THE WISOONSIN FARMER.



  Do not plow the garden too early, unless you
want extra labor in disposing of the extra
crop of weeds, and the hard lumps of earth on
the approach of hot weather. If the garden
can be arranged so as to plow in strips succes-
sively, as the season advances, the fall grow-
ing season will show the advantage to be very
great.
  Early potatoes are easily started in the
frame; or select some dry, sheltered spot,
spread the seed very thick upon a good com-
post soil, cover one half inch with soil and
two inches with old hay. After two or three
weeks they can easily be transplanted to the
garden.
        F3UIT-GARDEIt AND OnCHARD

  Should now be looked to. and the variety and
extent of planting fully and early decided up-
on. Early planting of gooseberries, currants,
pie-plant and asparagus is essential to com-
plete success. Cuttings an d scions of all kinds
if not before made, should be, early. They
will not bear one half the exposure to wind
and weather they would if cut in autumn;
plant immediately on the opening of spring,
using plenty of rich compost around them and
mulch with rotten straw, or its equal. Cut
back raspberries and blackberries nearly to
the ground before planting, and indeed leave
but little wood above ground on any of the
shrubby fruits. Hill up and mulch after plant-
ing. Thin out all the old canes and cut back
about one-third the new ones for fruiting.
  Pruning of grape vines had better be post-
poned until June. The same with the orchard,
and nursery except a cement be immediately
applied, and if hot, all the better, but cements
will not always prevent the bleeding of fresh
wounds in the early sap-flowing season, before
the leaves appear  In case of taking up trees
and vlnes, they can be prdned safely, as they
usually remain dormant long enough for the
fresh cut to harden before the flow of sap.
  Evergreens, especially If large, are best trans-
planted early, notwithstanding the prevailing
idea. The truth is, there is not as much to
choose in the time of the year, as in the con-
dition of the ground and state of the atmo-



sphere. Undoubtedly, so far as the tree is
concerned, late spring is the worst possible
time to tranplwt them, as the greatest circu-
lation is then in progress. They can be trans-
planted almost any time, by carefully preserv-
ing the small roots, or spongioles, from sun
and wind. Cutting back the tops is as benefi-
cial to an evergreen as an apple tree.
  }Fruit Tree, of all kinds should be lifted ear-
ly, even if not planted out until late. One tree
dug early and well kept is worth two dug just
as the buds burst.
  Do not rely upon the lists of eastern nurse-
rymen for safe planting in the west. Ten ten-
der trees out of a hundred planted will give
the orchard an unsightly appearance, and take
off the profit and satisfaction of planting. The
experience of Western fruit growers has fully
established a successful list.
  Select trees with good roots; and as you are
far more likely to get these on young trees,
order them by all means, unless you can go to
the nursery with your team.  Generally the
balance of account will, at the end of five
years, be largely in favor of the two or three
year old trees, against two years older.
  Cut back before planting most of the last
year's growth, more or less according to the
amount of root.
  In case the trees are much shriveled from
exposure, they can usually be restored by bu-
rying completely under ground for a week or
ten days. The moist earth will gradually bring
them back to the original state; lift and plant
during a moist time; cut such trees back se-
verely.
  Planting.-On this subject we offer a few
brief but "golden hints."
  1st. Select the highest and best drained situa-
tion for an orchard, and of a cool aspect if pos-
sible.
  2d. Prepare the ground by deep plowing,
subsoiling or trenching the whole ground to
the depth of one foot or more, and where the
soil is anyways retentive of water, or sticky
when wet, plow the ground into ridges, one
foot or more in height, and plant apon the ridge.
  3d. Do not dig holes for the trees, but plant
on the surface; mound up to support the tree,
and heavily mulch.           J. C. PLUMB.



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