CHAP. XI.

I left Stappen on the 26th, accompanied by Mr. Hialltalin, and proceeded round the Yökul, across some of the highest lavas to be met with on the island. The stage might be about twenty‐four miles, yet we had scarcely any thing but lava the whole day. At a short distance from Stappen we encountered two streams, the one of which has run above the other, and consists of a very compact lava, which assumes in some places a prismatic form, and displays on its surface a number of beautiful white specks, resembling the finest embroidery. On striking it p. 46 with a hammer, it gives a sound like metal. To our left we had the Lon‐drângar, two curious‐looking natural obelisks, of a prodigious height, that of the highest being not less than 240 feet. They are of no great diameter, and stand almost close together. Numerous red conical hills line the coast around the Yökul. Several of them are of considerable magnitude, and must owe their origin to the breaking forth of fire from the subterraneous caverns, which, with great probability, are supposed to stretch from under the sea to the centre of the Yökul. What tends strongly to confirm this hypothesis, is the fact, that notwithstanding the immense quantity of snow that must annually be melted by the heat of the sun, no river of any size is found to flow from the Yökul.

The peninsula here terminates in a point called Öndverdtness, on both sides of which are several fishing‐places, which are very conveniently situated, as the sea abounds with great plenty of fish at this place.1

At seven in the evening we arrived at the farm of Ingialldshvol, which is occupied by Mr. Scheving, the administrator of the royal domains in this part of the island. We did not find him at home, but his wife and two daughters received us in the most courteous manner, and instantly p. 47 served up a dram of Jamaica rum and coffee. It was interesting to observe the degree of taste with which the houses, originally of Icelandic construction, had been improved; and the manners of the family, though strictly national, seemed not a little raised above the common standard. The church at this place is next, in point of size, to the edifices at Holum and Reykiavik. It is constructed of wood, but begins to fall into decay for want of a new coating of tar. The tun is also very extensive, and entirely free from knolls, a thing rather uncommon in Iceland. Before retiring to rest, I had a visit from the clergyman, who informed me, that in the two parishes forming his charge are nearly 1000 souls, a disproportion which arises from the number of fishing hamlets, whose inhabitants depend entirely on the produce of the sea. They are in general very poor; and, from every account, it would appear, that, in point of moral character, they are far behind those who confine their attention to the management of their flocks. Being often prevented from going to sea by the prevalence of stormy weather, they contract a habit of idleness, in the train of which, drunkenness, impurity, and other vices, but too commonly follow. These evils have of late increased to such a degree in the Syssel of Snæfellsness, that those in power found themselves obliged to interfere, and call the offenders to account; but connivance, partiality, and want of cordial and persevering go‐operation, p. 48 have rendered the measures abortive that were designed to effect a reformation of manners. Upwards of thirty Bibles, and a number of New Testaments had been sold at this place.

On the 27th, I again set out from Ingialldshvol in company with the two daughters of the administrator, the clergyman, and Mr. Hialltalin, who would not leave me till we reached Olafsvik. The ladies, dressed in their Sunday habit, were lifted on their ponies, and galloped away, apparently as little intimidated as the ladies in the neighbourhood of the Don. Their saddles were surrounded by a strong rim behind, over which hung an elegant coverlet, exhibiting some fine specimens of embroidery. The road was at first rather boggy, but we soon gained the sand which forms the beach, and advanced with considerable speed till we reached the base of a huge projecting mountain called Ennit, when we we were obliged to alight, and suffer our horses to find the road as well as they could, across the large stones that have been dislodged on the beach.

The pass at this place is justly considered to be one of the most dangerous in Iceland. The mountain is about 2500 feet in height, presenting the most rugged and frightful appearance imaginable in front, and seems to be extremely irregular in its formation. Its principal ingredient is a brown tuffa, alternating with different kinds of lava, sandstone, and clay. The sea having eat away a considerable part of its base, p. 49 numerous holes and caverns present themselves; and its sides being perpendicular, there is no possibility of passing it except at low water, and even then the sea only recedes to a short distance; so that though the traveller keeps close to the water, he still runs great risk of being crushed to atoms by the stones falling from the mountain. Numbers have actually lost their lives here; and many of the natives prefer a long circuitous route along the south side of the peninsula to this short but difficult pass. It was not without impressions of terror that I ventured below the beetling cliffs, many of which appeared to be almost entirely disengaged from the mountain; and my anxiety was greatly increased on witnessing the stones that had tumbled down during the ebb. However, as the ladies proceeded without intimidation, it would have argued a great want of fortitude not to have followed.

About noon we reached Olafsvik, a factory belonging to Mr. Clausen, and were hospitably entertained by his factor. It consists of two very respectable dwelling‐houses, several warehouses, and a number of small Icelandic hamlets that lie at different distances behind the place. I here fell in with the Dean of the Syssel, the very Reverend Mr. Thorgrimson, who had proceeded this length on a visitation. It was with much regret I learned this circumstance, as I had laid my account with spending the Lord’s day at his place, and hearing him preach. p. 50 He is considered to be one of the more able preachers in the island, and is one of the few who deliver their discourses from memory:—it being almost universally the custom with the clergy to read their sermons, which deprives them of that life and energy which generally accompany the address of an unshackled speaker. My regret was augmented the longer I was in his company; for I found him to be a truly serious man, sedate and deliberate in his turn of mind, of considerable learning, and possessing sound ideas on the grand fundamental articles of the Christian faith. What he said was always well weighed, and expressed in the most appropriate words. He soon took an opportunity of expressing his approbation of the exertions now making for the dissemination of the Holy Scriptures, and his gratitude for what had been done for the inhabitants of his Deanery in particular. It was entirely out of his power to return with me, as he had an appointment for the following day; but he had the kindness to accompany me about four miles along the coast to the fishing village of Völlum, where we parted, after mutually wishing each other the divine blessing and protection.

