CLOTHING DESIGN 
 
 
the two pieces of the pattern mark points for hip line, darts, and 
seaming; remove pattern. At top allow one-quarter-inch seam, 
center front, at hip and center back one-half inch, and nothing at the 
bottom. Turn in all edges on the seam lines except the waist, and 
bottom. Cut strips of paper one inch wide and the length of the 
seams; crease the center of the strip and lay the folded edge of the 
gores along this center crease; pin to place and represent stitching 
with pencil or basting (Fig. 65A and B). This seam finish is called 
a slot seam. 
    Two- and Three-gore Skirts.-This same combination of gores 
may be used to design a two- or three-gore skirt. The openings of 
a two-gore skirt would come over the hip or under a strap or pocket. 
   Turn up skirt at the bottomn one and one-half inches (Fig. 65A). 
   Directions for Cutting.-This pattern may be marked to cut in 
one of two ways: (1) If one desires a skirt to be plain in the front, 
with flare over the hips and in the back, place the centre front and 
the front edge of the second piece on the lengthwise thread of the 
goods; this will bring a bias edge on' the back of the first side gore 
and a bias seam in the center back. (2) To make the skirt flare at 
the sides and back, and ripple in front as well, place the pattern so 
that the center of each gore is on the lengthwise thread of the goods; 
this cutting makes all seams bias. 
    2. Four-gare Skirt (Fulness at Top).-Place pattern in the 
same way as in No. 1, but add as much fulness at the waist to the 
back of each gore as desired, drawing line from this point to the 
bottom of the skirt. This will necessitate a new waist line extending 
through the added width. To draft this, place the long arm of the 
square on the center front and the short arm touching the highest 
point of the second gore; mark on the new seam line a point opposite 
this. Then draw waist line from the centre front to this point. 
Measure new seam line from this point and make it the length of 
the original line; draw a new line from this for the bottom of gore. 
Proceed in the same way for the seconl piece. 
   Directions for Cutting.-Mark pattern for placing. (1) Center 
front and center back on a lengthwise thread or fold which makes 
hip seam bias on both edges, or (2) center front on lengthwise 
thread or fold and hip seam on a lengthwise thread which gives a 
slightly bias seam in the center back. This skirt is good for cutting 
in thin cotton, soft silk or cr~pe. 
 
 
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