1. Introduction : pilgrimage (at the Full Moon) -- 2. Autobiography of a Goddess -- 3. Parasurama creates the chaundke -- 4. Women chaundke players on the Maharashtra/Karnataka border -- 5. Songs at Renuka/Yellamma's hill temple -- 6. Dance of the Devidasas -- 7. Arnold Bake's 1938 recording in 1999 -- 8. Alms for the Goddess -- 9. A play on alms with Cawandga trio -- 10. The oracle speaks -- 11. Widow's bangle breaking ritual -- 12. Baby-dropping and firewalking rituals -- 13. Voices of Jagwalis, Devidasis, Devidasas, Jogtas, Jogas, Jogtis, Jogappas, Pujaris. I). Life of Shantabai Jagwali. II). Life of Ishvara Jogappa, Sangita Jogti. III). Life of Ananda Rao Birenje, Pujari. IV) Life of Ramaa Joga 'Devidasa' -- 14. Songs of protest from within the tradition -- 15. Death of a music? -- 16. The Goddess speaks on modernity and the future -- 17. Credits and acknowledgements