ireland. Poor industrious men may catch the quantities of fish for which premiums are granted, but were they to catch ten times the quantity, their claims are disregarded; the bounty will not reach them, should the boats in which the fish were caught happen to be under a certain size: thus, many are prevented from embarking in the concern at all. The meshes of the nets and seines are required to be of such large dimensions, that pilchards and other small fish pass through them. It may be proper to remark, that this information is derived from intelligent persons of extensive experience, who have no interest whatever in the business.

14th. Having arranged for a conveyance to Tuam, a distance of seventeen miles, I set out this morning soon after daylight, and arrived by eight o’clock. In the course of my drive this morning I met several families, some three or four together; some carrying pots, others old tin saucepans, and some old chairs, stools, &c. Not having seen beggars thus provided with cabin furniture in any other part of the country, I inquired their motive, and was informed, that they had been cotters to different persons in the p. 312 neighbourhood, and were turned out of their little holdings because they could not make up the rent, and it would not be received in labour. Some of them stated that they had worked for their masters while the harvest lasted, but that the valuation of their labour fell short of the rent; and the landlords (middlemen) having nothing more to do, had sent them about their business. This being the market‐day of Tuam, brought together a great many of the country people, whose squalid and wo‐begone appearance it would be as superfluous as painful and difficult to describe.

A gentleman of the first respectability related to me an anecdote, which I insert, in the hope that it may amuse some and instruct others of my readers. Sir G. S., “an everlasting absentee,” and extensive landed proprietor in this province, instructed his agent, in 1820, to make up his rents, and not to receive less than the full amount. The agent accordingly assembled the tenants, and stated the orders he had received from the landlord; but their ragged appearance gave him little hope of getting much money from any of them. Every one, however, came prepared to pay a part of the rent. Some had mustered up two‐thirds, some a half, others a quarter, and some still less. It would not do: the orders were peremptory, “the whole or nothing.”

In about a month afterwards, the agent having received fresh orders, assembled the tenants again, and found their appearance greatly improved. He exclaimed with delight, “I am authorized to take what you offered me before, and the remainder at a certain day; but from your appearance, I have no doubt, you have now brought the whole rent.” To this they replied: “We have neither the whole nor any part of it now to give. When we came before, we p. 313 offered all we could raise, and had you taken it, ourselves, our wives, and our families, would be in rags all the year; but as that would not be received, and we knew it would be quite impossible to make up the whole, we went and purchased clothes and other necessaries, for ourselves and our families;—there is not one of us with a tenpenny left.”

During my stay in Galway, I heard of an inn or house of entertainment, which has been established and well‐attended for years, wherein a gallon of licensed whiskey has never been sold; and I this day had an opportunity of assuring myself of the fact. The proprietor of the house contracts with a person to supply whatever quantity of smuggled spirits he may require, at a fixed price, throughout the year; and whether it be abundant or scarce, cheap or dear, the price is the same, and the supply perfectly regular. Would it not be quite as creditable to prevent such an organized system of fraud, as pouncing on three miserable old men without a shilling in their pockets, and shutting them up in a vile prison for an offence committed many years ago, and for which all the expiation in their power was made at the time?

The land between Galway and Tuam is sparingly cultivated; this circumstance is occasioned principally by a deep‐rooted and general aversion to the payment or even to the name of tithe: many persons, I am positive, would rather throw five pounds into the sea, than give as many shillings for such a purpose. Unfortunately, too, there are very few that can afford to pay either tithe or rent, or any thing else. The grand jury, some time ago, presented fifteen hundred pounds for the repair of the church, and to carry on other necessary improvements; but great difficulty has been experienced in raising this trifling sum, p. 314 nor has the whole of it, I believe, been as yet collected: such is the condition of this large county.

In the dress of the females who attended the market this day, a distinction was pointed out to me which is both curious and convenient. It is a custom, I find, in every part of this district, for women who can speak English to wear coloured ribands on their caps or bonnets: thus a stranger unacquainted with the vernacular tongue, may save himself the trouble of addressing persons to whom his discourse would be unintelligible.

