I 
 
 
                         Skirts                     405 
which is slightly higher at the back than at the front is 
more becoming than one which has the same height its 
entire length. The height and direction of the line at 
the top of the skirt sh~ould be chosen for its becomingness 
rather than to meet the demands of fashion. 
  When the sewing line of any skirt is determined it is 
carefully marked by a basting. A seam allowance of Y4" 
or more is measured above this and the top of the skirt is 
cut in a good straight line. The exact width of the allow- 
ance depends on the kind of skirt and on the style of its 
finish. The centre front, centre back, and sides of the top 
of the skirt are marked. Care must be taken to have the 
two sides of the skirt exactly equal in size and even in 
height, unless a difference is demanded by .some peculiar- 
ity in the figure of the wearer. 
  Belts are of two general kinds those made of the ma- 
terial of the skirt and seldom used except for foundation 
skirts; those made of stiff belting and used for prac- 
tically all separate skirts and for those which are to be 
attached to waists. Both kinds of belts need some prep- 
aration before they are attached to the skirt. 
  (i) Finishing the Waist Line of Foundation Skirts or 
Linings.-Linings may be finished at the waist in two 
ways-by using a standing belt or a bias facing. 
  (a) Standing Belt.-Belts made of the material of the 
skirt are in general use only for foundation skirts or 
linings. Such skirts are usually made of silk, satin, per- 
caline, and lawn. 
  (i) Making the Belt.-The belt is cut with its length on 
the length of the material. In width it should be twice 
the finished width plus Y2/" for seam allowances and in 
length the waist size plus about 3". This gives sufficient 
length for the placket extension, which usually measures 
from 34" to i", and a Y2" turning at each end to provide 
firmness for the fasteners. Such a belt should not be 
over 34" in width when finished and may be as narrow as 
2". It is prepared and attached to the skirt in two dif- 
ferent ways. For both it should be folded along its length- 
wise centre and basted close to the fold to prevent its