CONSTRUCTION OF CLOTHING 
 
 
fastening, the lower edge of the sleeve (Fig. 176A-B). (b) A very 
fiat smooth finish can be made by first turning the upper side of the 
placket on a line with the upper side of the fell on the sleeve; the 
lower edge of the sleeve one-quarter inch (mitering the corners), 
and the under side of the placket one-eighth inch beyond the under 
edge of the fell; baste linen tape three-eighth inch wide to sleeve to 
form a facing; stitch on both edges, letting stitching cross at top of 
placket. Place buttonholes lengthwise of this placket and use small 
buttons, two or three, according to the length of the placket, 
Fig. 176A and B. 
    Cuffs.-Either method described for finishing the placket may 
be used for a sleeve finished with a cuff. If the collar has been 
trimmed with braid, the cuff should also have braid on it. The 
braid is usually placed as shown in Fig. 176D, but not so as to inter- 
fere with the buttonholes. Stitch the braid to the outer piece of 
the cuff, then place the two right sides of the cuff together, turning 
the edges which will be set on the sleeve back one-quarter inch and 
creasing them firmly. Baste through these turned edges when seam- 
ing the cuff; stitch, trim corners, turn and baste edges to hold them 
firm. Gather sleeve as indicated on pLttern; slip the edge of the 
sleeve between the two turned edges of the cuff, adjust the gathers 
according to the marks, baste first the outer turned edge of cuff, then 
the inner. Make a continuous stitching around the edge of the cuff 
(Fig. 176A). 
   A false cuff is sometimes used on the box-plaited sleeve. It is 
made of a single lengthwise strip of material basted to the wrong 
side of the sleeve after the placket has been faced, stitched and turned

to the right side and stitched again. This strip of material may be 
trimmed with braid the same as the cuff. One buttonhole length- 
wise of the cuff should be sufficient because'the cuff is narrow. The 
outer end of the buttonhole should be one-half inch from the end 
of the cuff and placed in the centre of the depth. There should be 
one buttonhole lengthwise of the placket and three-quarter inch 
above the cuff. 
    Short sleeves may be finished with a turn-back cuff, a plain cuff 
or the edge of the sleeve may be hemmed and the sleeve rolled 
when worn. 
    The lower edge of the blouse may be finished with a three- 
 
 
306