At 3 p. m. set out with the mail for Castlebar,—the road good,—the country better than what I had seen in Galway, but very indifferently cultivated. Saw several families travelling with cooking utensils, similar to those mentioned in the morning; and some sitting by the road side. One of these groups consisted of a man, a woman, and nine children. When the coach arrived at Castlebar, I was induced by the representations of a passenger, whose conversation proved very interesting, to proceed to Westport.

15th. Got a horse, and set out at a very early hour to visit Croagh‐Patrick, the foot of which is distant from Westport about four miles. Having left my horse at a cabin, I proceeded on foot, and gained the summit of this magnificent cone just as the sun was beginning to illumine the horizon. The morning was delightfully fine, and the prospect perfectly superb. The attention was insensibly attracted by the rising sun, whose radiance was intercepted by small, dark coloured clouds, which appeared accumulated, and folded like a heavy drapery seemingly opposed to his brilliant progress. Their fantastic shapes varied every instant in beautiful illusion, and every change of form was enriched by a diversity of tints exhibiting the p. 315 most exquisitely coloured drapery. In contemplating so sublime a scene, the mind is irresistibly impelled into admiration of the inconceivable wisdom of the Great Creator. Amidst these reflections the attention was presently drawn towards the sun suddenly bursting through the clouds in matchless splendour, dissipating every vapour, and pouring a boundless flood of light over an immense extent of ocean, and an interminable prospect of wild mountain scenery: all was clear, calm, and serene. In the descent I met several parties provided with baskets, from which it appeared they intended to breakfast on the Rick,—so the the mountain is familiarly called. What a rich treat they would have had an hour and a half sooner. I got back to the town about nine, having profited not a little by my exercise. After breakfast walked towards Westport‐house, whence the prospect is truly grand.

The Most Noble the Marquis of Sligo is proprietor of the town of Westport, and a vast tract of coarse mountainous country in its vicinity. It is a thriving little place; the streets paved and flagged; the houses neatly built of stone, and slated, from quarries of that material in the neighbourhood. It has a smart linen‐market, which is attended chiefly by persons who have emigrated from the county of Armagh within the last twenty or thirty years. A considerable trade in pork and oats is also carried on; but the harbour is too small, and the channel too narrow and intricate for extensive commerce.

Westport‐house, the site of which is properly where the town should stand, is a magnificent mansion, but of rather heavy appearance, situated between the town and quay, and commands a prospect seawards of extreme interest, and one which would form the subject of a noble picture. On the right is a high, reclaimed, infertile, hilly ridge, p. 316 exhibiting marks of the most careful cultivation: in the centre the quay, with lofty warehouses and shipping, Clew Bay, studded with its numerous islands,—Clara,—Bofin, Achil, and the blue Atlantic: the left is occupied with a range of irregular mountain, crowned with the lofty Croagh‐Patrick, rising 2,700 feet above the level of the sea, which washes its base at Morisk, the property of Mr. Garvey, to whom this beautiful mountain belongs. At the extremity of the Croagh, westward, is a neat little town named Louisburg, the property of the Marquis of Sligo.

At 1 p. m. set out and returned to Castlebar. I had an opportunity this day of seeing the peasantry throughout a considerable tract of country, in their best apparel, it being Sunday; but their appearance differed in no respect from that of those so frequently noticed before. The attempt to describe them is a most painful one, for the picture admits of no relief:—misery fills the foreground, and throws an inexpressible gloom over the whole.40

16th. Had a long ride before breakfast, and afterwards waited on the Rev. Mr. Pasley, local inspector of the gaol, who very kindly accompanied me thither, though he appeared to have other important engagements at the time, and the weather was very disagreeable. The county gaol of Mayo has lately received an addition of a third story, which is much to be regretted, because the original plan was bad, and precludes the possibility of being made good by any alteration short of reconstruction. As, therefore, a new prison is required, and, at no very distant p. 317 period, it is hoped, will be supplied, the expence of this addition would have contributed a good deal towards defraying that of the new one.

