THE SILK INDUSTRY

steppes.  Sophora Japonica is also used as a
yellow dye.
The weavers buy the silk for the dyer and
weave it on the most primitive of looms. We
visited several weavers at their work in Kokand.
Turning suddenly in at a low doorway in a rough
mud wall, we found ourselves in a fair-sized room
where a number of weavers sat at work. The
mud walls bristled with the straw of which they
were partially composed, and the weavers' garments
were ragged and dirty. What a strange contrast
the rich, soft silk upon the looms presented to its
miserable surroundings!  Silk is not always a
sign of luxury or wealth in Turkestan.  I can
see as I write the figure of one of the stalwart
countrymen who ferried us across the Syr Daria,
miles away from any town or village. His outer
garment was in rags and half covered with mud,
but as he worked away at the rope we could see
that he wore beneath this a tunic of the finest silk,
fine, I would add, in quality, for the thread of
Turkestan silk is much coarser than that of China
and Japan, and consequently stands a far greater
amount of wear. The Russians have proved this
for themselves; gentlemen find it a real economy
to indulge in the luxury of silken shirts, for a piece
of white silk costing forty-five shillings makes them
six European shirts which "will wear for ever";
and ladies can line all their dresses with silk,