MIDDY BLOUSE: MANNISH SHIRT 
 
 
    Basting Shirt.-Baste box plait in front or hem if coat finish 
is desired (Fig. 182). If the back is plain, turn the bottom edge of 
the yoke in and baste it to place on the back. For a plain back, 
baste seam of front and back at shoulder, through yoke. If the 
back is to be gathered, the yoke will be in two pieces. Gather the 
back (two rows of gathers one-quarter inch apart), between the 
points indicated on the pattern. Turn the lower edge of the back 
yoke in, baste, and place on the upper row of gathers, distributing 
these in the spaces marked. Treat the under yoke in the same way, 
and baste to place. Turn under the front edges of both under and 
upper yokes, and baste to the front of waist at the seam line. Baste 
sleeve to place according to the directions for the middy blouse 
sleeve (p. 302).    Baste the sleeve and underarm   seam  as one. 
Gather the sleeve at hand and baste one thickness of the cuff and 
collar band to place temporarily, for fitting. IPlace the waist band 
and baste. 
    Fitting Shirt.-Put the shirt on; pin the fronts together so 
that the box plait and hem lap in proper position, or two hems, if 
hem opening is used. Look it over carefully. If the neck is too 
low, rip outside yoke and take up the seam at shoulder; if too loose, 
fold box plait and hem deeper to reduce size. If the shoulder seam 
is raised much, cut armhole down at underarm seam to make it the 
correct size for sleeve; the sleeve will also be too full at top, in which

case take in on seam; if necessary, re-cut at top to make correct 
shape. See that the sleeve is the correct length; notice also the 
position of the waist band and the distribution of gathers. 
    When the fitting is completed, remove the shirt and make neces- 
sary alterations. Slip it on again to see that it is correct. Change 
pattern to coincide with the corrections in the shirt. 
    Stitching Shirt.-Remove cuff and collar band, open underarm 
seam and stitch box plait one-quarter inch from each edge, the hem 
directly on the inner edge, and back and front yoke on the edge, also 
one-quarter inch above. Stitch sleeve at armhole on the basting, 
with upper stitch on top side of sleeve. Trim seam of sleeve to one- 
quarter inch and shirt to three-eighth inch. Turn edge of shirt in, 
baste, and stitch on edge. 
    Placket.-Place and stitch placket facings according to the 
directions for placket on p. 323. Stitch seam of sleeve and under- 
arm seam in a continuous line. Finish as a fell one-quarter inch 
 
 
309