TexHile Manufacture 
 
 
terials. The steaming and boiling methods which give 
lustre are accomplished by the use of steam or hot water 
and rollers. For either method the material is stretched 
tightly over the rollers. If it is to be steamed the rollers 
have perforations through which the steam is blown. If 
it is to be boiled the material passes through boiling water 
as it is wo, nd from one roll to another, -or it stands while 
rolled for several hours in the boiling water. To all these 
finishes much brushing and pressing may be added. These 
give additional lustre and more careful finish. 
   (h) Tentering. In drying, the material must be made to 
conform to a certain width and must also be carefully 
stretched smooth and straight. This is done by tentering. 
For instance, broadcloth has a regulation width of fifty-four 
inches; it may come from the milling process uneven in 
width. To remedy this it is, while still wet, stretched into 
shape on a frame. It is attached to this frame by hooks 
which catch in the selvage. The selvages of many materials 
,show evidence of this process in the small holes made by 
the hooks. 
   (i) Inspecting.-All materials are very carefully inspected 
 after the finishing processes. 
   5. Usual Finishing Processes for Worsted.-The follow- 
 ing processes may be required in the finishing of a worsted 
 fabric: inspecting; burling; mending; scouring; fulling (for 
 unfinished worsteds); washing to remove the soap; crabbing 
 (the cloth is wound on a roll and placed in the crabbing- 
 machine; it is passed through rollers, through boiling wa- 
 ter, and is wound again; by this process the cloth is set); 
 dyeing (if it is to be piece-dyed); crabbing again; tenter- 
 ing; steam-brushing (the material is wound on a perforated 
 cylinder and steam is blown through both cylinder and 
 material); specking (cutting off any specks); shearing on 
 face and back; pressing by rollers; dewing; water blown on 
 it (somewhat like sprinkling of laundry); drying; inspecting. 
   6. Usual Finishing Processes for Woolen.-The follow- 
 ing processes may be required in the finishing of a woolen 
 fabric ("face goods"): inspecting; burling; mending; full- 
 ing in grease; washing; rolling and stretching through 
 
 
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