At present classification is defective, and inspection wholly impracticable. Great efforts appear to have been made to employ the prisoners; and the manner in which education has been attended to is very creditable. I was much gratified by looking over the writing of prisoners, several of whom were totally ignorant of the alphabet at the time they were committed. In no part of Ireland have I witnessed so strong an avidity for instruction as among the peasantry of this county; and in no country on the face of the globe, perhaps, do the lower orders give better proofs of ability to receive it. The most astonishing instances of proficiency have been shown within the dismal cells of this prison. The last convicts who were transported hence, petitioned Mr. Pasley to beg of the lord‐lieutenant, that the education they had begun in prison might be continued to them in their banishment.

The local inspector devotes a large share of his time to the duties of his office, and discharges them with fidelity. He related to me several cases of Catholic prisoners, who requested him to pray with them just before the awful sentence of the law was carried into execution. Both he and the gaoler mentioned the case of a man of the name of Mitchell, a Catholic, who was hanged not long ago, and whose conduct evinced something very extraordinary. This man, it appears, had requested that Mr. Pasley would give him a copy of the New Testament, with which he immediately complied; but not long afterwards it was forcibly taken from him by the priest. Mitchell applied for another, which was given: this one he retained and perused, in spite of the priest’s directions to the contrary. p. 318 The priest attended regularly; but this man entreated the devotional assistance of Mr. Pasley, the rector. This statement is given precisely in the terms I received it, and is the only one of the kind that ever came to my knowledge during the whole of my acquaintance with Ireland.

About a quarter of a mile out of town is what is called “the upper‐gaol,” where females, lunatics, and debtors for very small sums, are confined; and a more incommodious or abominable place never, perhaps, was mis‐called “gaol:” there are sixteen lunatics confined here. Near the gaol, in the town, a most elegant and convenient court‐house is in progress of building; it is constructed on a most judicious plan, and will form a striking contrast to the two prisons.

The condition of the established clergy here is truly pitiable. The Rev. Mr. Pasley assures me that he can get no tithe, though he offers to take it in any way most convenient to the people, namely, to receive linen, woollen, butter, corn,—or any thing they can give; but it is to no purpose: he has not, for many months, received a single penny; nor has he the least hope of getting any. He thinks the people would pay if they could, but that they have not the means. That they have not the means either of paying tithe, or even of keeping themselves from starving, is most certain; but whether they would pay if they could, is more than questionable.

Mr. Pasley spent a great deal of his time among the peasantry in the country during the summer, and distributed the public charity to many thousands; and the account he gives of their condition is heart‐sickening. He does not think that more than ten died of absolute starvation in this neighbourhood, but many are reduced almost to skeletons.

p. 319

With respect to the distribution of the charity here, the poor are far from being satisfied. It is stated that the heads of distressed families had often experienced great difficulty in getting their names included among those to be relieved, while every individual of other families was enrolled: it is confidently affirmed that six, seven, and eight persons, have in this way received as much support as the same number of families, who did not happen to be favourites. How far these declarations are entitled to credit I pretend not to decide; one thing, however, is quite certain, that a great many are discontented.

Procured a wretched vehicle called a gig, to convey me to Sligo, whither I set out at two in the afternoon; but the starved animal that drew me soon tired, and I was obliged to take up my abode for the night in a cabin, where a cordial welcome made up for the want of every comfort, and even necessary of life. The country rough and ill‐cultivated, the condition of the poor not at all improved.

17th. Commenced my journey again an hour before day‐light, and continued to travel at a slow pace, stopping occasionally to feed the poor horse: about two p. m. got into Sligo. Several miles from the town the country begins to improve both in quality and cultivation; but the appearance of the poor is miserable in the greatest degree.41 Noticed several pounds both yesterday and to‐day nearly filled with cattle. Took a ride before dinner through the country, parts of which present some highly beautiful scenery. A more delightful spot than Hazlewood, the residence of Mr. Wynne, can scarcely be found anywhere.

