Drafting and Pattern-Making 
 
 
237 
 
 
a waist of any other design, because the shoulder seam, which 
usually plays an important part in the fitting, is lacking. 
  (i) Shoulder.-In general, a kimono waist is not becoming to a 
very sloping shoulder, and for such a figure it cannot easily be 
made to fit well. In the majority of patterns and drafts there is too 
much fulness over the shoulder, and, once the kimono is cut, but 
little of this fulness can be removed. As suggested in the draft, 
this defect may be somewhat remedied by lengthening the line DE, 
thus making the back more bias and giving a waist with less length 
over the shoulder. Sometimes a little fulness may be removed from 
the shoulder, at the back, by drawing the material toward the cen- 
tre back and taking out the surplus by changing slightly the centre- 
back line. Care must be taken not to twist the sleeve and pull it 
out of place. 
  (ii) Underarm.-Fulness under the arm is a different matter and 
may generally be removed by changing the line of the underarm 
and sleeve seam. Here, also, care must be taken, as, if too much 
material is removed, the waist is too narrow through the bust line. 
  (iii) Sleeve.-The length of sleeve is easily adjusted; it should 
be given ample length, as in movement it is somewhat drawn up 
from the hand. 
  (iv) Neck.-A standing collar or collar-band is practically never 
used on a kimono waist. In consequence, the line of the neck 
should be carefully considered and cut to be becoming to the 
shape of the face and neck of the wearer. A round line, close to the 
neck, is generally unbecoming. All kimonos, when worn, have a 
tendency to drop away at the back of the neck and at the shoulder. 
In cutting, the line should be high at these two points and then 
shaped to a point or square or curve as desired at the centre front. 
If the waist draws at the neck it may be necessary to slash it 
slightly to allow it to settle to the figure better and prevent a slight

drawing toward the shoulder. 
  The kimono should not be overfitted; its success lies in its free- 
dom of line and in the ease of its fit. 
  Before it is taken off it should be carefully inspected as a whole and

all the necessary changes indicated by pins, tailor's chalk, or pencil. 
  (8) Altering the Pattern.-After removing the waist all required 
changes should be marked, on the side just fitted, with the tracing- 
wheel or with colored cotton. Care should be taken to keep the 
original lines sufficiently distinct to have them serve as guides in 
marking the unfitted half of the waist. The seams should then be 
opened and the two sides of the waist placed together, pinned, and 
the corresponding sides marked.