CONSTRUCTION OF CLOTHING 
 
 
   Cutting Dress.-Cut all around the edges of a commercial or 
draped pattern, but allow seams beyond the edge of a drafted pat- 
tern. For skirts, allow one and one-half inches on length seams, 
one-half inch at waist, and the hem plus one-quarter inch turn at the 
bottom; for waists, one inch on underarm and shoulder and all 
length seams; one-quarter inch at neck and arm's eye; allow one inch 
for turning at center back or front where waist fastens; also one 
inch on length seams of sleeve, and one-quarter inch top and bottom. 
    Marking Seams.--Use tailor basting to mark seams of wool 
dresses or trace on chalkboard; also for marking tucks, plaits, edges 
of panels, lines on which trimmings are to be placed. Mark notches 
with a few small running stitches. In marking plaits it is well to 
use two colors of thread, one to indicate the folded edge of the plait, 
the other to indicate the point to which the plait is to be folded over.

Be very careful to place a line of basting to indicate center front 
and center back of both waist and skirt. These aid in pinning the 
garment together for fitting and also in seeing whether the skirt 
and waist hang evenly. They are good guides for measurements 
when fitting and making alterations. Observe great care in marking 
seams, etc. 
    Basting Skirt and Waist for Fitting.-If the material upon 
which you are working frays badly, overcast the edges roughly to 
keep them in good shape while working. Stay all bias edges, open 
necks, plackets, etc., with narrow strips of cambric one-quarter inch, 
to prevent stretching while fitting. Lay these strips flat on the edge 
of the material and baste with long stitches, being careful not to 
stretch the bias while placing the stay. 
    Pin the pieces of the skirt and waist together according to the 
 notches.  Observe the general rules for basting skirts and waists 
 keeping in mind that most woolen material stretches very easily 
 and therefore must be carefully handled. If by any chance you 
 may have been so unfortunate as to stretch a bias edge of your 
 material, as for instance the neck of a waist, if you will first run 
 a fine gathering thread through the edge and dampen the cloth 
 thoroughly, you can shrink the edge to its natural size by using 
 a warm iron to press it, drawing the fulness in, but not letting 
 the iron rest heavily on the cloth, repeat dampening and pressing 
 until it has all fulness shrunk in. 
 
 
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