CORSET COVERS AND PETTICOATS 
 
 
for faultless line, and then for excellent finish, Do not neglect: 
to try the garment on to test the lines of neck and armhole. 
   Quantity of Material and Trimming.-To calculate, open the 
pattern, lay the straight edge of the front on the edge of the table 
(representing the fold of the goods) ; slip the back into the curve ofý

the neck of the front, the straight edge of the back on a fold (edge 
of table). Lay peplum pattern, so that center back is on the fold. 
Then measure from the lowest end of the front to the highest pointi 
on the peplum, to ascertain the quantity needed for the body of the 
corset cover. For trimming, measure neck curve and armhole, and 
calculate, allowing plenty of material for seaming and matching 
patterns. 
    Making Corset Cover.-The garment chosen for instruction 
in the principles of making, is a corset cover to be cut from a pattern 
developed from a shirtwaist pattern, which has already been tested 
and fitted. The garment is to be simply trimmed with tucks, bead- 
ing, lace and featherstitching (Fig. 161). It is important at the 
beginning to gain a clear understanding of constructive principles, 
rather than spend a great deal of time on non-essential points which 
will be covered later in the making of many garments. 
    1. Prepare material according to directions on p. 227. 
    2. Box plait, hem and tuck~s should be placed in the material 
before cutting the garment out. For this purpose: 
    (a) Measure the length for the waist line on the center front 
of the pattern to the neck curve. 
    (b) Measure from the cut ends of the material on the fold, the 
same amount as above, plus two inches; place a pin, and from this. 
pin trace along the woof threads for three to four inches. 
    (c) Decide on the finished width of the box plait (one inch), 
and cut from the fold, on the traced line, through both thicknesses 
of cloth, twice the width of the plait, plus the turn. Cut through 
the fold to cut ends of the material. 
    (d) Lay box plait and hem, with regard to the right and left 
hand side when garment is cut; baste to place. 
    (e) Plan, measure and run tucks (p. 400), leaving ends of 
thread at both top and bottom when tuck is finished, so that after 
fitting, if desired, they can be lengthened or shortened without 
breaking or joining threads. 
    (f) Lay box plait and hem together, folding both directly 
through the center. 
 
 
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