Includes bibliographical references (pages 271-296).
pt. 1. Consumption -- 1. Why milk -- 2. The perfect food story -- 3. Why not mother : the rise of cow's milk as infant food in nineteenth-century America -- 4. The milk question : perfecting food as urban reform -- 5. Perfect food, perfect bodies -- pt. 2. Production -- 6. Perfect farming : the industrial vision of dairying -- 7. The less perfect story : diversity and farming strategies -- 8. Crisis : the "border-line" problem -- 9. Alternative visions of dairying : productivism and producerism in New York, Wisconsin, and California -- 10. The end of perfection