CONSTRUCTION OF CLOTHING 
 
 
cuff on the line of the outside edge. Stitch through cuff at the top, 
or finish in any way that the waist is finished. The cuff may be 
finished at the hand with a hem, with or without frill of lace, or in 
almost any way fancy dictates. 
    Collars.-If the waist is to have a high closing, turn the lower 
edge of the collar up three-eighth inch; place this folded edge to 
the neck line of the waist, baste to place. Let the end of the collar 
extend across both hem and box plait of the waist. This collar will 
need to be folded away to fit in the center back, which will make it 
somewhat bias, or else a dart will need to be taken out in the side 
of the collar. Face the ends of the collar with net braid or material 
of the waist, cut lengthwise. Finish the collar at the bottom as the 
cuff is finished. If of lace, hem to the right side of the waist and 
whip the raw edge of the inside of the waist. Roll and whip the top 
of the collar, which can be shaped somewhat to fit the curve of the 
neck, unless tucked close to the top. Finish with an edge of in- 
sertion, a cord, or shaped pieces turning over the edge. To keep the 
collar in position, sew stays of wire, one on the left hand end, and 
one on each side on a line with the highest point at the side. Always 
use washable stays. Fasten the collar with buttons and loops, buttons 
and buttonholes, snap fasteners, or hooks and loops. If an open 
neck is desired, cut some becoming type of turn-over collar in 
cambric, large or small, and fit to the neck of the waist which has 
been cut on the line desired. These collars may be cut single or 
double, according to the finish to be used. If the edge is to be rolled 
or hemstitched, a single thickness- will suffice, otherwise cut two. 
Place the pattern so that the center back is lengthwise of the ma- 
terial. Place the two right sides of the material together. Seam 
the outside edges together, turn through to the other side and baste 
the edges firmly. Baste along the edges that are to be joined to the 
waist, pin to place at the neck, and baste. Take a strip of material, 
bias, one inch wide and baste on the collar. Stitch through facing 
collar and neck of waist. Turn facing over, baste and hem to waist. 
Follow the same method of placing, for collar of single thickness. 
When the collar is hemstitched on the edges, if a line of hemstitching 
ornaments the front of the waist, it may also attach the collar to 
the waist. 
   Waist Closing.-Cut buttonholes lengthwise of the material if 
the waist closes in the front, with box plait; crosswise if it closes in

 
 
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