CLOTHING DESIGN 
 
 
desired fulness is secured. The greater the width added, the greater 
height at the top becomes necessary until a sleeve resembling a filled 
balloon is attained. To gain added fulness, the pattern may be 
enlarged on the front seam as well as between (Fig. 73B). To cut: 
Place the center line of added fulness on the lengthwise thread of 
the material. 
    Close-fitting Sleeve.-Place pattern so that the pieces are to- 
gether from the elbow to the top. Take out a dart from elbow to 
wrist. 
    Bishop Sleeve -Same as above, omitting the dart. 
 
 
Fia. 73.-One-piece sleeves designed from two-seam sleeve pattern; A, close-fitting
sleeve 
     with dart from elbow to wrist; also bishop sleeve; B, leg-o'-mutton
sleeve. 
                   MISCELLANEOUS DESIGNS 
    Sailor Collar from Shirtwaist Pattern.-Place center of back 
of pattern on lengthwise edge of paper. Place front so that shoulder 
seam meets shoulder seam of back at armholes and neck; separate 
shoulder lines one-quarter inch at neck, and one and one-quarter 
inches at arm's eye. Cut around neck line, and design outer edge 
and front any shape desired: Cut in cambric, center back on length- 
wise fold; fit to neck (Fig. 74B). 
 
 
160