Index 
 
 
  pinning in place for fitting, 220. 
  placing on material, 218. 
  purchase of commercial pattern, 244. 
  rebasting pattern, 223. 
  refitting pattern, 223, 224. 
  regulation measures, 209. 
  seam allowances, 217, 218. 
  shoulders in fitting, 221. 
  style, 313, 314. 
  taking measures, 166-169. 
  testing in commercial pattern, 244- 
       247. 
  testing draft, 217. 
Tools-'- 
  for use in drafting, 172. 
  for use in dressmaking, 157-I6o. 
  for use in embroidery, 452, 453. 
Tow, processes, 114, 115. 
Tracing-wheel- 
  selection, 159. 
  use in marking, 164. 
Traverse feed, 52. 
Treadles, 69. 
Triple skirts- 
  designing on skirt pattern, 286-288. 
True or line fibre- 
  processes for- 
     breaking, I I i. 
     doubling and drawing, I12, 113. 
     drying, i II. 
     finishing, 114. 
     gillig, 112. 
     hackling, III. 
     retting,,x Ir. 
     rippling, 10o. 
     spinning, 113. 
     twisting, 113. 
     weaving, 114. 
Trumpet, 51. 
Tucked or corded shirring- 
  use for securing fulness, 445. 
Tucks- 
  basting in skirts, 385. 
  basting in skirt seam for placket, 398. 
  designing on shirt-waist pattern, 262, 
       263. 
  designing on skirt pattern, 272-274. 
  making in front of shirt-waist, 319, 
       320, 321. 
   use in joining ruffles to foundation 
       skirts or linings, 419, 420. 
   use, lengthwise, for securing fulness, 
       445. 
Tunic, 9, 10, II, 12, 14. 
Tunics- 
   designing on skirt pattern, 285, 286. 
Turning in edges- 
   use in finishing seams, 423, 424. 
Turnover collars- 
   finishing in shirt-waists, 338. 
   placing and cutting, 321. 
 
 
507 
 
 
Twizzle, 66. 
Two-gore skirts, how cut, 379. 
 
Unity in design of costume, 255. 
Upright spinning-frames, 64-67. 
 
Velvet- 
  basting, i 6o. 
  mirror velvet made from, 163 
  pressing, 163. 
  nap- 
     in cutting, 163. 
     in pressing, 163. 
     use in designing, 295. 
 Vertugale, 19. 
 V-shaped neck fine- 
   finish of in evening-waist linings, 369- 
       372. 
 
Waist line- 
   arranging fulness in skirts, 386, 387. 
   decorative finishes in skirts attached 
       to waists, 414, 415, 
   decorative finishes in separate skirts, 
       409-414. 
   finishing in foundation skirts or li- 
       nings, 405-407. 
   finishing in semifitting linings, 358, 
       359- 
   finishing in separate skirts, 4o7, 4o9- 
       414. 
   finishing in skirts, 387, 388. 
   finishing in skirts attached to waists, 
       408, 409, 414, 415. 
   non-decorative finishes in separate 
       skirts, 409. 
   non-decorative finishes in skirts at- 
       tached to waists, 408, 409. 
 Waists- 
   basting in shirt-waist, 328, 329. 
   measures, how taken, i66-x69. 
   placing in shirt-waist, .324. 
   types, 313, 314. 
 Warp- 
   preparation of and threading for 
       hand and power looms, 73-76. 
 Warp-beam, 68. 
 Warp printing, design by, 128, 12Q. 
 Waste silk. See spun or waste silk. 
 Waste wool- 
   dusting, xo3. 
   removing burrs, io3. 
 Water-frame, 59, 6o. 
 Watteau fashions, 15, 30, 32, 35. 
 Weaves- 
   basket, 13o. 
   classification, 129. 
   design, 129. 
   double cloth, 136. 
   double pile, 137, 138. 
   figure, 135.