I now rode on with the clergyman of Ingialldshool to a rich farm called Mâfahlid, the proprietor of which shewed every disposition to serve me, and ordered one of his sons to proceed with me as far as Grundarfiord, where I intended stopping all night. From the fine road along p. 51 the beach which I travelled with ease and pleasure, I had soon to mount the horrid pass of Bulandshöfdi, which, in point of difficulty and danger may almost vie with that of Ennit. The mountain is nearly 2000 feet high: its front presents several horizontal strata of tuffa and vertical pillars of basaltic rock to the depth of about 200 feet, when a bed of debris commences, and falls with a rapid descent to the brink of the lofty precipices which gird the sea at the base of the mountain.

The only road which it is possible to pass lies up across this debris, and rises at the highest to nearly 1000 feet above the level of the sea, which dashes with tremendous roar almost directly below the traveller. The road itself we found in some places invisible; recent depositions of gravel from the impending rocks having obliterated it, and every step the horses took threatened with us inevitable destruction, as they had no secure footing, and there was no manner of barrier to prevent us from rolling into the abyss. Our principal difficulty, however, was occasioned by a deep indentation cut by the mountain torrent, which was nearly full of frozen snow, in crossing which, one of the baggage‐horses missed a foot, and sliding down upon the ice, I must have given him up for lost, had he not gained a heap of debris, which held him with difficulty till he was caught by the servant, and drawn up again into the path. On proceeding along this dangerous route, most of the Icelanders walk behind their horses, holding them by the p. 52 tails, and taking care not to look down into the sea.

Having gained the summit of the pass, we again began to descend on the other side, admiring the grandeur of the mountain scenery which here presented itself to our view. Directly before us lay the Coffin and Sugar‐loaf, so called from their striking resemblance to these objects, and to our right projected a number of bold and precipitous mountains, whose curiously diversified forms seemed to mock the works of art, and whose sides wore evident marks of primitive formation; for how much soever they were divided, the sites of the horizontal beds, of which they are composed, exactly corresponded to each other.

At nine o’clock in the evening I arrived at Grundarfiord,2 which lies at the termination of a small bay of the same name, and is built on a high bank of gravel that has been thrown up by the sea. It is inhabited by Mr. Helagson, the factor of Mr. Clausen, a native Icelander, who, in spite of his connections with foreigners, retains both in his person and family the genuine simplicity of the native character, and possesses in no ordinary degree that hospitable disposition by which his countrymen are so generally distinguished. He had already received two travellers, p. 53 yet he made me as welcome as if I had been the only person that had visited the place in the course of half a century.

Owing to the stony nature of the ground, I had some difficulty in getting my tent pitched; and in the course of the night it was nearly blown down, by sudden and violent squalls from the adjacent mountains. About five in the morning, I was alarmed by a noise louder than thunder, which seemed to be close to the tent; and on drawing aside the curtain, I found that a disruption had taken place in the face of a mountain at no great distance. The air was nearly darkened with the quantity of dust that was borne upwards by the wind, and immense masses of rock were hurled down, tearing the ground as they rolled along, and, giving a fresh impulse to the rocks and gravel that had already fallen, the whole rushed down with amazing velocity into the plain.

The 28th being the Lord’s day, I rode with Mr. Helagson to the church of Setberg, which lies on the east side of the bay, and is the residence of the Dean. I was here received by one of his daughters, who instantly presented me with coffee, and the chaplain, a son of the aged minister of Thingvalla, bade me welcome to the place. Before the commencement of public worship some time was taken up with a funeral. It is the custom in Iceland to remove the corpse as soon as possible to church, where it is suffered to remain till the day of interment. When a p. 54 person happens to die in the vicinity of the church, he is wrapped in wadmel, and placed on a bench beside the altar, till a coffin can be got ready:—a custom of very ancient date, as traces of it are to be met with in the Eyrbyggia Saga, about the time Christianity was introduced into the island.3 It would also appear from the same Saga, that it was customary in those days to place the coffin on a sledge drawn by oxen; but as this mode of conveyance is entirely out of use at the present day, the Icelanders now carry it on horseback, as the Jews did the body of Amaziah. “And they brought him on horses: and he was buried at Jerusalem with his fathers in the city of David.” 2 Kings xiv. 20. In the winter season, interments are attended with considerable difficulty; as it takes three or four people a whole day to dig a grave, owing to the depth of the frost. In many parts of the island, where the people are at a distance from any church, they preserve the corpse the whole winter in a cellar, and inter it the following spring.

