CONSTRUCTION OF CLOTHING 
 
 
straight, holds    the 
seam too tight, making 
it pucker the outside of 
the skirt unless care- 
fully handled. Seams 
must be pressed after 
stitching, either open 
or together; if open, 
press   over  rounded 
board at first to prevent 
iron from marking the 
surface.   Then press 
flat (Fig. 212). 
    Hem.ý-The line at 
the bottom of the skirt 
should be turned and 
the hem marked in 
the same manner as 
that on the linen skirt 
(p. 344).    There are 
several ways to finish 
the hem at the top. 
Remove    the  fulness 
either by gathers, and 
shrink fulness out be- 
fore placing binding 
(Fig. 213) or by darts. 
(1) Cloths which do 
not   fray   may    be 
pinked   in the edge, 
if the hem is to be 
stitched  by  machine 
(Fig. 215C). (2)Baste 
a strip of Prussian 
binding to the top of 
the hem, holding the 
binding   very   easy; 
stitch and press; then 
baste the upper edge 
 
 
  urIo. i.-rmlIsn tor lower eage or wooL Rlart; A, nem  ,--  e1I  JIUu11
IAn  n   W; 
turned and pinned; B, fulness drawn up by gathers; C, ful- 
ness shrunken out and Prussian binding basted to hem. 
 
 
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