18th. Had a long ride this morning, and returned at p. 320 nine. From a window in the room where I breakfasted (Nelson Hotel), noticed a female sitting on the battlement of the bridge, and the street filled with mischievous boys and idle persons who had collected, it would appear, for the purpose of teazing her: a respectable looking elderly man was standing near her with a long whip, which he exercised on such as offered to molest her. After witnessing this curious exhibition about half an hour, I stepped out to inquire into the cause, and was informed by the gentleman guardian, that he had not spoken to the female, but from her appearance he supposed her deranged. I asked her what she was doing in that place, to which she replied, “I am waiting for a house to live in, and work in.” She stated her name to be Ann Blake; that her relations, who live in the county of Galway, had sent her to Dublin, where she was bled, and had her head blistered, and was nearly starved, and that not liking such treatment, she left them.

From her conversation it was evident that she had been brought up respectably; it is probable, too, that her relations are able to afford those attentions and comforts which strangers might not feel disposed to bestow. She was received and taken care of at the hotel, while I proceeded to the house of one of the magistrates, to acquaint him of the circumstance, that he might direct her to be taken care of. It was before the provost’s hour of coming to town, and I was not fortunate enough to find any of the other magistrates at their houses.

Visited the gaol, which is well constructed, and kept in good order; its condition, indeed, does great credit to every one who has any concern in its management. Every part of it is uncommonly clean, and the beds are folded up with a degree of neatness that I never saw anywhere p. 321 else. Some classes of prisoners, particularly debtors, are inconvenienced for want of room. There is no infirmary, which is certainly a great defect in a modern prison. It is stated, that none have been sick since this new prison was opened; so fortunate a circumstance is a valuable proof that the respective duties of every department have been faithfully discharged; but it by no means justifies the hope that there never will be any sick, nor can it excuse so great an omission.

The female prisoners derive infinite benefit from the kind attentions of a ladies’ committee. The progress of education is most gratifying; religious worship is regular, but the catholic clergy are said to have a great aversion to the Scriptures without any comment, being put into the hands of their followers. The dietary allowance is a pound and half of bread, and a quart of new milk every second day; and fourteen pounds of potatoes, with a quart of new milk every other day alternately.

At 1 p. m. waited on the provost, who immediately gave directions respecting the poor insane girl. Spent the remainder of the evening in walking through the town, and visiting the public buildings, among which the infirmary and fever hospital are the most interesting. “The county of Sligo contains very good land, intermixed with large tracts of coarse and unprofitable ground. Lough Gilly exhibits that variety of charming prospects which bold hills, wooded lawns, and large islands, clothed with verdure and crowned with trees, united with a great extent of water, cannot fail to produce. Upon the river by which the waters of this lake are discharged into a large bay, stands the town of Sligo, and vessels of two hundred tons can come up to the quays.”42 But a very small proportion p. 322 of this county is under tillage. The same motives which so powerfully urge the farmers in other places to graze, rather than to cultivate their ground, operate here in full force: tithe is an evil dreaded by the farmer more than the mischievous mildew.

19th. At day‐light left Sligo for Enniskillen; stopped in Manorhamilton to visit the prison, which has less pretension to that name than any I have yet seen. It is situated partly under and partly over the sessions‐house, and consists of three rooms, the lowermost of which being occupied by the gaoler, leaves two upper rooms of a very small size for prisoners of all sorts. There is, in fact, only one room for prisoners, the wall of the other having been broken through some time ago, by persons who endeavoured to escape; it is now locked up, and remains perfectly useless. In the one apartment used, a man and a woman are at present confined.

On the score of convenience I have long thought the gaol at Dungannon as deficient as any in the world; but here is one infinitely more disgusting. This has no surrounding wall, consequently there is no place where a prisoner can get either air or exercise. There is no privy, nor place used as such. When unhappy wretches here confined can no longer resist the calls of nature, they are compelled to apply to the gaoler, who, fixing on his belts, takes up his loaded musket, and has to conduct them one after another to an open field, where he must stand centinel the whole time:—the thing is too barbarous—too revolting to be further described.

