CONSTRUCTION OF CLOTHING 
 
 
far apart as they are deep. In turning corners, take two stitches 
through same hole to form a V. If gored seams are being over- 
cast, begin at the bottom so as not to work against the ends of 
threads at the edges (Fig. 108). 
   To fasten: Two small stitches on under side and second stitch 
knotted. 
   To join: Fasten and begin as at first. 
   Hemming.-A hem is a finish for the edges of garments, etc., 
secured by making two folds at the edge, narrow or wide as need 
may be. The first turn for a narrow hem, may be one-eighth inch 
 
 
                       Fia. 108.-Overcasting. 
or less; for wider hems, usually one-quarter inch, rarely more. The 
width of narrow hems in turning, may be gauged by the eye, but 
wider hems must be measured, pricked in, on undergarments, turned 
on the pricks and creased. Hems on outergarments may be measured 
and creased at end of marker, or marked with pins or tailor's chalk. 
In measuring, use a marker made of cardboard, with carefully 
measured spaces. Flannel necessitates the basting of the first turn, 
as otherwise it will not hold (Fig. 109). 
   Plain Stitch.-Form: A slanting stitch through the cloth and 
fold. Stitch slants on right side also. 
 
 
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