190 
 
 
Dressmaking 
 
 
                  III. FOUNDATION SKIRT 
                  I. Drafting the Pattern 
                    REGULATION MEASURES 
    (I) Waist ........               ............... 26" 
    (2) Hip (first measure) ........................ 38" 
          (6" down.) 
             Depth of dart, 6". 
    (3) Hip (second measure) .......................... 43' 
          (io" down; from 4" to 6" larger than first hip 
          measure.) 
            Depth of dart, Io". 
    (4) Length of front ............................... 40 
    (5) Length of side................................ 41' 
    (6) Length of back ............................... 41 
  Individual measures are taken as described in the preceding 
chapter. 
  The skirt draft is based on the hip measure and the width of the 
skirt at the bottom. No matter what these measures may be, the 
method of procedure is practically the same for all, but the results 
differ as the skirts are narrow or full; that is, for a narrow or straight

skirt the curve of the waist line is large and has little depth, and as 
the skirt increases in width at the bottom the curve of the waist 
becomes shorter and deeper. The two drafts shown here illustrate 
this point. The regulation measures have been used; the first 
skirt is about 6o" in width at the bottom, the second is a few inches

less than three yards. 
  In drafting a skirt which is to measure less than two yards around 
the bottom, 2" should be added to the full hip measure. This 
augmented measure is then used in the construction and testing of 
the draft. The 2" is removed later in the fitting by the use of 
darts or gores. 
  This change in the hip measure is not required for full skirts, as 
their width at the bottom gives sufficient size at the hip. 
  For making the draft, a piece of paper the length of the skirt plus 
io' is needed. In the upper left-hand corner of it two lines at 
right angles should be drawn. The work then proceeds as follows: 
  (i) To Determine the Rectangle Which Forms the Foundation for the 
Draft: 
          AB Y 5 the first hip measure (taken 6" down) marked 
                   on the horizontal line.