Textile Economics 
 
 
quires three harnesses. For a filling-face fabric in the first 
shed warp threads 1, 4, 7, io are lifted; the filling passes 
under one (i), over two (2 and 3), under one (4), and so on. 
In the second shed 2, 5, 8, ii are lifted, and in the third 
3, 6, 9, 12, giving a progression of one in the lifting of the 
warp in each row. For a warp-face fabric the filling passes 
under two (I and 2), over one (3), under two (4 and 5), 
over one (6), and so on. 
  All of the twill weaves make exceedingly attractive sur- 
faces, and for this reason they are used in many materials 
like the worsteds, which do not have their weaves concealed 
by any finishing process. They also give firmness and 
bulk to material, as many threads can be used and packed 
firmly. Because of this the twill is used for materials like 
broadcloth which, in the finishing, have fibre ends brought 
to the surface to form a nap. In many materials twills 
form the only decoration; in others they are merely the 
background for elaborate figures. 
   (c) Satin Weave.-The satin weave like the twill has 
a progression in each pick in the lifting of the warp, 
but it is a progression of two or more rather than one 
as in the twill. It might be called a broken or irregular 
twill. The terms satin and sateen are both used for this 
weave: satin to indicate a surface formed by the warp, as in 
satins, in Venetian cloth, in prunella, and in galatea, which 
have the floating threads running lengthwise of the mate- 
rial; sateen, a surface formed by the filling, as in sateen, 
which has the floating threads running across the ma- 
terial. 
  The satin weave gives a smooth, lustrous fabric, since the 
surface--because of the kind of weave used-appears un- 
broken and consequently reflects the light to the best ad- 
vantage. As has been said, the surface may be formed by 
warp or filling threads. In either case, whether warp or 
filling, these surface threads are longer than in any other 
weave, as they are carried under one intersecting thread and 
over several, and they are so closely packed that the few 
intersecting or cross threads over them scarcely show. 
This weave is found in cotton materials-sateen, galatea; 
 
 
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