CONSTRUCTION OF CLOTHING 
 
 
vent the seam from stretching. If one wishes to wear separate 
collars entirely, the neck of the waist need only be faced and the 
collar basted to place each time it is changed. 
    The high-standing, or flaring, collar should be cut and made 
like the former, except the collar stays are usually set on the collar 
before turning it right side out, after stitching the two pieces to- 
gether. The flare is sometimes supported by the use of canvas or 
other stiffening as an interlining. This must be somewhat soft in 
finish or the lines of the collar will seem stiff and rigid. This collar

may be placed and finished as the one above. 
    The high, close-fitting collar, if of net, lace or ribbon, should be

made as described under Net Guimpes (p. 381). If the collar is 
made of the dress material, it should be cut from a fitted pattern. 
If to be bound with braid in one with the waist, do not allow seams 
at the top or right-hand end. It is well to baste a bias strip of 
thin cambric or taffeta along the edge, to make it firm for sewing 
the braid to place. If the collar is to be stitched at the top in keep- 
ing with other stitching on the waist, or otherwise trimmed, the 
upper and lower edges should be turned to wrong side and basted; 
also the right-hand end. Place a bias strip of cambric along the 
line of the turning, and turn edges over this. If the collar is to be 
trimmed with folds, or braid is to be applied, all this should be 
done before the lining is put in. Press carefully. If hooks are used 
as fastenings, these should be sewed to place before lining is put in. 
Cut lining of silk or satin cross-wise. Turn edges in, baste to place, 
and hem to collar. Stays would be better placed under the lining so 
that they may not cause friction. Use buttonholed loops instead 
of eyes for fastening. Do not turn in left-hand end of cloth. Let 
lining bind it over, to prevent thicknesses. Bind the neck of the 
waist with seam binding, place collar and sew to neck of waist. 
   Trimming.-All trimming, such as revers, folds, cords, braids, 
passementerie, etc., should be basted to such places as are indicated 
in fitting the dress, but these should not be sewed until after the 
final fitting. Braiding in design, if placed on the body of the dress, 
should also be worked out before the dress is finally put together. 
When using such on collars, cuffs or revers, the outline of these 
should be marked on the material from the fitted pattern of each and 
the braiding done before the pieces are lined. The same is true of 
designs embroidered in coarse silks or worsteds. All bands and folds 
 
 
374