Co8tume 
 
 
  Materials were of the same kinds as before, but were 
generally much heavier in quality and more decorative. 
About 1675 some transparent materials became popular. 
Muslin or lawn, with bunches of many-colored flowers 
painted or printed on them, were worn over underdresses 
of bright-tinted moir6 satin; or the overdress was plain 
and the underdress might be of brocade with large flowers 
in gold and silver on a colored background; or of gold or 
azure brocade of lacelike tis- 
 
 
sue. Lace was used in every 
way, on every part of the cos- 
tume, from bodice to shoes. 
It was even mixed with rib- 
bon streamers in the hair. It 
formed ladders of large bows 
and floated in every direction. 
Many small, round muffs of 
fur were carried. 
  The rather simple fashion 
of arranging the hair which 
Anne of Austria had intro- 
duced lasted, with slight vari- 
ations, until about 168o. Then 
 
 
a imiarked chaige Was maue.   Costume of late 17th century. Show- 
Mlle. de Fontanges, at that        ing Fontanges head-dress 
time the favorite of Louis 
XIV, is said to have lost her hat at some festivity and 
to have used her ribbon garter to fasten her hair. The 
garter was adorned with a rosette, which proved to be 
exceedingly becoming to Mlle. de Fontanges. The king 
expressed approval, and immediately the coiffure A la 
Fontanges became the fashion, and reigned without a 
rival until i7io, at which time if had become a towering 
edifice of lace and ribbon extremely ugly and ridiculous. 
At the last of the century Louis XIV fell under the re- 
straining influence of his last favorite, Mine. de MainX 
tenon, who has been called an "eminent refrigerator and 
paragon of virtue." While she did not set any special 
fashion, costume was in general somewhat affected by her