CONSTRUCTION OF CLOTHING 
 
 
fell. Trim the front shoulder to one-quarter inch and the back 
shoulder to three-eighth inch. Baste fell and stitch it. Re-baste 
sleeve to blouse at shoulder, stitch sleeve and trim sleeve to one- 
quarter inch and waist three-eighth inch. Turn the blouse down 
on the sleeve, baste as a fell, and stitch. 
    Collar.-The collar facing, which is the upper side of the collar 
when finished, the part to which the decoration is applied, should be 
one-eighth inch larger on the sides and lower edges than the collar. 
 
 
   FG. 176.-Middy collar, cuff and box plaited sleeve; A, detail of cuff
placing; B, finish 
         at wrist of a box plaited sleeve; C, D, braiding on collar and cuff.

If the collar is to be trimmed with braid and stars, this must be 
done before the facing and the collar are put together (Fig. 176C). 
Baste the braid to place, setting the outside edge of the first row far 
enough from the edge of the collar to allow for the seam, and a 
pleasing arrangement of spaces. Baste and stitch the upper edge 
of the braid, turning the corners with good miters which face in 
opposite directions. Place the right side of the facing to the right 
side of the collar, baste and stitch around the sides and lower edge, 
leaving neck open. Trim the corners of the seams diagonally, to 
 
 
304