The funeral service begins with a psalm, which is sung while the procession advances towards the grave; the men having their heads uncovered, and the females covering their faces almost entirely with their handkerchiefs. After the coffin has been deposited in the grave, the priest throws three shovels full of earth upon it, repeating p. 55 the words: “From dust thou art taken; to dust thou shalt return; and from the dust shalt thou rise again at the last day.” While the grave is filling, the company sing a psalm or two suited to the occasion. One of the servants belonging to the farm whence the corpse had been brought, entered the grave after a small portion of earth had been thrown in, and continued to tramp it down with his feet:—an action that naturally produced a very abhorrent feeling in my mind, and added to the common but perhaps unjust prejudice that is entertained against those whose lot it is to perform the last offices of humanity. The females knelt, in the mean time, on the surrounding graves; and when all was finished, the father of the deceased threw himself prostrate on the grave, and continued in that posture for the space of eight or ten minutes; but whether his prayer regarded the soul of the departed, or the important uses to be made of this solemn event by the living, was more than I could determine.

The discourse of the chaplain, which turned on a future state of retribution, was plain and edifying; and the sacramental table was crowded with communicants, who appeared to be deeply affected by the solemn exercise in which they were engaged.

On my return from church, it began to blow with such violence that I was obliged to take down my tent, and lodge with Mr. Helgason. p. 56 In the evening I received a visit from the Sysselman, who gave me an account of the steps that had been taken for facilitating the distribution of the Scriptures, and he assured me that nothing should be left undone that might carry the views of the Society into effect.

Monday, the 29th, I bade farewell to my kind entertainers at Grundarfiord, and prosecuted my journey towards the east, under the guidance of the Sysselman. On passing Setberg we were joined by the chaplain, and rode on to Hallbiarnareyri, the former dwelling of the Sysselman, where we were treated with coffee by the present occupant of the farm. While my two companions were shoeing one of their horses, a task that all the Icelanders are capable of performing, and which none of them thinks beneath his dignity, I copied and deciphered two Runic epitaphs that were lying at the door. They are inscribed on stones of light brown basalt, which are supposed to have been taken from a mountain at a short distance to the eastward, as it abounds with the same kind of basaltic pillars. The largest is hexagonal, and measures exactly two Danish ells in length, by seven inches at the greatest diameter. It is broken near the middle, which has caused a rasure in the inscription, but the remainder of the name leads to the discovery of the defective letters: p. 57

ᛯᛄᚱ ᛯᚢᛁᛚᛄᚱ ᛐᚴᛄᚱᛄᚢᚱ ᚴᚢᚿᚿᛆᚱᛑᛄᛆᛏᛏᛁᚱ
ᚭᚴ ᛒᛁᛑᛁᛑ ᚠᛁᚱᛁᚱ ᛘᛄᚱ

Her hviler Fridgerdur Gunnarsdottir
og bidid firir mer.

“Here rests Fridgerdur Gunnar’s daughter; and pray for me.”

The other basalt is heptagonal, six inches in diameter, and an ell and a half in length. The inscription is shorter, and the name appears to be foreign:

ᛯᛄᚱ ᛯᚢᛁᛚᛄᚱ ᛘᛆᚱᚠᚱᛄᛐᛆ ᚠᛄᛁᚱᛘ

Her hviler Marfreda Feirm.

“Here rests Marfreda Feirm.”

The former of these inscriptions sufficiently indicates that it was made before the Reformation, about which time a church that formerly stood here was razed; and the church‐yard having disappeared, the stones remained concealed till last summer, when they were discovered by the peasant, as he was taking up part of the burying‐ground in order to enlarge his ganden.

It still remains to be decided by antiquaries, why so few Runic inscriptions are found in Iceland, whereas they are widely spread over Scandinavia, from which that Island received its inhabitants. The frequent mention of runes in p. 58 the more ancient or poetic Edda, shews that they were familiarly known in that island, at least before the eleventh century. They also occur in several of the Sagas, though not in connection with the interment of the dead; yet not above eight or ten epitaphs have hitherto been discovered, and of these the greater number are of recent date.

The two gentlemen accompanied me to the termination of the Kolgrafarfiord, where we overtook the man that had the care of my baggage‐horses, and I proceeded with him up a short, but very steep mountain‐road, called Tröllahâls, or the Giant’s Neck, descending from which we entered a pretty extensive valley, ornamented with a few cottages, and divided towards the east by the Hraunfiord, which derives its name from the circumstance of its having been almost entirely crossed by a stream of lava that has only left a small strait on the north side, through which the sea ebbs and flows. The blackness of the lava was finely contrasted by the prodigious number of swans that were swimming in the bay. The lava itself wears a very rugged and melancholy appearance, and the path across it is extremely rough and annoying to travellers. About the middle of the tract my horse threw me, and my feet getting entangled in the stirrups, I every moment expected he would have trampled upon me, but in the good providence of God I escaped unhurt.

