496 
 
 
Index 
 
 
   skirts with five, 380. 
   skirts with six, 380. 
   skirts with seven, 380. 
   straight skirts with four, 379, 380. 
   straight skirts with two, 379. 
Gores- 
   five-gore division of skirt, 198. 
   four-gore division of skirt, 196-198. 
   seven-gore division of skirt, 2oo. 
   six-gore division of skirt, 198. 
   two-gore division of skirt, 200. 
   marking, 203, 204. 
   placing on material, 203, 38o-382. 
   testing, 200-202. 
   trueing lines of, 202. 
 Gores, plain- 
   basting for fitting, 204, 384, 385. 
 Gores with tucks or plaits- 
   basting for fitting, 385. 
 Grain of material, 348. 
   importance in dressmaking, 161; in 
       skirt cutting, 375. 
   importance in designing, 252, 296. 
   in arranging folds in designing, 296, 
   297. 
,Greek costume, 5-8; return to, 37. 
Guimpes-- 
   attaching collar to, 351, 352. 
   cutting collar, 348. 
   draping foundation, 347, 348. 
   fastenings, 352. 
   finishing, 351, 352. 
   finishing armseye, 352. 
   fitting, 352. 
   general method of making, 347. 
   making collar, 349-351. 
   making sleeve, 352. 
   purpose, 346, 347. 
   seams, 351. 
   stretching yoke, 348, 349. 
 
 Hair. i See Head-dress. 
 Hand carding, 49, 50. 
 Hand-looms- 
   preparation of warp and threading, 
       73-75- 
   process of operating, 70, 71. 
 Hand weaving, 67, 68. 
   early appearance of hand-loom, 68- 
       71. 
   inventions in- 
     drop-box, 71. 
     fly-shuttle, 72. 
Hanging material after shrinking, i61. 
Harness, 69. 
Harness-loom, 71, 72. 
   attachments-- 
     Dobby, 73. 
     Head-motion, 73. 
     lappet, 73. 
     Swivel, 73. 
 
 
Head-dress in historic costume, 5, 8, ro, 
     14, 06, 17, i8, 2I, 23, 25, 27, 28, 30, 
     33, 34, 38, 39, 43, 44, 45. 
'Head-motion, 73. 
Heddle, 68. 
Hemp, x16. 
Hems- 
  as finishes for edges, 430, 43'. 
  finish in shirt-waist, 317, 358. 
  finished with cording, 438. 
  finished with embroidery, 430, 43!. 
  finished with fagoting, 430, 43E. 
  finished with hemstitching, 430. 
  for skirts, 415-418. 
     fancy, 418; plain, 416-41& 
  turning in skirts, 386. 
Hemstitched seam 
  use in shirt-waists, 335. 
  use in skirts, 394. 
Hemstitching by hand- 
  use in finishing hems, 430. 
Hemstitching by machine, 335, 394, 419, 
    438. 
Hennin, 17, i8. 
Himation, 6, 7. 
Historic costume- 
  use in designing, 251, 252. 
Historic development of costume, x-48. 
Hooks and eyes- 
  use for fastenings, 439. 
Hooks and loops-- 
  use for fastenings, 439. 
Hooks and peets- 
  use for fastenings, 439- 
Hoop, 28, 29, 32, 46, 47. 
Houppdande, 17. 
Illustrative material for designing-- 
  where found, 252, 252. 
Imagination, stimulation, 252. 
Individual-- 
  as important factor in choice of cos- 
       tume, 254. 
Inventions in hand weaving- 
  drop-box, 71. 
  fly-shuttle, 7'. 
Inverted plaits- 
  basting in skirts, 385, 386. 
  designing on skirt pattern, 274-277. 
    at centre-back seam, 275. 
    between any other two gores, 275- 
         277. 
Ionic chiton, 6. 
Iron- 
  use in pressing after shrinking, i61; 
       in pressing, 062, 263; in sponging, 
       x62. 
 
Jack-spool, 53, 
jacquard loom, 72. 
ersey wheel, SS. S6.