It is somewhere mentioned by a writer of celebrity, that a European who had long been travelling among savages, was overjoyed at unexpectedly seeing a man hanging in chains, being then fully assured that he was not far from p. 323 civilized society. Analogous to this may be thought the notion, that crowds of beggars are the first good criterion I have had for many days, of the country being in an improved state. It is, however, a fact capable of easy demonstration. The hand of poverty has so completely withered the face of the country through which I have lately passed, that the beggars, were they to remain there, would inevitably starve; hence, they migrate to other districts where the people are better able to support them.

Some distance from Sligo, on an estate which I was informed belongs to Mr. Wynne, there were many poor persons of both sexes, carrying kreels or bundles of grass, which I presently found was to feed cattle impounded for rent. The pound was so crammed, that each owner found it impossible to prevent the cattle of others from devouring the scanty supply he had brought for his own. A decent looking man, a linen dealer, who has passed that way every week for years, declared he never saw that pound empty.

At nine o’clock I visited the prison of the county Fermanagh43, which in every respect so exactly resembles that of Kerry, that a separate description of it would be superfluous. Both were built by the same person on plans nearly similar, and every fault of one is carefully copied in the other. There is no employment. A schoolmaster is provided, at a salary of fifteen pounds a‐year, without lodging; the committee very generously add five pounds more; but twenty pounds are not sufficient to support him and a wife with five children. The dietary is, one pound and half of oatmeal, two pounds of potatoes, and a quart of new milk a day. Prisoners in solitary confinement are allowed a loaf, p. 324 the price of which varies from five‐pence to sixpence, and a quart of new milk a‐day.

Having provided myself with an excellent horse, I left Enniskillen and proceeded to the south‐west along the Leitrim mountains, which are absolutely swarming with an infant population.44 When Mr. Wakefield visited this part of the country, (which was, I believe, in 1809,) he says all the children were sent to school. Times are wofully changed since then; for now they are running about in a state of nudity, and apparently quite wild. Dined at Ballinamore, and proceeded to Carrick‐on‐Shannon, where I did not arrive till dark.

20th. Crossed the Shannon, and proceeded through Elphin to Lanesborough.45 This day travelled over a large tract of very fine land, of which by far the greater part is appropriated to grazing. The proportion of cultivated ground in the county of Roscommon, relatively to its size and the quantity cultivable is smaller than perhaps in any other county in the kingdom. Lime appears most abundant every where here; dry walls are formed of it for the purpose of enclosing the fields. Noticed small quantities of corn and flax still standing out: the flax appears so short and stunted, that it can scarcely be worth the trouble of manufacturing.

Before taking leave of these provinces, let me entreat the reader’s serious attention to a few observations in retrospect p. 325 of the miserable country traversed during the last month. The remarks I have to offer are not the offspring of impressions hastily formed, or notions crudely collected. In addition to close personal application, every opportunity was sedulously sought to converse and correspond with persons well acquainted with the causes of Ireland’s afflictions. It has fallen to my lot to witness scenes of wretchedness, which can never be effaced “while memory holds her seat.” On all I have seen and learned, I have reflected intensely, and my mind is irresistibly drawn to the following conclusions:—

In the first place, then, it appears that a thirteenth of all the land and a tenth of the produce and labour belong to the ministers of the Established Church, many of whom are absentees: three‐fourths of the great landed proprietors are also absentees. Hence it is clear, that the greater part of the land and some portion of the labour belong to the people of another country; only a small share being left to supply the exigencies of the state,—support the majority of the inhabitants—and the ministers of their religion, which is not the religion of the state.

Out of such an order of things manifold evils arise. To speak of the gentry collectively, they are few in number compared with those of the same class in England, and possess but little weight or influence in either the country or with the government: and the few who do reside on their estates, are divided by political feuds. Protestant and Catholic interests, made to clash on one side, and a deep sense of degradation on the other, keep alive religious distinctions and animosities,—the fruitful sources of countless miseries.

The condition of the peasantry cannot fail soon to force itself on public attention. Pining under the most poignant p. 326 distress, sunk in ignorance and wretchedness; without any means of procuring education, unless it be purchased at the expence of their religious principles, by them esteemed as precious as life itself; ground down by rack‐rents, vestry cesses, grand‐jury jobs, and the exorbitant demands of tithe proctors,—they unfortunately consider the laws (particularly those that enforce the payment of tithes to a church to which they do not belong) as unjust and oppressive. Against these laws they are evermore breaking out in rebellion, and look upon all as their natural oppressors who lend their aid in support of them, not even excepting the Roman Catholic clergy.

