Return to Moab, 2040 A.D -- You can't get here from there anymore -- Abbey's decade -- Moab at a crossroads -- Transformations -- Warnings and premonitions -- Biker insanitaire -- What hath God wrought? -- Tourists in the vortex -- The greening of wilderne$ -- Going to extremes -- The amenities boom and meltdown -- Optimistic aspects of outrage and dissent -- Finally, the naked West comes to Moab -- Something entirely different -- Return to Moab -- The golden light