We next entered a tract of red volcanic cinders, and skirted the base of a large conical hill of the same colour. Several more cones were visible to the right, the direction in which the stream of lava has descended from the original crater, which I could plainly descry among the mountains. Passing a solitary farm near the margin of the lava, we encountered the famous arm called the Berserkia lava, from the path and fence that were laid across it by two Swedes of gigantic prowess, towards the close of the tenth century.4 When we had gained the highest p. 60 part of the lava, I obtained a view of the fences running completely across it; and in some places apparently of considerable height. The path itself is the best I have seen through any lava in p. 61 Iceland. Its formation has certainly been accompanied with immense labour; and little short of what we fancy the strength of a giant would be required to move many of the masses of lava p. 62 that have been raised to either side. About the middle of the tract we descended into a deep glen, where we found the Berserkia‐dis, or the cairn beneath which the Berserkir lie interred. p. 63 It is situated on the north side of the road, and may be about twenty feet in length, six in breadth, and four in height. It consists of larger stones towards the base; but the superior regions are made up of small stones that have been thrown upon it, from time to time, by those that have passed this way. This custom, which obtains at this day in the north of Scotland, in Sweden, and many other countries, is found to have prevailed in the time of Herodotus; and some learned men are of opinion, that an allusion is made to it by Job, when speaking of the גדיש Gadish, or tumulus, of the wicked. “And every man p. 64 shall draw out (the stone he hath taken with him on purpose, and throw it) after him, as there were innumerable before him.” Job xxi. 33.

At the termination of the lava, my guide pointed out to me the cottage of Hraun, which was inhabited by Styr, and several other places mentioned in the Saga. He had the story completely by heart, and finding that I took some degree of interest in the scenery, he proceeded to relate the different circumstances, in a strain of eloquence that perfectly astonished me; nor is it easy to say when his national enthusiasm might have been arrested, had we not arrived at the farm of Kongsbacka, where I pitched my tent under the lee of the house, and was kindly treated by the inhabitants.

Early in the morning of the 30th, I set off for the factory of Stickesholm, to reach which it was necessary for me to turn a number of small bays and creeks, which protrude between that place and the rest of the peninsula. The intervening grounds form the small peninsula of Thorsness, famous for its having been dedicated to Thor, the Scandinavian deity, and the cruel rites of a bloody superstition, which continued to be practised here until the introduction of Christianity.

It was taken possession of in the year 883, by Thorolf, surnamed Mostrarskegg, from his prodigious beard, a Norwegian magnate of distinguished liberality, who kept the temple of Thor p. 65 on the island of Mostur, to whose service he was zealously addicted. Having incurred the resentment of Haralld, King of Norway, by harbouring a nobleman who had been exiled by that prince, he resolved to emigrate to Iceland; but, previous to his departure, he deemed it advisable to consult the oracle of Thor, as to the eligibility of his proceeding to that island, or reconciling himself with the King. In order to render the Thunderer propitious, Thorolf offered an immense sacrifice, and received a response, authorising his change of habitation. He now prepared for his voyage, and took with him, not only the most of his effects, but also the temple of Thor, and the very earth on which the altar of that idol had been erected. On his arrival in the Faxafiord, he cast the posts of the throne, which had stood in the temple, and on one of which the image of Thor was sculptured, into the sea, and, following them round the promontory of Snæfellsness, he entered the opposite bay, to which, from its extreme breadth, he gave the name of Breidafiord.

The posts having drifted to the southern shores of the bay, were cast up near this place, where Thorolf landed, and proceeded immediately to take formal possession of the coast, which was done, according to a custom prevalent in those days, by walking with a burning firebrand in his hand, round the lands he intended to occupy, and marking their boundaries by setting fire to p. 66 the grass.5 He then built a large house near the shores of Hofsvog, or the Temple Bay, and raised a spacious temple (hof) to Thor, having a door on each side, and towards the inner end were erected the principal posts before mentioned, in which the regin‐naglar, or nails of the divinity, were fixed. Within these pillars was a sacred asylum, with an altar in the middle, on which was placed a solid ring of silver, two ounces in weight, to be used in the administration of oaths, and worn by the chief in all the public meetings of the people. There was also placed beside the altar, the bason for receiving the blood of the sacrifices (hlautbolli), with the instrument of sprinkling (hlauttein); and around it stood, in separate niches, the several idols worshipped by the Scandinavians. On the establishment of this temple, a decree was issued by Thorolf, that every one should pay a certain tribute to the temple, to enable him to procure the sacrifices, and maintain the necessary rites of worship.6 p. 67 The site of the temple is still shewn, close to the hamlet Hofstad, on the west side of the peninsula.

About noon I arrived at the western base of p. 68 Helgafell,7 a low mountain, consisting of trapp, or an irregular kind of basalt, perpendicular on the north and east sides, but accessible from the west and south, where it is for the most part covered with grass. To this mountain Thorolf attached such a peculiar degree of sanctity, that he not only gave it the name of the Holy Mount, by way of distinction, but enacted a law, that no person should presume to look towards it without having previously performed an ablution; nor was any animal to be killed upon it under penalty of death. He also regarded it as the hill of immortality, and entertained the belief that he should dwell there in a future life, along with all his relations who inhabited Thorsness.

