OUTER-GARMENTS OF WOOLEN MATERIAL 
 
 
cotton. The latter is more satisfactory, because it does not mar the 
shoes as much as the worsted, although it may not wear quite as 
long. If the worsted braid be used, it should be shrunk before 
sewing to the skirt. 
    Placing the Braid.-Let the edge of the braid extend one- 
eighth inch below the edge of the skirt, baste to place. Sew one- 
quarter inch above the lower edge with running stitches and hem 
the upper edge to the skirt. Use Kerr's luster thread letter "A"

instead of sewing silk, as it wears better. Join the braid in the 
center back, a plain seam, opened and the raw edges catch-stitched 
to keep them smooth. 
    Making Waist.-Seams.-When necessary alterations are com- 
pleted, stitch the seams of the waist, clip to within one-quarter inch 
of the stitching at the waist line and two inches above and below, 
press open, and finish the same as the skirt seams, unless for some 
reason it is necessary to use some other finish. When stitching the 
seams of a kimono waist, baste a narrow- strip of silk at the curve of 
the seam, and stitch with the seam. This will stay it at the point 
of greatest strain. Clip the seams at the deepest part of the curve to 
within one-quarter inch of the stitching. Round the corners of 
the notches just made.    If the waist has a sleeve set into the 
armhole without fulness, the seam of the sleeve frequently is on 
a line with the underarm seam, in which case, first place the 
sleeve in the waist, then stitch underarm and sleeve seam in a con- 
tinuous line. 
    Sleeves.-Seams.-Stitch and finish the seams of the sleeves 
the same as the waist. If the sleeve has two seams, notch the in- 
side seam at the elbow, and two inches above and two inches below, 
to prevent it from drawing. Notch the seam of a one-piece sleeve 
in the same way. Round the corners of the notches and press the 
seams open. Use the small round seam board to slip inside the 
sleeve when pressing seams. 
    Placket and Facing.-Sleeves that fit snugly at the wrist should 
have the seam left open two inches above the bottom of the sleeve, 
to allow the hand to slip through easily. When the placket is 
finished, the upper side of the sleeve is folded back on a line with 
the seam and the under side is left open to serve as an extension. 
To face the sleeve, cut a bias strip of cambric, three-quarter inch 
wide. Baste this strip on the wrong side of the sleeve, letting the 
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