Introduction : Ḥayyim Ḥabshūsh and the European explorers -- The people and politics of Yemen -- A note on the text and translation -- A vision of Yemen by Ḥayyim Ḥabshūsh -- Arrival in Yemen -- Excavations in Ghaymān -- Jews, Muslims and foreigners in Ṣanʻāʼ -- Strangers among the tribes -- Clients and patrons -- Death and ruins -- Jews bearing arms -- An ordeal in the desert -- The honor code of the Najrānī Jews -- Persecution -- The Bedouin -- The city of Mārib and return to Ṣanʻāʼ