Leaving the baggage‐horses to bait a little at the foot of the mountain, I rode on to the church and parsonage of Helgafell, where I was received by the chaplain, in whose house I found one of the best libraries that I recollect having seen in the hands of any private clergyman on the island. He had but lately come to this place, and was busy fitting up his furniture. The rector himself is almost superannuated, though by no means an old man. His name is Sæmund Holm, the author of the very inaccurate account of the last volcanic eruption. The present church of Helgafell owes its erection to his mechanical genius; p. 69 all the carpenter‐work having been accomplished with his own hands. On taking down the old building, he discovered in the altar‐piece a paxspialld, or thin flat stone, with an Anglo‐Saxon inscription upon it; but as no copy was taken of it, the stone was either broken to pieces or lost, so that no farther account can now be obtained of it.

Helgafell was the abode of Snorro Goda, priest of Thor, and one of the most powerful chiefs in the west of Iceland. The Eyrbyggia Saga is almost wholly taken up with a detail of his intrigues, his prosecutions, and his cruelties. One of the first churches was built here on the public adoption of the Christian religion; and about the year 1183, the monastery of Flatey was transferred to this place, and became one of the richest in Iceland, possessing no less than ninety‐six farms at the time of the Reformation, when it was secularized, and the lands added to the Danish crown, under the designation of Arnarstapaumbod.8

Stickesholm I found situated on the west side of a narrow sound, by which it is separated from a small island, presenting the same columnar appearances with Helgafell. It consists of two merchants’ houses, with the warehouses belonging to them, and the dwelling‐house of Mr. Hialltalin, the surgeon of the district. The principal p. 70 merchant is Mr. Benedictson, a native Icelander, who has distinguished himself from all the other merchants on the island by his literary pursuits, and especially by his attachment to northern antiquities, with which he possesses a very intimate acquaintance. His collection of Icelandic MSS. is considerable. He possesses several copies of the more important sagas, which he is comparing together, and writing out a fair copy of the text, accompanied with the most established readings. His zeal for the transmission of these ancient documents to posterity, has induced him to form the resolution of bequeathing the collection to his eldest son, with the stipulation, that it be bequeathed again by him in the same manner, so as to form the perpetual property of the family.

On entering his shop, I was happy to recognise a number of Bibles and New Testaments advantageously exposed for sale. A quantity of copies had been gratuitously distributed, and received with great thankfulness; and Mr. B. expected that the sale at the ensuing summer‐market would be considerable, as the greatest want of the Scriptures prevailed in the district. By Mr. and Madame Benedictson, as also by Mr. and Madame Hialltalin, I was treated in the most polite and hospitable manner. Indeed, the two families seemed to vie with one another which of them should be most unremitting in their attentions.

After having settled my business with Mr. Benedictson, I was accompanied by the surgeon to the cottage of Thingvalla, for the purpose of p. 71 surveying one of the principal places of sacrifice on the island. Thorolf had no sooner built the hof to Thor, than he instituted a provincial assembly for the administration of justice, and fixed the place of meeting on a small tongue of land which juts out from the peninsula. This spot was also held in such sanctity, that it was forbid to shed blood on it; nor were the people allowed to ease nature within its precincts, but were obliged to repair to a distant rock appointed for the purpose. In a skirmish, however, that took place after the death of Thorolf, about the holy ground, it was defiled with human blood, and pronounced unfit for being any longer the place of a court. The forum was accordingly removed to Thingvalla, where a number of important regulations were made for the preservation of public and social order.

It was some time before we could find the place. A little to the south of the cottage we fell in with an immense number of small square heights, which are evidently the ruins of the booths used by the people at the public assembly. We here instituted a strict search after the Blot‐steinn, or Stone of Sacrifice, on which human victims were immolated to Thor; but sought in vain in the immediate vicinity of the booths, none of the stones in that quarter answering to the description which had been given of it. At last we descried a large stone in the middle of a morass at some distance, which, though rough and unshapen, was determined to be the identical “Stone of Fear,” by the “horrid p. 72 circle of Brumo” in the centre of which it is situate. The stones which form this circular range appear also to be of a considerable size; but as they are now almost entirely covered by the morass, it is impossible to ascertain their depth except by digging. The circle itself is about twelve yards in diameter, and the stones are situated at short distances from each other. The Blot‐steinn is of an oblong shape, with a sharp summit, on which the backs of the victims were broken that were offered as expiatory sacrifices, in order to appease the wrath of the offended deity, and purge the community from the obnoxiousness of guilt. Within the circle, called, in Icelandic, domhringr,9 sat the judges, before whom the accused, with their advocates and witnesses, were convened, while the spectators crowded around the outside of the range in order to hear the trial. The remains of these forensic and sacrificial circles are still found in great abundance throughout Scandinavia; and it is more than probable that many of the ranges of stones discovered in different parts of Great Britain, especially Scotland, were used for similar purposes, and owe their existence to the Picts, or the intercourse which, in ancient times, was maintained between the northern nations and the coasts of our island.

On the 1st of June I again left Stickesholm, and retraced my steps to Helgafell, whence I proceeded in nearly a southerly direction to the p. 73 farm of Drâpuhlid, which lies at the base of the mountain of the same name, famous for the number of curious minerals with which it abounds. From this farm the road lay nearly due east, across a number of low barren hills, among the gravel of which I discovered abundance of chalcedony and jasper; quitting which, I descended by the end of Ulfarsfell to the shores of the Alftafiord, or Swan Frith, and passed close to the tumulus of Arnkell, the celebrated rival of Snorro Goda. In the Saga, he is exhibited as a model of civil virtues, and in every respect the reverse of the pontiff of Helgafell, to whose cruel and intriguing disposition he ultimately fell a victim. It being low water, I saved a ride of more than two miles, by crossing the bay, which was nearly covered with swans; and after skirting the base of the mountains on its eastern side for the space of an hour, I arrived about eight in the evening at the church of Narfeyri, where I had my tent pitched just in time to escape a heavy rain, which continued without intermission the whole of the night.

