CONSTRUCTION OF CLOTHING 
 
 
   Smocking (Fig. 254) is an ornamental way of arranging and 
holding fulness in various parts of garments, in place. The material 
to be smocked must be gathered very regularly and drawn up to 
 
 
about one-Iourtn the 
measurement when 
plain, and then on 
the surface of the 
gathers ornamental 
stitches are worked. 
In order to make the 
gathering very regu- 
lar, the material 
should first bemarked 
or "charted" on the 
wrong side by hori- 
zontal rows of dots, 
the space between the 
dots, usually from 
one-eighth to three- 
eighth inch, to be 
governed   by    the 
weight of material 
and the amount to 
be gathered (F i g. 
252). The distance 
between the horizon- 
tal  rows  of   dots, 
varies  from  three- 
eighth to three-quar- 
ter inch. The dots 
may be marked with 
pencil, using a ruler 
to measure and guide, 
 
 
  Fta. 252.-A, charting material; B, gathering material,  or iransier paterns

                                           may   be   purchased 
and used for this purpose. For the gathering, use strong thread, 
No. 40 to No. 60, according to the weight of the material; work on 
the wrong side, take one little back-stitch at the first dot to prevent 
knot pulling through material later on, then gather by lifting the