CONSTRUCTION OF CLOTHING 
 
 
instead small carefully made running stitches to keep the upper 
side from turning out. Press the placket carefully before sewing 
the snaps to place. 
   Stitching Seams.-Follow the rules given for tailored skirts 
Heed carefully the rule for stitching seams with bias edges. 
   Finishing Seams.--Judgment must be used in selecting the 
best method of finishing seams of woolen dresses. The edges may be 
pinked where they will not fray, i.e., challis, albatross, broadcloth. 
Overcasting may be used on serges or diagonals., In making up 
transparent woolen material, such as voile, which requires a silk 
slip or lining, it is better to bind the seams with bias strips of the 
lining if overcasting shows through. Baste the bias strips on and 
stitch with the seam. Trim seams to three-eighth inch and turn 
binding over and hem to stitching. The same method may usually 
be followed for both waist and skirt seams. Press seams before and 
after finishing. When pressing seams open, use small seam board 
so that only edge of seam receives the hard pressure of the iron. 
Then lay on flat board and press whole seam lightly, if necessary. 
    Laying and Finishing Hem.-The hem of the skirt may be 
laid and finished like that of the tailored skirt (Fig. 215), where the 
matcrial is heavy, but where light weight woolen materials, such 
as challis and albatross are used, when the hem has been cut evenly, 
turn in the top one-quarter inch, baste and press; then gather the 
fulness in at the top and after basting this top edge to the skirt, 
blind-stitch the hem and press. Hems on voile are sometimes bound 
the same as the seams, and this binding blind-stitched to the skirt. 
When the skirt is cut on very flaring lines, a facing will be needed 
instead of a hem. Cut this according to the directions given on 
p. 263. 
    Finishing Skirt at Waist Line.-When the garment is to be 
made a one-piece dress, set the skirt to the belt on the line indicated 
in fitting, adjust fulness and stitch skirt to place. Cover raw edge 
with seam binding after the waist has been placed. The whole will 
be finished by the girdle or outside belt. 
    Skirt Braids.-When woolen skirts are cut very long and full, 
the lower edges need to be protected from the wear and tear of 
brushing stairs and floors. Use skirt braid for this purpose. There 
are two kinds manufactured, a worsted braid and one of mercerized 
 
 
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