I had scarcely got dressed the following morning, when the farmer made his appearance at the tent‐door, and presented me with some excellent eider‐duck eggs, my cheerful acceptance of which appeared to give him great satisfaction. He seemed also much pleased on my telling him that he must certainly be a descendant of Geirrid—a matron who lived in the vicinity soon after the occupation of the island, and was possessed p. 74 of so hospitable a disposition, that she caused her habitation to be erected on the road, so that every traveller was obliged to pass through it, and invited to take some refreshment at a table which she always kept covered on purpose.10 Two or three examples of a similar nature are recorded in the Sagas, which prove that the hospitality so highly celebrated in the Hâvamâl,11 was not a poetic fiction, but a virtue of high repute, and in common practice among the ancient inhabitants of the north.

From Narfeyri I rode in an easterly direction across a low tract which is called Skogarstrand, from the excellent wood which abounded here in former times, but of which scarcely a vestige remains at the present day. It was my intention to have proceeded as far as Snoksdal, but the badness of the weather compelled me, before I got half way, to take shelter at the church of Breidabolstad, where I spent the remainder of the day in a very agreeable manner with the Rev. Mr. Hialltalin, formerly of Saurbær, of whom Sir George Mackenzie has given so favourable a description in his Travels. He possesses a good turn for sacred poetry, and has written a considerable number of theological works, which are still lying by him in manuscript, there not being any opportunity of publishing them. Of these, the most important is a translation of Bastholm’s Jewish History, which would be read with avidity, could it only p. 75 be put into the hands of the natives. Mr. H. is now advancing in years, and with a large family of children combines but a small living; yet he seems uncommonly lively and cheerful in his disposition. At the door of the church, which is extremely small, and in a bad state of repair, I observed a stone of basalt, with an inscription partly Runic and partly Latin; but the letters were so defaced that it was wholly illegible. It bears the date of 1681.

It was from a small island in the vicinity of this place that Eirik the Red set sail, in the year 983, in quest of a continent to the west of Iceland, of which he had received some obscure notice, and, after a short navigation, he discovered Greenland, where he remained three years, exploring the coasts, and giving names to the different places which he visited. The accounts he gave of it on his return had such an effect on his countrymen, that not fewer than five and twenty vessels were fitted out for the new continent, of which, however, only fourteen reached the land, the rest having either been lost at sea, or driven back to Iceland.12

The morning of the 3d prognosticating better weather, I recommenced my journey, but had made but little progress when it again began to rain, which rendered the ride very uncomfortable. The outline of the mountains which stretch in an easterly direction from the Yökul, now disappeared, and gave way to a long extent p. 76 of rocky country, many parts of which exhibited the remains of ancient lavas; while, on the other hand, the Breidafiord, dividing and opening into the Hvamsfiord and Gilsfiord, and the intervening mountains, presented a very bold and picturesque scenery.

Having descended to the shores of the Hvamsfiord, the road, which had been very stony, greatly improved; and became still better, after I had passed the stone which forms the boundary between the syssels of Dala and Snæfellsness. At a short distance from the beach, my guide pointed out to me the site of the Irar‐Budar or Irish Booths, which were occupied in former times by traders from the north of Ireland. As a mercantile station, this was certainly one of the most central and convenient that could be selected; but the shallowness of the bay is supposed to have been the reason why it was abandoned. Many other places on the coasts of Iceland are still known by the same name, which proves that at one period a considerable trade must have been carried on between the two islands. After having crossed with much difficulty a number of deep pools (Ice. pollar) that were filling by the tide, I reached the first houses in Dala Syssel, and, proceeding over the end of a projecting mountain, arrived about six o’clock in the evening at Snoksdal, the abode of a rich peasant, from whom I obtained permission to pitch my tent on a beautiful green spot between the houses and the church. Though p. 77 somewhat slow in his movements, he possessed no small share of dignified manners, and was assiduous in his endeavours to administer to my comfort during my stay at his farm. He was the only peasant that I could not, by any means, prevail on to accept of payment for his services.

The 4th of June, being the Lord’s day, I had an opportunity of attending worship at this place. The congregation was pretty numerous, and manifested much seriousness and piety in the exercises of devotion. The prayers and discourse too of the chaplain savoured of a deeper sense of religion than any I had yet heard on the island. Instead of a few general petitions, pronounced in a cold and uninteresting manner, he offered up a prayer, in which a full and explicit confession was made of sin; its forgiveness implored, in virtue of the atonement of the Mediator; and a full supply of those blessings supplicated, of which himself and his hearers stood in need. The Psalms were taken from the old Psalm‐book; and while the congregation sung an Icelandic translation of one of the early confessions, I almost fancied myself in some Christian church of the fourth or fifth century; or in one of the Syrian churches in India, so interestingly described by the late Dr. Buchanan in his Christian Researches.

