Pattern-Designing and Draping 
 
 
gestive for this work. In many cases they do not give well- 
proportioned divisions or the most becoming lines to the 
figure for which they are intended. While the general style 
of a skirt and its divisions are somewhat determined by 
fashion, they may always be modified to be in good pro- 
portion and give grace of line to the figure. All gore lines 
should be at right angles to the waist line. If the tape- 
measure is pinned at the waist and drawn down to the floor 
it shows the effect of the gore divisions distinctly and also 
gives good direction of line. Many of the gored skirts made 
may serve as foundations for more elaborate draping for 
which very few directions can be given. 
  In the draping of all skirts there are certain factors to be 
observed. 
  (i) In general, (a) if a straight-hanging skirt is desired 
-that is, straight as a plumb-line falls-the straight 
lengthwise thread should be used. This gives a waist line 
with little curve. (b) If a skirt which flares or stands away 
from the figure is required the bias should fall from the 
waist to the floor; this gives a waist line which is rather 
deeply curved. It will be remembered that, in drafting, 
the narrow, straight skirt had a fairly straight waist line 
when compared to the deeply curving one of the circular 
skirt. The same principle holds true in draping. 
  (2) In manipulating material in the skirt work it will be 
seen: (a) that in the straight skirt with the straight length- 
wise threads there is always the straight crosswise thread 
of the material around the hip; (b) that as the material 
is drawn up off the straight crosswise grain from the front 
toward the back, the skirt becomes narrower at the bottom 
line and fuller at the hip; (c) that, on the contrary, as the 
grain is allowed to sag or drop, making the circular waist 
line, the skirt begins to flare. The amount of flare is always 
determined by the depth of the waist circle, the greatest 
flare coming where the circle is deepest. 
  As facility is secured in executing waist and skirt designs 
in rather simple materials, those requiring more skill in 
manipulation and a more subtle combination of textures 
and colors should be attempted, their choice depending 
 
 
311