It has been stated that an insurrectionary spirit prevents the introduction of capital; but the truth is, there is neither internal nor external trade to induce a capitalist to settle in the country. These, among others, are some of the great barriers that stand in the way of improvement, and must be removed as a preliminary step towards civilization. The peasantry are willing and anxious to engage in labour, at any wages, however trifling; but labour is unproductive, and, as there are no factories or public works in the country to give them employment, idleness becomes unavoidably habitual to the great bulk of the people, and every day contributes to the pernicious effects of this inveterate evil. Dispossessed of their lands for non‐payment of rent, and thrust upon the world, what are the poor to do? Humanity shudders at the alternative,—a choice of evils;—happily they have hitherto embraced that which has least disturbed the public repose.

Several instances have come to my knowledge of landlords or their agents having seized the entire corn‐crop of their tenants, and removed it into their own farm‐yards, which deprives the cottager not only of the corn but also p. 327 of the straw, the only fodder for his cattle, which must of course inevitably perish in the winter. It is remarkable that the demands of the tithe proctor are more exorbitant this year than at any former period: to this it may be added, that the poor are almost universally in a state of nudity.

In the evening of this day recrossed the Shannon, and proceeded to Longford. About a mile from Lanesborough is a handsome house belonging to Captain Davys, delightfully situated on the bank of the Shannon. Lime still forms the substratum. I arrived too late at night to visit a new gaol, just finished.

21st. Left Longford at 5 a. m., and proceeded to Edgeworthstown, and thence to Fore46, which is surrounded by beautiful scenery. In the afternoon continued my journey to Granard, county of Longford47, where I arrived a little after seven, having travelled nearly forty miles. Were aI to speak from extensive observations of this part of the country made in former years, and what I saw in the course of this day’s ride, I would say, that Westmeath is decidedly the best grazing county in Ireland; nor do I know any part of England that produces finer sheep or bullocks than many which came under notice to‐day. Scanty cultivation, wretched cottages, dirty farm‐houses, and crowds of beggars are here contrasted with enchanting scenery, and a most luxuriant soil.

22d. Set out before five this morning, and rode several miles along the river Erne, some parts of which present p. 328 fine prospects; but the country is very inferior, both in natural beauty and fertility, to Westmeath. Arrived in Killesandra at 11 a. m., and at 2 p. m. resumed my journey, arriving at six at Bawnboy, a small town situated at the foot of the easternmost extremity of the Leitrim mountains. The country hereabouts has an exceedingly wild appearance, exhibiting large tracts of bog covered with heath. Illicit distillation seems to thrive here better than any thing else; a proof of the singular independence produced by this baneful trade was repeatedly given by the beggars, who presented themselves in almost every direction with their usual importunity, emboldened even to rudeness by intoxication.

23d. Returned to Enniskillen. Unwilling to trespass unnecessarily on the reader’s patience, brief extracts only have been given from the notes made during the last four days. It may here be stated that the cabins generally presented a very miserable appearance; that the peasantry are unemployed, and badly clothed.

24th. Having engaged a jaunting‐car, I set forward at day‐light; breakfasted at Five‐mile Town, and at 1 p. m. arrived in Aughnacloy. Passed several droves of fine bullocks to‐day on the road, going to be shipped for England. Proceeded across the country to Carrickcolman; a little hamlet mentioned in this journal, the 12th of July .

29th. This is the first day I was in bed after sun‐rise since I came to Ireland. Went to Eglish meeting‐house this forenoon, and heard an excellent moral discourse delivered by the Rev. Mr. Bell, presbyterian minister. I was fortunate enough in early life to secure this gentleman’s friendship: the first rudiments of my grammatical knowledge were acquired under his care: and I shall long retain a grateful sense of his suavity and friendly attention. p. 329 He was then in the meridian of life, and now as he descends into the vale of years, his benignant character derives a greater interest from the influence of time, blending wisdom, piety, and charity with the venerable dignity of age. His altered appearance is well calculated to excite reflections;—such was its effect on me. It is no compliment to say, that never on any occasion was I more edified by a sermon.