1. Sometimes an immense number of whales enter the Breidafiord. About three years ago upwards of 1600 were driven on its southern shores.

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2. The Danes call this place and the bay Grönnefiord, or the Green Frith: whereas the Icelandic appellation literally signifies the Shallow Frith, and is derived from the banks which abound in it.

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3. Cap. 57. and 63.

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4. The narrative of the circumstances connected with this singular transaction is preserved in Eyrbyggia Saga, the substance of which has lately been given to the British public by Walter Scott, Esq. As it will convey to the reader a fair specimen of the Sagas, I shall here insert his translation, only taking the liberty to alter a phrase or two, in order to render it more conformable to the original.

   “While Vermund Miofi, of Biarnarhafn, a harbour in the vicinity, spent a winter with Count Hacon, at that time regent of Norway, there happened to be at the court two of those remarkable champions, called Berserkir, men who, by moral or physical excitation of some kind or other, were wont to work themselves into a state of phrensy, during which they achieved deeds passing human strength, and rushed, without sense of danger, or feeling of pain, upon every species of danger that could be opposed to them. Vermund contracted a sort of friendship with these champions, who, unless when seized with their fits of fury, were not altogether discourteous or evil disposed. But as any contradiction was apt to excite their stormy passions, their company could not be called very safe or commodious. Vermund, however, who now desired to return to Iceland, conceived that the support of the two Berserkir would be of the greatest advantage to him, as they would p. 60enable him to control his brother, who had acted unjustly towards him in regard to his patrimony; and, therefore, when, at his departure, Count Hacon, according to custom, offered him any reasonable boon which he might require, he prayed that he would permit these two champions to accompany him to his native country. The Count assented, but not without shewing him the danger of his request. “Though they have rendered me obedient service,” said Hacon, “they will be reluctant and disobedient stipendiaries to a person of meaner station.” Vermund, however, grasped at the permission of the Count, though reluctantly granted, and was profuse in promises to Halli and Leikner, providing they would accompany him to Iceland. They frankly objected the poverty of the country, yet agreed to go thither, apprising their conductor at the same time, that their friendship would not endure long, if he refused them any boon which it was in his power to grant, and which they might choose to demand. Having finally agreed, they set sail for Iceland, but Vermund soon found reason to repent of his choice, and began to think of transferring his troublesome and ungovernable satellites to his brother Arngrim, who was surnamed Styr, on account of his fierce and quarrelsome disposition. It was no easy matter, however, to prevail upon Styr to accept of the patronage of the Berserkir. In vain Vermund protested that he gifted him with two such champions as would enable him to become an easy victor in every quarrel he might engage in; and that he designed this present as a gage of their fraternal union. Styr expressed his happiness at the prospect of their becoming better friends; but intimated, that he had heard enough of the disposition of these foreign warriors to satisfy him, that they would be rather embarrassing than useful dependents, and was fully determined never to admit them within his family. Vermund was, therefore, obliged to change his tone; to acknowledge the dread in which he stood of the p. 61Berserkir, and request his brother’s advice and assistance to rid him of them. “That,” answered Styr, “is a different proposal. I could never have accepted them as a pledge of favour or friendship; but, to relieve thee from danger and difficulty, I am content to encumber myself with the charge of thine associates.” The next point was to reconcile the Berserkir, (who might resent being transferred, like bondmen, from the one brother to the other,) to this change of masters. The warlike and fierce disposition of Styr, seemed, however, so much more suitable to their own than that of Vermund, that they speedily acquiesced; and accompanying their new patron upon a nocturnal expedition, evinced their strength in breaking to pieces a strong wooden frame or bed, in which his enemy had taken refuge, so that Styr had an opportunity of slaying him.

   “The presumption of Halli, however, soon discomposed their union. The champion cast the eyes of affection on Asdisa, the daughter of his patron, a young, haughty, fiery, and robust damsel, well qualified to captivate the heart of a Berserk. He formally announced to Styr, that he demanded her hand in marriage; that a refusal would be a breach of their friendship; but that if he would accept of his alliance, he and his brother would render him the most powerful man in Iceland. At this unexpected proposal, Styr for a time remained silent, considering how best he might evade the presumptuous demand of this frantic champion; and at length observed, that the friends of his family must be consulted upon his daughter’s establishment. “Three days space,” answered Halli, “will suffice for that purpose; and be mindful that our friendship depends on thine answer.” Next morning, Styr rode to Helgafell, to consult the experience of the Pontiff Snorro. When Snorro learned that he came to ask advice, “Let us ascend,” he said, “the sacred mount, for such counsels as are taken on that holy spot p. 62rarely prove unpropitious.” They remained in deep conference on the mount of Thor until evening, nor did any one know the purpose which they agitated; but what followed sufficiently shews the nature of the counsels suggested upon the holy ground. Styr, so soon as he returned home, announced to Halli his expectation, that since he could not redeem his bride by payment of a sum of money as was usual, he should substitute in lieu thereof, according to ancient right and custom, the performance of some unusual and difficult task. “And what shall that task be?” demanded the suitor.—“Thou shalt form,” said Styr, “a path across the lava to Biarnarhafn, and a fence between my pasture‐grounds and those of my neighbours; also, thou shalt construct a house on this side of the lava for the reception of my flocks, and these tasks accomplished, thou shalt have Asdisa to wife.”—“Though unaccustomed to such servile toil,” replied the Berserk, “I accept of the terms thou hast offered.” And by the assistance of his brother, he accomplished the path required, a work of the most stupendous masculine labour, and erected the bound‐fence, which may be seen at this day; and while they were labouring at the stable for the flocks, Styr caused his servants to construct a subterranean bath, so contrived, that it could on a sudden be deluged with boiling water, and heated to a suffocating degree.

