THE HERITAGE OF DRESS 
 
 
  The word pallium has been applied to a number of 
garments in the past, many of which were of a flow- 
ing character, and some writers have seen in the 
archbishop's pall a small vestige of what was once 
an ample vestment. Early pictures, however, show 
the pall looped round the shoulders with one end 
hanging in front of the body and one behind. Mr. 
Macalister says that it was difficult sometimes to dis- 
tinguish between it and the stole, and that the next 
step in its evolution was to knot the free ends to the 
loops as shown in the eighth, ninth, and tenth 
centuries. From this it was but an easy step to the 
final form which consists of an oval loop with a long 
tail pendent from each of its ends, so that when it is 
worn on the person it makes a capital "Y" on the 
back and another on the chest. It should be pointed 
out that the pall must not be confounded with the 
apparel of the chasuble called the orphrey, which also 
has a "Y " shape. 
  In connection with the manufacture of the pall 
there are some interesting proceedings. It is made 
from the wool of two lambs, and they are solemnly 
blessed on Saint Agnes's day in the church dedi- 
cated in the name of that saint at Rome. The 
animals are chosen with special reference to their 
whiteness and goodness, and are carried into Rome 
in separate baskets, which are slung over a horse's 
back. 
  On the way to the church the Pope makes the sign 
 
 
196