PATTERN MAKING 
 
 
to the underarm seam. Remove waist, trace alterations, open seams 
and trace on opposite side of waist; rebaste, and try on again. 
    Place sleeve and neck band before second fitting. 
    Neck Band.-Only one thickness is necessary for fitting. Turn 
shoulder seams toward front. Fold band on tracing and baste. 
Find center of band, place to center of neck, on right side of waist, 
pin edge of band on neck line of waist, being careful not to stretch 
neck; let end of collar band cover the one-inch extension. Waist 
Band: Baste a piece of tape or band made of cambric to waist at 
center back, ready to adjust fulness when fitting. Cuff: Turn edges 
of the single piece used for fitting, baste to place. Gather the bottom 
of the sleeves one-quarter inch from edge, leaving three-quarter inch 
plain each side of seam. Place cuff on gathers, letting the end 
extend one-half inch beyond placket opening on the upper side of 
the sleeve. Baste to sleeve. 
   To Place Sleeve in Waist.-Mark armhole, measure one inch 
back of shoulder seam on armhole. Fold armhole in half at this 
point, and at the opposite point, on the lower part of the armhole, 
mark the place for the seam of the sleeve. Then fold armhole again, 
so that the shoulder and underarm seams meet, and mark the points 
at opposite sides of armhole; between these points on the top of the 
armhole place the fulness of the sleeve. Hold waist on table with 
wrong side and lower part of armhole toward you; place sleeve so 
that the seam comes to the point marked for it; then pin sleeve 
in as far as it should be plain, but ease sleeve so that armhole will 
not be tight. By holding waist in this position, the sleeve will shape 
itself to the lower part of the armhole. Then gather sleeve between 
points indicated on armhole, using two rows of gathers, one on the 
traced line, the other one-quarter inch below it on the sleeve (this 
row is taken out when waist is finished). Adjust fulness, (holding 
armhole in same position), so that the greatest amount comes on 
top of the shoulder. Baste with small stitches. 
   Second Fitting of Waist.-See that all alterations have carried 
out what was intended. Look over sleeve. See that the straight 
grain of the material falls from the bone at the shoulder; if it draws 
forward or backward, rip and adjust the gathers. Notice the arm- 
hole line; correct line if not good. If the sleeve is too long, pin a 
tuck across it above or below the elbow, as need may be. If too full, 
rip part way at shoulder and pin tuck lengthwise to remove extra 
 
 
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