CONSTRUCTIVE PROCESSES: STITCHES 
 
 
exactly below the end of the slit; the distance from the edge will 
be governed by the size of the buttonhole and the kind of material. 
From three to five overcasting stitches should be made on each side 
of the buttonhole, according to its length. (b) Buttonhole stitch. 
The last overcasting stitch (Fig. 117) will be exactly opposite to 
the first one; now bring the needle through immediately below the 
first overcasting stitch, which should bring the thread into position 
for the first buttonhole stitch at the inner end of the slit (if the 
latter is cut at right angles to the edge of garment) ; pass the needle 
through the slit and bring it up through the cloth exactly beside the 
last stitch; while the needle is still in the cloth, pass the double 
strand of thread from the eye of the needle around the point of the 
needle, from right to left, then pull the needle through the cloth and 
straight up from the edge of the slit (not at an angle) in order to 
place the stitch properly with the purl or twist right on the raw edge 
of cloth, being careful not to pull cloth too tight, which would pucker 
cloth and make the edge of buttonhole uneven. Repeat the button- 
hole stitch until the first side has been worked. (c) The outer end 
of buttonhole may be finished as a fan by continuing the buttonhole 
stitches around the end (usually five or seven to complete the turn), 
letting the purl of each stitch lie very close to the preceding one in 
the end of the slit, and the other ends of the stitches radiate from 
the end, of the buttonhole like the stick of a folding fan, the center 
stitch should extend straight out from the end of slit. Now the 
buttonhole stitch may be continued along the second side of button- 
hole toward the inner end, which is to be finished with a bar. (d) 
When the last buttonhole stitch has been made, bring the needle 
through as if for another buttonhole stitch, but do not pass the 
thread around the point of the needle, pull it through and put the 
needle down in the hole made by the first buttonhole stitch on the 
opposite side of slit, thus laying a straight stitch across the end of the

slit; make two or three stitches the same way, exactly on top of each 
other, then turn the buttonhole around so it lies straight across the 
cushion of first finger and work tiny blanket stitches (Fig. 117) over 
the long stitches just made; so that the twist or purl of the blanket 
stitch is toward the buttonhole, catch each stitch in the cloth behind 
the bar, and work them close enough together to completely cover 
the bar; fasten the thread by running it back under the stitches on 
the wrong side of the work. The buttonholes (unless very long) 
may be worked with one thread throughout, but should it be neces- 
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