CONSTRUCTION OF TAILORED WAISTS 
 
 
and forth. Stitch across the ends. Turn right side out and the cuff 
is ready to place (Fig. 186B). 
    Frenrch or Turn-back Cuff.-This is usually made of two pieces 
of cloth. Cut the length desired by twice the depth, plus one-quarter- 
inch seams. If cut of one piece, the same length by four times the 
depth. It is sometimes interlined, in which case the interlining should 
be cut the full size of the cuff as it cannot be cross-stitched to the 
under side. When the material is firm do not interline this cuff. 
There are at any rate four thicknesses of material to lie back on the 
wrist without the interlining, and in most cases it is unnecessary. 
Fold back edges one-quarter inch. as in interlined cuff, baste and 
stitch seam. Turn to right side and it is ready to place (Fig. 186C). 
    Placing Cuff.-Find a point one inch beyond the center of the 
length of the cuff. Place this point to the seam of the sleeve, letting 
the shorter end of the cuff come to the under side of the sleeve. Set 
the folded edge of the cuff to the outer row of gathers, adjust ful- 
ness. If cuffs are to be used for links, turn the under side of the 
placket back on the sleeve and set both within the cuff. If the cuff 
is to button over, do not fold the under placket back (Fig. 186H 
and I). Be sure that both sides of placket measure the same 
length. Baste cuff to place. Let under fold of cuff, or in the triple 
fold cuff, let the selvedge lie directly on top of the gathers, on the 
under side of the sleeve; baste to place. Make a continuous stitch- 
ing all around the cuff, close to the edge, and where it joins the 
sleeve add a second row of stitching one-quarter inch from the first, 
straight across the sleeve. Remove second row of gathers from 
sleeve (Fig. 186G). 
    Placing Sleeve in Armhole.-In order to place a sleeve correctly, 
 it is necessary to have some point in the armhole at which to set the 
 seam of the sleeve, as well as points between which to scatter the 
 gathers. To ascertain these, first measure one inch back of the 
 shoulder seam on the armhole; from this point fold the armhole in 
 half; this locates the point at which to place the sleeve seam. Then 
 fold the armhole again so that the underarm and shoulder seams 
 meet; the gathers are to be distributed on the top of the armhole 
 between the two points just found. Lay waist on table, slip sleeve 
 in armhole; pin seam to mark, and sleeve as far as it is to be 
 plain, holding waist towards you while pinning and basting the sleeve 
 in place. Hold under part of sleeve easy so as not to draw waist 
 
 
325