Dressmaking 
 
 
ety in twist and in finish, there are many sizes and kinds 
of gilt and silver threads, chenille and art worsteds, also 
rat-tail braid, soutache braid, soft ribbons, beads, bugles, 
spangles, and brilliants. 
  The choice of embroidery materials depends on the gar-, 
ment to be decorated; that is, it depends on the purpose 
for which the garment is intended, the fabric of which it is 
made, and the kind of stitches which are chosen as suit- 
able for the fabric and the design. 
  In the following explanation of the various stitches an 
effort has been made to suggest possible uses and suitable 
embroidery materials for each; but, as has already been 
said, too much depends upon the changing demands of 
fashion to permit much detail. 
  In making any kind of embroidery stitches a knot 
should not be used in starting. The thread may be fast- 
ened at the beginning and at the end of the work by a few 
stitches easily concealed by the embroidery. 
  4. Stitches. 
  (i) Running Stitch. 
  (a) Use.-This is an adaptation of the running stitch 
used in sewing. The method of procedure in sewing and 
in embroidery is the same; but in the latter there may be 
variation in the proportionate length of stitch .and space, 
according to its use. 
  The running stitch has various uses to outline a de- 
sign with a single row of even stitches (the proportionate 
length of stitch and space should be well chosen); to form 
a design such as that of a leaf or a flower petal'by grouping 
a number of uneven stitches; to simulate braiding, which 
is generally used to form a border, by a few parallel rows 
of even stitches; to make a background by covering the 
entire surface with parallel rows of stitches. 
   (b) Materials.-In general such threads should be used 
as pull through easily and are suited to the material and 
the design. These include a great variety of gold and 
silver threads, embroidery silks, and worsteds. The very 
decorative chenilles and soft ribbons may also be used, 
with care, on many fabrics. The softly twisted threads 
 
 
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