Dressmaking 
 
 
in the waist at the front or back it is arranged in the de- 
sired tucks, plaits, or gathers. The two yoke pieces are 
carefully basted wrong sides together before joining to the 
waist in order to have the yoke perfectly flat when finished. 
This basting is done down the centre-back line and around 
the entire yoke i" in, as it must not be close enough to the 
front and back edges of the yoke to interfere with the work 
of joining. After the yoke and waist are prepared they 
may be joined in two ways, giving the same results. 
   (i) The piece serving for the lining of the yoke is basted 
to the waist along the tracings with the seams to the right 
side. These seams are creased to the lining and basted 
flat. The yoke itself with its turned-in seam allowances 
is then basted to the waist with its edges following and 
covering the seams by which the lining is joined. 
  (ii) The seam allowance on the two pieces is turned in 
to correspond and the waist slipped in between the edges, 
as the neck of the waist is slipped into the collar-band, and 
basted. This is a good method if the yoke has a very 
curved or pointed line across the back or front and it is 
difficult to make a good seam otherwise. 
  A yoke is sometimes applied to the back of a waist by 
much the same method, if the back is cut the regulation 
size, and serves as a lining. This can be done only when 
the back has .no fulness from armseye to armseye. The 
yoke should be carefully basted to the back to keep it flat, 
while its lower edge is turned in and basted. 
  For many fancy waists, where a lining is desired for 
protection or to keep the yoke in shape, both yoke and 
lining are joined to the waist in a seam on the wrong side 
and may be finished as desired. 
  (3) Basting the Sleeve.-The sleeve should be placed flat 
on the table and the seam tracings should be brought to- 
gether and pinned, beginning at the wrist. If the sleeve 
does not lie flat after the tracings are matched, a readjust- 
ment is necessary before any basting is done. It is better 
to have the sleeve smooth without twisting than to have 
the tracings match. 
  If there is any fulness whatever the sleeve should have 
 
 
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