Textile Manufacture 
 
 
a larger quantity. (e) Spraying.-This is done by forcing 
water on the fabric, much as sprinkling is done in laundry 
work preparatory to ironing.   (f) Calendering.-All ma- 
terials are pressed with heavy rolls. The detail of this 
process differs somewhat according to the finish required. 
For example: for ginghams and long cloths, which do not 
have polished surfaces, cold rollers are used in the calen- 
dering, as merely rolling contact is required to give the 
desired result; for cambrics, which do have polished sur- 
faces, hot rollers revolving at different rates, of speed are 
used as heat and friction are required to give polish. (g) 
Bleaching, Dyeing, or Printing.-If material is to be white, 
it is necessary to bleach it. If it is to be colored, and the 
raw stock or yarn was not dyed, it is dyed in the piece. 
Many materials have a design printed on the surface of the 
fabric by some of the usual methods rather than woven in. 
Such fabrics usually require a preliminary bleaching. 
   (2) Special Processes.-Cotton, by special treatment, 
may be made to look like silk, linen, or wool. 
   (a) The general method of giving cotton the appearance 
of silk is by mercerization-a process in which the cotton is 
subjected under tension to a concentrated caustic alkali 
bath. As a result, the fibre becomes round, full, and rod- 
like and reflects the light sufficiently to give a lustrous 
surface. This can be more satisfactorily done to the yarn 
than to the woven fabric, but it is done to either. 
   (b) Many methods are used to make cotton cloth look 
like linen. None of the methods are permanently success- 
ful, because of the marked differences in the fibres, espe- 
cially in the length and lustre. Much dressing is usually 
required, followed by beetling, or some allied process, and 
pressing. These give the fibre all the lustre and firmness it 
is possible to secure. 
  (c) Various methods are even more frequently employed 
to give a woolen or worsted effect; the most common isý 
that of raising a nap on the surface of the fabric by using 
cylinders with napper clothing. The result gives such ma- 
terials as outing flannel, flannelette, duckling-fleece, and 
blankets. 
 
 
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