10th October. As several days have elapsed of which no notice is taken, it may not be superfluous to remark that, during my excursion through Ulster, in June and July, a great many friends had very kindly offered to promote my inquiries, by collecting information on various interesting points, to which I had previously requested their attention; and the last fortnight has been principally spent in riding through Tyrone, Monaghan, Cavan, Armagh, Down, and Antrim, for the purpose of gaining further information on points which still remained doubtful.

11th. Set out this morning by the Belfast coach, and at 7 p. m. arrived in Dublin. On the road, near Castlebellingham, where the coach stopped a few minutes, I accidentally met with an old acquaintance, a gentleman who, six years ago, was in comfortable circumstances. A short sketch of his history may be permitted. Before the termination of the war, he took a farm in the county of Dublin, at six guineas an acre, which was then considered a reasonable rate: for some time he paid the rent easily, and supported his family—a wife and six children—in respectability: but times speedily changed; the rent could not be raised from the produce of the farm: still he went on; he knew the land to be good: he had a little private property on which he drew every year to make up the deficiency of the rent; and delusive hope often whispered, “it is impossible that things can continue long as they are, p. 330 next year must surely be better.” His crops were always excellent, but during the last five or six years they sold for less than the amount of his rent. The support of his family exhausted the little fortune with which he commenced;—he could stand it no longer. Had he this year gone to the landlord and requested him to take, as an equivalent for his rent, every thing the ground had produced, both cattle and crop,—and never was there a finer produce,—leaving his labour and the expence of cultivation out of consideration, he (the tenant) would have saved nearly a hundred pounds! This case does not stand supported by his own declaration alone, and his word is unimpeachable; I know myself the merits of it, and can vouch for its correctness: there are thousands similar to it in every respect. What a melancholy reflection that the combined powers of prudence, experienced skill, and unwearied industry, cannot shield an amiable family from such undeserved calamity!

12th. Went to the packet‐office, engaged a passage in the steam‐packet Mountaineer, and employed the interval till her sailing in viewing the city of Dublin and its environs. In the course of this excursion I sauntered over the hill of Killiney, an elevated granitic range, which forms the north‐eastern termination of the Dublin mountains, and from which a stranger is presented with a choice of admirable prospects, whether he prefer the sublime or beautiful, or the combination of both.

Eastward, the eye embraces Killiney Bay, lying within the bosom of the hill just mentioned,—the little town of Bray upon the shore, with the Sugar‐loaf beyond, the tapering elevation of which forms a pleasing unique among the irregular group of the Wicklow mountains. Turning round, the grandeur of the scene spreads in boundless association p. 331 of beautiful objects, uniting the charms of nature with those elegancies and comforts of life, which result from commercial wealth and civilization. At your foot, the island and little town of Dalkey, with the busy scene of the quarries for supplying the works at the new harbour of Kingstown, formerly Dunleary48, which gives the idea of full security to the shipping in the bay, some at anchor, others moving into port, or passing outwards to their various destinations. Beyond the bay the promontory of Howth, over the neck of which are seen the cultivated hills of Louth, terminated by the irregular sky‐line of the mountains of Mourne. Turning again towards the west, the city spreads her smoking extent over many a mile, diversified with steeples, squares, monuments, and other architectural beauties,—the rich plains of Kildare in the distance;—the whole constituting, perhaps, one of the most magnificent views in the world. The picture becomes finished with the space between the city and the observer, luxuriantly cultivated, and thickly set with innumerable country seats, rivalling each other in taste and decoration, whilst the huge mass of granite, called the Dublin Mountains, shelters these charming retreats of civic opulence from the rude visitation of the southerly storms. This variously‐chequered, grand, and delightful scene, cannot fail to fill the mind with the most pleasing images, notwithstanding the miseries that brood upon the land.