SIMPLE PROBLEMS IN CLOTHING DESIGN 
 
 
marks. Slash across skirt from hip seam at the point indicating the 
height of and as much as the width of the plait and any desired 
shape. Fold material back on line indicated for width of plait. 
Repeat with other gore, pin hip seam as far as top of skirt and turn 
in edges of slash. Cut a strip of material eight times the width of 
the plait by its length, plus seams for joining to skirt. Fold plaits 
facing each other in material and baste; slip the plait just made into 
position, face edge of slash to top of plaits and seam plaits as in the 
other skirts. 
   Skirt With Panel and Yoke in One, Circular or Plaited Side.- 
Lay all the pieces of the pattern together upon a piece of drafting 
paper. Draw the outline of the panel (which may be the width of 
the original) and the yoke on the pattern, and trace the outline of 
the panel and yoke; also the outline of the remainder of the skirt. 
Cut paper pattern apart, mark for joining, allow seams when cutting 
in material. For plaited side, trace hip seam and place for plaits 
according to any of the directions given above (Mig. 68D). 
    Shaped Plaited Skirt.-Shaped lower edge for use in plain 
material. Trace a circular foundation pattern one and one-half 
to twice the hip measure. Mark hip line; test hip measure. 
Divide the bottom of the pattern into equal parts, according to the 
type of plait desired-wide or narrow. Divide the hip line into 
the same number of equal parts. Draw heavy lines connecting these 
points. Lay a sheet of tissue or pattern paper along the front, pin, 
trace the fold of the first plait, then measure beyond the first 
fold of the pattern, once the depth of the plait desired, this for 
the inner fold of the plait. From this, once again the depth of 
the plait. Draw lines through these points and fold plait so that 
the line of first fold of the pattern touches the second width of plait 
measure. Repeat throughout skirt. Mark the space between hip 
and bottom accurately and fold plaits carefully. Use the pattern for 
cutting material (Fig. 68A and B). 
   Designing Straight Plaited Skirts Without Use of Pattern.- 
For stripes and plaids (Fig. 68C). (1) Take measure as for draft- 
ing skirt pattern. (2) Cut enough straight widths of material (each 
to equal the longest length of the skirt, plus the hem), to give the 
desired width around the bottom two and three-quarters to four and 
one-half yards. Seam these widths together; if plaids, see that they 
match, provision for which must have been made in cutting. Do 
 
 
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