   “The stipulated task being ended, the champions returned to the dwelling of Styr. They were extremely exhausted, as was common with persons of their condition, whose profuse expenditure of strength and spirits induced a proportional degree of relaxation after severe labour. They, therefore, gladly accepted Styr’s proposal, that they should occupy the newly‐constructed bath. When they had entered, their insidious patron caused the trap‐door to be lockaded, and a newly stripped bullock’s skin to be laid on the stair, and then proceeded to pour in scalding water through a window above the stove, so p. 63that the bath was heated to an intolerable pitch. The unfortunate Berserkir endeavoured to break out, and Halli succeeded in forcing the door, but his feet being entangled in the slippery hide, he was stabbed by Styr ere he could make any defence: his brother attempting the entrance, was forced back headlong into the bath, and thus both perished. Styr caused their bodies to be interred in a glen in the lava, close to the road, and of such depth that nothing but the sky was visible from its recesses. Then Styr composed this song concerning his exploit:

   “Synduz mer, sem myndi, Moteflendr Spiota; Ala ekki dælir, El‐herdendum verda. Uggì ek eigi Seggia Ofrgang vìd mik strangan: Nu hefir bilgröndudr branda, Berserkium stad merktan.

   These champions from beyond the main, Of Iceland’s sons I deem’d the bane, Nor fear’d I to endure the harm And frantic fury of their arm; But, conqueror, gave this valley’s gloom To he the grim Berserkir’s tomb.”

   Eyrbyggia Saga, caps. xxv. and xxviii. and Illustrations of Northern Antiquities, p. 489—492.

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5. The same custom obtained in the western islands of Scotland till the end of the seventeenth century. See Martin’s Western Islands, p. 117, London, 1716, 8vo.

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6. The following description of the nature of Scandinavian idolatry, from the pen of Snorro Sturluson, will not only remind the reader of 1 Corinth, viii. and x. 14—33., but shew him the origin of health‐drinking as it is still practised in different countries of Europe:

   “Sigurd, Earl of Lada, was the greatest idolater, as his father Hacon had been before him, and most strenuously kept up all the sacrificial feasts in Thrændalag, in the capacity of the King’s vicegerent. It was an ancient custom, when sacrifice p. 67was to be offered, that the whole community assembled at the temple, and brought with them whatever they needed during the feast. It was also particularly ordained that every man should have ale in his possession. On such occasions, they not only killed all kinds of small cattle, but also horses, and all the blood obtained by this means was called hlaut; the vessels containing it were called hlautbollar, and the instruments of aspersion, hlautteinar. With these they sprinkled all the supporters of the idols, and the walls of the temple both externally and internally, as also the people that were assembled, with the blood of the sacrifices; but the flesh was boiled and used for food. In the middle of the floor of the temple was a fire, over which kettles were suspended, and full cups were borne round the fire to the guests. It was the office of the pontiff, or the master of the feast, to bless the cup and all the meat offered in sacrifice. The first bumper (Icel. full, a full cup) was drunk to Odin, for victory in battle, and the prosperity of his government; the second and third were drunk to Niord and Frey, for peace and good seasons; after which many drank Braga‐full, or the toast of the mighty heroes who had fallen in battle. They also drank a bumper in memory of such of their deceased relations as had distinguished themselves by some great action; to this toast they gave the name of minni.” Saga Haconar Goda, cap. xvi.

   On the introduction of Christianity into the north, the names of Odin, Frey, &c. were laid aside, and the health of Christ and the saints was drunk by the new converts—a custom which was long kept up in these parts of Europe. We are told by Snorro, that when King Svein gave a splendid feast to the Jomsvikinga chiefs, previous to his ascension to the throne, he first of all drank a cup to the memory of his father; after which he proposed the health of Christ, (Crists‐minni,) which they all drank; then the health of St. Michael, &c. Saga af Olafi Tryggvasyni, cap. 39.

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7. This is the mountain which Mr. Hooker confounds with the Helgafell, near Hafnarford, in the Gullbringe Syssel. The same mistake is found in the note to the abstract of the Eyrbyggia Saga, in the Illustrations of Northern Antiquities, p. 478.

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8. “The lands in Zetland, which formerly belonged to the bishop, and which were transferred to the crown, are also called umboth lands.” Edmonstone’s Zetland, vol. i. p. 164, note. Edin. 1809. 8vo.

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9. Domhringr, doom’s‐ring, the ring or circle of judgment.

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10. Eyrbyggia‐Saga, cap. viii.

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11. Stroph. 2, 3, 4.

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12. Landnâmabok, Part 2. cap. xiv. Eyrbyggia Saga, cap. 24.

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