THE CANADIAN HORTICULTURIST AND BEEKEEPER

through it, and WE didn't like them
either.  A   seven-eighth  outer shell,
three inches of sawdust, then another
seven-eighth wall, all of which are good
conductors of heat or cold, besides
making a heavy, cumbersome and other-
wise undesirable hive to handle. After
a spell of severe cold, a thermometer
placed near the inner wall of this hive as
high up as the cluster, would register
nearly as low as the temperature outside.
With a thin walled, properly insulated
hive, such as above described, a ther-
mometer placed two inches above the
floor would register but slightly higher
than that outside the hive. Place the
thermometer at the side of hive and as
high as the cluster, and it will register
during a zero freeze, from 40 to 47
degrees, if hive is contracted to suit size
of colony. The warmth generated by
the colony will not radiate through the
sides of the hive.
For the benefit of those who prefer
metal rests and also have the bee space
above the top bars of the brood chamber
instead of at the bottom of the super,
Fig. 3 is a good illustration of this and
will be helpful to anyone who may be
contemplating the construction of a hive
of this nature.
In reducing size of Mr. Dunn's draw-
ing (Fig. 3) the end and side bars of
bottom board should be shown wide
enough to reach the inner wall as in
Fig. 1. So placed they take the full
thrust of the weight of honey in the
supers.
In the February issue of THE BEE-
KEEPER, Mr. Deadman in his article on
his hives says : " As I understand Mr.
Dunn, the neponset paper is placed
next the cork-packed space on the out-
side wall and on the side next to the
frames on the outside wall, and on the
side next to the frames on the inside wall.
If this is correct why not put the paper
on the side next the packing on the
inner wall, the same as he does on the
outer wall ?" By consulting the draw-
ings accompanying this article Mr.
Deadman will see that I place the
insulating paper on the inner shell
where he recommends it should be-
next the cork packing. In preparing
the glue used in securing the paper to
the boards, to every 112 pints of glue
add one teaspoonful of boiled linseed oil.
Moisture will not affect glue so prepared.
In closing permit me to repeat, I do
not make hives for sale ; I know of no
dealer who makes such a hive as I have
described. My object in submitting
working plans is to help the beekeeper
to make them himself. Here they are
for everyone. A multitude of other
questions, not relating to hive making, I
shall endeavor to answer in a later
article.

Fig. 3
Some Experiences With the Long Idea Hive*
By G. A. Deadman, Brussels
ARTICLE TWO.

SOMETIMES we can accomplish as
much, and more, by showing a
child the pitfalls to avoid rather
than the narrow way he should tread,
and so I am going to write of a hive I
have no further use for, viz., The Long
Idea Hive. As this hive may be new to
some of you, I may describe it in brief as
a one-storey hive varying in the number
of frames it contains according to idea of
the user. It is the opposite of that most
generally in use, which is adapted for
tiering up, hive upon hive, or super upon
super. It appeals to the beginner, inas-
much as at no time are there heavy
supers of honey to remove, to examine
the brood or find the queen, which by
him is considered so necessary to be done
frequently.
In a former article I said that the
hive or frame adopted by the beginner
will depend largely on circumstances,
although I suppose more so forty years
ago than now.
It was not from any love for bees or
any desire to know how intelligent they
were, that made me the possessor when
a boy of a colony of bees in a box hive.
Nor was it from lack of fear, because
I' would rather have faced a lion in
those days, than an angry bee bent on
stinging somebody. The fact of having
no remembrance of what became of that
hive of bees after I left home would indi-
cate that my temperature was normal ,
there was no "bee fever" such as I con-
tracted later on. It was not until I
*This article is the second in the series that Mr. Dead-
man has wrtten for The Beekeeper entitled, "What Hive
and Frame Shall I Use? The Beginner's Problem."

had started in business for myself and
was building a house that my attention
was again drawn to them. We thought
then, as we do now, that when building a
house it is very mportant to have a
good cellar, one under every part of the
building, and it so happened that the
carpenter who had the work of finishing,
remarked one day regarding the cellar,
" What a fine place this would be to
winter bees in." More than this, he
was receiving through the mails little
cages of bees, each containing a queen.
I thought if that cellar was such a good
place to winter bees I would get a hive
and put them there. And so I got him
to make me a hive in which to put a
swarm of bees. It was a one-storey
hive holding twelve frames and a division
board, and the surplus honey was to be.
taken from the three back frames
especially, and as many of the others
that contained enough honey to make it
worth while extracting. It might be
called the long idea hive on a small
scale. With such a hive, and such a
method, it was no uncommon sight to
see larve in different stages floating on
the honey in the extractor, something
never  to be tolerated.    This was
the Jones' hive and frame. Worse luck
it was, too. D. A. Jones had a name in
those days, and so I did not attempt to
improve on the frame, but only in ex-
tending the principle by making a
hive to accommodate more frames.
And so I made a hive twenty-
eight  inches  long  inside,  having
the entrance at the side, so I could

68

March, 191!).

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