(a) Centre-Back Openings.-If the necessary openings in 
a waist are placed at the centre back there is less chance 
for variety in planning. They are usually finished with 
plain hems of equal or nearly equal width. These hems are 
seldom wider than 3/4" or i", and are made in the regula- 
tion way by first turning in the raw edge about Y4" and 
then making a second turning the width desired. 
  (b) Centre or Side Front Openings. 
  (i) Plain Hems.-If plain hems are used at the centre 
or side front, the hem on the right side is often somewhat 
wider than that of the left but not necessarily so. It should 
always be in good proportion to any other decoration on 
the waist. Extremes in width should be avoided whatever 
the general decoration. These hems are made in the usual 
way. 
  (ii) Box Plait and Hem.-A centre-front opening which 
is frequently used is that which has a box plait and hem. 
This is especially true of all styles of tailored waists, which 
are seldom finished in any other manner. The width of 
the box plait may vary to suit the taste of the wearer or to 
correspond to any other decoration used on the waist. It 
is generally not less than i" in width and not more than 2". 
  (a) Making the Box Plait.-In commercial patterns 
there is frequently a separate piece for the box plait. The 
work is much more quickly done, however, if the plait is 
cut in one piece with the waist. It can then be planned 
and entirely finished before the waist is cut out. There 
are many ways of making plaits. The following is an ex- 
ceedingly simple method: 
  The raw edge is turned to the wrong side the width of 
the plait and basted carefully about ý- in from its folded 
edge. The material is then turned to the wrong side again; 
this time the turning is made along the line of the raw edge 
and encloses it. This makes the second turning the same 
width as the first; that is, the width of the plait. This 
folded edge should be basted, as was the first, fi/" in; this 
distance is sufficient to enclose the raw edge if the folding 
has been done close to it, as it should be. 
  The plait is ready for stitching. The first row may be 
 
 
Waists 
 
 
317