Finishings and Embroidery 
 
 
of the basting, but to within ýrV" of each end, and from 
each end of this cut diagonal cuts or slashes are made to 
the stitched lines. This leaves a tiny projection at each 
end of the buttonhole, which is turned to the wrong side 
with the bias binding and prevents a raw edge at the end 
of the buttonhole. In drawing this binding to the wrong 
side the raw edges of the seam allowance are not allowed 
to extend to be enclosed by the binding, as usual, but are 
turned back along the line of stitching. The folded edges 
of the binding project, however, and fill the space. If 
the ends of the buttonhole require a little finish to make 
them strong, a few stitches on the wrong side may be taken 
to hold in place the small, turned-in piece of material. 
   (c) Finishing Bound and Tailor Buttonholes.-All these 
buttonholes may be finished on the wrong side in two ways, 
according to the material used. (i) The raw edges of the 
binding material may be turned in and run or hemmed 
to the reinforcement or (ii) a facing may be applied the 
entire length of the garment. If the facing is used a slit 
is made in it at each buttonhole and its raw edges are 
turned in and hemmed. 
  (5) Eyelets.-The making of eyelets is a problem in sew- 
ing and need not be discussed here. Eyelets are not in 
constant use in dressmaking. 
  4. Decorative Ways of Securing Fulness.-The usual 
way of securing fulness is by the use of a row of gathering 
stitches. For decoration there are various other means. 
These include the use of: 
  (i) Plain Shirring.-Several rows of running stitches 
are made in which the stitches may be even or uneven. 
In general the rows are parallel, but need not be, as their 
spacing is merely a matter of taste. 
  (2) Tucked or Corded Shirring.-A small tuck may be 
made at each row of gathering or a cord may be enclosed 
as in making cording. The cord is used to draw up the 
material and to regulate the fulness. As many rows of 
the tucks or of the cordings may be made as desired. 
  (3) Lengthwise Tucks or Plaits.-These need no expla- 
nation. 
 
 
445